Discussions
Be careful using a 4 in 1 for Wing motors like that. typically people don't do it because the long wires to the motors either create large electrical noise or it's hard on the motors or something. I can't remember the details but I know it's normally avoided for a significant reason. but the right up in the build looks great. my Altus is on the way so this will be my reference guide for putting it together
I am partway through building a Flywoo explorer lr4, I had not seen the Atlas until now. I wish I had spotted the Atlas earlier as I prefer it. I am also using the SpeedyBee AIO however it will not fit in the front on the explorer unless I rotate it 45deg so I've put it in the rear with my VTX at the front!
The camera mounts look better on the Flyfish and more room for the FC. Although the explorer frame is a little lighter.
You could have got away with a shorter frame (lighter) as you only need one stack but probably such a frame doesn't exist.
4S li-ion pack is very heavy how long flight time do you get?
Have you tried or thought about bi-blades?
Why not rotate the FC 45 degrees on the Flywoo? I think it's a strange move to put an FC in the rear. The Flywoo is undoubtedly a good machine, and the assembled price is attractive, but I find it underpowered in 4s with the 2750 KV.
My 4s battery weighs 195g, which is heavy, but even with the power limitation, the quad is very enjoyable in freestyle and "on rails."
I manage to fly for over 23 minutes without freestyle or long-range (trying RTHs in the field, for example, but this is the maximum endurance flight).
My average flight time is 12-13 minutes in freestyle, over 15-16 minutes cruising with friends in airplanes, which sometimes represents over 9 km of distance traveled.
The funniest thing is that I also used 3s 18650 P30B batteries, which saves 45g on the battery. The drone consumes less power, and I achieve the same flight time while being a little more agile in freestyle. Both batteries work very well on this 4-inch drone.
On your Explorer, you can try different batteries; it's interesting to find what you like best.
Personally, I stick with 1404 3800KV because they are powerful and light. I adjust the "Vbat sag compensation" with automatic PID profiles depending on the battery so as not to exceed 36A under any circumstances (100%/4s, 25%/3s).
I tried the two-bladed ones on my first ATLAS, but from memory, the flight time wasn't really better, at the expense of more jello!
Super fun! In the world of aircraft that light grams REALLY matter. The batteries you are using are all overweight for that weight bracket, try some in the 450-650mah size range, you will REALLY feel the difference! I don't know your flight style, so I don;t know if you will like it. It will become MUCH more agile and responsive to your inputs (as well as faster). MAYBE that sounds good to you. You may be in a place where that all sounds bad, and if so we can just pretend I didn't say anything :)
Thanks for your advice regarding using smaller lipo's, currently I am enjoying the long flight times I get with the larger cells especially the 1100's.
When my skills improve I will definitely experiment with smaller cells. I am new to FPV, only recently started flying Acro and still can't fly reliably with a camera angle anything greater then 20deg.
Hello, do you still have the stls for the camera and antenna mount? im planning on building a 2s 2.5 inch drone with this frame.
very interested in this build! has anyone made a digital version? just curious with the standoff height would it be possible?
Thanks ! It is shipped with taller 12mm standoffs and does fits Hdzero/Walksnail whoop style digital VTXs in that configuration, check the starter pack for more details : https://en.guide.kayou-frames.com/starter-pack/kayoumini-2-5. There's plenty of Digital Kayoumini builds shared on Kayou Frames Discord Server aswell : https://discord.com/invite/Rfds4eWwRn
hi this is an amazing build XD. I was just wondering, what was the reason behind using 2850KV with 6S? because in the spec sheet there is no data on 6S usage with the rated kv. Any concerns of motors overheating?
Hi, actually the one and only reason for 2850 kv is being able to use both 4s and 6s packs – for this size of prop 2850 kv is some kind of average, and some motors with same KV (1604 2850kv t-motor) are already rated as suitable for 4-6s.
Also the stator diameter on this motors is pretty big (23mm) for better heat distribution – so they might just get a little warm after strong acro, but never overheat
I love your enthusiasm, and I am vicariously happy for you in your film work. Camera protection becomes difficult with the servo setup, but putting the vtx outside the carbon and paying no heed at all to cam protection is not a finished design, so I look forward to your work (please post your excellent designs!).
Heardle is a music guessing game that has taken the internet by storm. I like how it challenges my knowledge of popular songs while keeping the experience quick and engaging. Every day, a new song appears, and the thrill of identifying it in just a few seconds makes it addictive.
The addition of lateral carbon motor supports to accommodate the new 131mm sprunki wheelbase is a great modification. This should enhance stability and help maintain the structural integrity of the copter during flight.
You can definitely tell by reworking the angle that the motors are further apart, it stays in the air much better, and flies more stable. 👍 Unfortunately, a week ago, it crashed into a hill so hard that 50 percent of the parts were damaged. But I've already reordered everything I need to redo the conversion, as I'm very happy with the setup.
where did you mount the receiver? I can't find it in the pics
Love it! I have one of these too, but my build is digital (Walksnail 1s lite). If you use batteries with leads, you don't need to cut off the camera mount ears- my packs are the same size, but native 2s with XT30. Other differences: I'm running 1103 1100kv, will probably replace with RCInpower 1203 8000kv when the time comes- friends have said the 1202.5 are fragile in comparison; and my AIO is JHEMCU f435 (AT Betaflight) 1-2s 12A, with built in UART ELRS, I can't recommend it highly enough. However- it's digital only, no OSD chip. Cheap, tough, great performance... I've never had a bad FC from JHEMCU. I had one of those Darwin 1-3s on another build but it caught fire after a fairly gentle crash and burned everything else apart from the battery, which i was able to get off in time :-)
Hi thanks for the feedback ^^ i have been thinking of replacing my battery inventory with 2S lipos and paired with the Vifly Toothstor since i really like charging on the go XD. Quick question for the 8000kv, do u plan on using with 3s? bc i feel like 16000rpm (on 2S) might be for long cruise flights. additionally i moved onto digital now (mainly bc my fatshark broke...rip) so i have a dji G2 and i plan on getting the O4 lite :)
how is the battery compared to the stock frame?
This is a great modification for the O4 lite camera! I purchased Flywoo's wide lens converters. Modifying the O4 lite camera was easy and safe, but they were too big and heavy. I would like to modify the lens of the O4 lite camera while avoiding the risk of exposure to volatile gases from the adhesive. Do you think it is possible to attach the O3 lens to the O4 lite sensor unit without using adhesive? Thank you in advance.
hi.
of course you can. no one forbids using bolts or screws, you just need to develop a mounting model.
but I don't think you need to worry so much about the glue vapor, you can glue my adapter with the lens unscrewed. if this worries you too much, you can carefully glue the sensor first, but there is a risk of damaging it or getting it dirty.
you can apply glue only on the outside, that's also an option.
when I glued it, I applied a very small amount of B7000 glue along the adapter contour, gave it a minute and only then glued it.
Any Video of X8?
check out on youtube. Just replace any video link with this watch?v=_h45isEvdko