Discussions
Have to try 2S 1020 or 1023motors with 3" (75mm) propellers! Let's go to build it! :)
something like this : https://rotorbuilds.com/build/27253
Bro cooked and made engineering art. That is a beautiful frame my guy and even more impressive blackbox charts. Looking forward to seeing flights!
That motor is lookin mint 😵💫
Super clean build!
Less zip than your 3.5? Are you running the 1750kv version of those motors?
Ha - I am interested in testing all this tbh. Still very new to the hobby and I assumed that you could match prop pitch to the kv for max thrust - which I linked more to stator size in my head. I have just ordered a set of 2020kv with an AOS5R frame - because of course I needed one :D . I can see myself adding some of those racewire boards and test different motor configs on both drones :)
Clean build, the weight would be my only concern. Those motors are great for freestyle builds, but you want the lightest everything for 1s 18650 builds as they tend to be heavy from get go. The lightest 1202.5 motors I have found are the flywoo with the fractal(happymodel) coming in a very close second and having curved magnets, though I'm not sure how much they help.I ensured motor wire length was the same when comparing weights. I'm a fan of all things Fractal, but the wingman frame is heavier than I'd like. The Walksnail Nano you are running is the same VTX as their 1s lite, so you can remove the metal case and drop quite a bit of weight, though it will heat up faster when not airborne so you'll want to power it down while locking satellites as Dom suggested. The camera is also the same as the 1s lite, but has a heavier case and longer mipi cable, good news here is it bolts on without printing an adapter. Speaking of hardware, some could potentially be replaced by Nylon, PEEK, Titanium or aluminum depeneding on how far you wish you go literally and financially.
Very nice and creative!! kudos!! My fingers are itching and wonder how that would fly/feel as I fly both LOS and FPV
**please note- these motors are extremely high speed. They may not last as long as other motors, and although our testing has shown no difference in durability compared to other 702s, we do not recommend this product.
Even the manufacture doesnt recommend these motors lol. You get any sort of flight time from them?
Since cinematic flight is the goal here, I think you could downgrade your motors to 23000kv, and save these motor for a crazy acro capable walksnail whoop (one that has a bit more protection for that WS gear!!). Despite what Ciotti says, you can take off and fly absolutely fine on the lower kv, and you can enjoy a minute longer flight times. I've built a few of these little Walksnail whoops now, with various kv and i always go back to the lowest KV whoop because it can do almost all the same things... but flies for so much longer.
Hey there, can you take a measurement for me? Need to know the front black aluminum camera mount hole wide from side to side? Should be about 26mm but think it should be a bit wider can you do that for me? Would appreciate the help. Thanks for your time
Hey could you do a tutorial video on how to assemble this? That would be awesome! Also would it work using a Avatar Moonlight?
What's the all up weight onI this? And what's it weight without gopro and lipo? Appreciate it mate.
Sorry for the delay in replying, I haven't been on here in a bit. The all up weight is 750g ish, depending on the battery I'm flying. 770g with a heavier pack. It's about 430g with everything but the actual battery and GoPro (hardware, straps, etc included). I wasn't being hugely careful on weight, I could probably get it down a bit more with some more planning on wire routing, etc to shorten wires.
Your build inspirited me to make a similar one. Thank you!
NONO not build like this with that motors.... motor is very good quality but totaly useless! I was using this 1207/6000KV motors into different setup problem is? it is over.... very powerful and extremely hungry! 3" or 2,5" 2 minutes flytime! 2" is OK but more better less weight motors 1207=10gramm 1203 1104 1105 (5-7gramm) is more better for this frame.....
Very nice build! I have Pavo20 with normal O3 and I'm using it for slow indoor flights. It's nice to see that it can handle 720mah easily. I'm actually considering going for the GAONENG GNB LiHV 3S 11.4V 850mAh 60C as it can also fit in the tray but I'm not sure if it's bad that it has only 60C discharge. What do you think?
The only way to find out is to test it. I alway take the C ratings with a grain of salt... meaning it is not always correct. How do you plan to use these packs, slow cruising, or fast free style? You might be okay if you plan to fly it slow and keep the amp draw low. Also keep in mind, I have used higher C rating batteries that has more voltage sag than a lower C rating battery. For example, I have a set of GNB 1100mah 130C 6s that weighs and sags more, less capacity than a GNB 1000mah 100C lipos. So, once again, the only way to find out is to try it out. I personally have not tried that specific lipo before, so I can not approve or disapprove of it. I have tried a few different flavors of the GNB 720mah lipos and they all have been excellent in power and low weight. I typically do not like HV charging my lipos, because it "seems" to degrade my batteries faster.
thanks, that makes sense. I wouldn't want to sacrifice the longevity of the batteries. In this case I'll stick to GNB 660mah LiPO. With a calm flight I'm getting around 6 minutes flight. Curious if stripping the O3 unit would make it much longer. I'm using it also with 5 blade props as it's much quieter but maybe it probably drains the battery more.
Hi ! Nice build, I just build the AOS cine35 aswell and love it so much ! woud you be able to share where I can find the O3 TPU ? Looks supper cool on it! Thanks you
I usually share all the 3D printed parts on my build list, just in case you missed it, here is a link to the parts on thingiverse:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5993570
very random thought that came up in my mind but have you tried inducing slight tension on those supporting diagonal pieces? Like have a slight bend so that the whole drone is in a constant state of tension - thus becoming a little more rigid. I don't know if it'll hold up better but when I was working with carbon fiber tubes for micro drones, one of the first designs utilized carbon fiber rods that were in parallel of each other but bent slightly at the tips. That was a good design but the limitation was 3D printing parts isn't good for structural parts.
Thank for your comment.
As you can see in the CAD picture, the insertion ends of the diagonal (vertical) plates to the horizontal plate are slightly shorter than the depth of the slot. Therefore, I believe that when secured with screws, the diagonal (vertical) plates will have sufficient tension for the frame strength. Anyway, carbon plates are very strong against the force parallel to them, even if they are thin.