You powered the FC via the 5v BEC, but what about the vbat for monitoring the voltage?
Great catch there Wiffles and an excellent question.
I am swapping the PDB XT60 with the XPW. It has a true sensor. Right now the FC is using some funky algorithm to calculation since I'm feeding the FC power via the J11 5v pin. It's obviously not perfect but it's close enough for freestyle flying, coupled with a timer.
It's not sexy but it works until I swap the PDB xt out for the XPW.
Thanks for asking!
I reason I mention it is I used the Omnibus on my last build and made the mistake of powering the FC with the 12v BEC. When I took it out to fly I started to wonder why my OSD always indicated 11.8v :|
Interesting. Mine moves/depletes. I'm almost certain, but I don't watch it like a hawk as I'm too busy trying to avoid cutting my own head off.
I'll pay really close attention tomorrow. Also, I'll alter the build the moment I swap out PDB's. I do t want to confuse anyone or give them unreasonable expectations.
Well if you're feeding the true battery voltage to the board then you'll get an accurate reading, but if you filter the battery it'll stay at the voltage the BEC assigns it to.
Hey! Love this. What about the battery? Also for the battery connector to the FC (Emax STM32F303 F3) what I have to buy?
I am using 2S batteries with JST connectors in the 300 to 500 mah range with this build. For the JST connector you would need to solder something like that http://www.banggood.com/Amass-JST-Parallel-Line-60-Core-20AWG-Extension-Cable-10cm-p-1011808.html?rmmds=search to the board.
Whay batteries did you use i would like to build this and what osd or did you not use one
Does the board have a connector specifically for those batteries?
The kit ships with a connector and it solders right up.
I see, so I can use my own connector if I want. I was looking at this battery to avoid buying from HK.
You can, but use the JST-PH connector that comes with the kit, it saves weight! You can score these from Banggood: http://www.banggood.com/Giant-Power-2S-7_4V-450mAh-50C-Lipo-Battery-for-E-flite-Blade-130X-p-1077543.html
Thank you! That's perfect.
I'd look around some of the more current builds for part ideas. These parts are rather outdated.
Thanks for looking- made a lot of adjustments and added extras
Any particular reason you want that frame? Personally, I'd avoid Hobbyking as they haven't been stocking very modern parts lately. Not to mention their shipping rates are high. Those motors have too high of a kv rating for a first build. There's a good chance you could kill some batteries if you use the wrong props.. I'd go for the Emax RS2205S 2300kv motors to start as they're proven and relatively inexpensive. I think I saw them on sale for $15 a piece the other day. The ESCs are good, but you might want to consider a 4-in-1 to save a little work during the build process. If you're already ordering from Banggood just get the Foxeer HS1177 from them rather than Surveilzone. Also, I'd also stay away from those batteries. They're only 30C and not very good. At the very least get some Tattu 1300mah 70C packs. I've heard the Infinitiy 4S graphenes at Banggood are pretty good too.
I made changes per your suggestions and found a frame on banggood. I just kinds like the form factor and they seem pretty easy to build on size wise without being huge. I'm coming in a little over budget, really wanted $500 to be max, but I guess I should take in to consideration that I have to purchase the goggles and charger up front for now.
How many batteries do you suggest to have a once? The ones you suggested were definitely better but brought my total cost up a bit so only added 1 spare. I don't mind purchasing extras later.
Get the motors here for a far better price. I don't know anything about the frame you picked, so I'd probably go with something that's proven like the MartianⅡ 220. Check the builds there to see how it looks. It's a similar style to what you've chosen. I think you can find batteries for less if you shop around. I managed to buy some 4S Tattu 1300mah for $21 a piece on eBay. You'd be fine with 2 or 3 batteries to start. Also, I'm not sure if that receiver is compatible with that radio. Flysky and Frsky are different. You might also want to check if that charger needs a power supply.
And to shave just a couple dollars off I'd get this flight controller. It has a build in 5v BEC and OSD which is great for reporting your voltage back to your headset.
BTW, that transmitter comes with a receiver, so you don't even need to buy one.
Good call on that frame, plus it comes with a PDB so I can cross the one I had off the list.
I'm confused about the receiver/transmitter, I'm going to do some research specifically on that topic.
The transmitter is the controller you use to manipulate the craft. The receiver is just a little board with an antenna to receive the radio signals. It wires up to the flight controller to relay the commands you send to the craft.
But you still need an extra antenna? I'm confused by some builds I see on here have an antenna included in their build and some times not. The Eachine ET526 transmitter I have comes with an antenna.
edit: good call on that other flight controller by the way, I just learned about OSDs and having a built it one sounds awesome.
We're talking about two different things. There is the control TX/RX and the video TX/RX. Your quad sends a video signal (TX) to your headset (RX) and your transmitter (TX) sends a signal to your quad (RX). The antenna that comes with the ET526 is a throw-away antenna. I recommend the Foxeer antennas over the Aomways, but those would work just as well. I just think the Foxeers are a bit better protected and look better. You just need to make sure you match the antenna to the VTX (RP-SMA or SMA). I'd get two antennas so you can use the same one on your headset.
Some people include the RX for the transmitter in their builds and some do not. That really depends on your transmitter. For example you'd need a DSM RX if you use a Spektrum transmitter and you need an Frsky RX if you're flying with a Taranis. Since you've chosen the Flysky you need a Flysky RX. They all use different protocols and the choice of transmitter is personal.
My control TX/RX: TX is the Flysky and the RX comes with it, that's going to take care of controlling the quad
My video TX/RX: TX is the Eachine 526 and the RX is the goggles which are the Eachine EV800 goggles. And you're saying that I should get 2 of the same antennas to put on the TX and the goggles.
Correct! I'd get a pair of these to put on both your ET526 and your EV800. The ET526 uses an SMA connector and the EV800 uses an RP-SMA, so you would need one of each.
Do you have soldering experience? This will require a lot of patience and dexterity. Watch lots of build videos and research how to wire up each component, particularly the FC.
Yes, I do actually! Soldering is the part I am the least worried about honestly.
Great! Just do your research and plan thoroughly. For example the included PDB doesn't do voltage filtering, so if you power your VTX and camera straight from the battery via the FC you may have subtle lines in the video as you throttle due to voltage fluctuations from the ESCs. You can use the RAM pins on the board and a 12v Pololu to filter the voltage or you can use a different PDB with a 12v BEC included. Just make sure you connect your battery voltage to the FC vbat so the OSD can know the remaining voltage of your battery.
I chose a Matek XT60 for a PDB. Thoughts?
I'd like to optimize video quality like you mentioned and also all the videos I've watched in preparation have worked on boards that look like the Matek, not the one with the frame. I feel like that's the safer way to go for my first build.
That should do the trick, but don't solder the XT60 connector directly to the board. It might snap when you unplug your battery. Make sure you've got some wire that's the same gauge as the battery leads and give yourself a few cm of wire from the PDB.
Daaaaamn! Turned out slick. Does it fly any differently? Or about the same?
Flies about the same except for clearing even smaller gaps
Interesting concept. I think the 20mm boards would look nice considering how narrow the Goby is. How would you mount them though? Zeal or drill some holes?
While I would love to go with the smaller boards because I agree with you that it will look nicer, I am still not completely sure. Just looked up Zeal and that stuff looks pretty promising. My original plan was to drill. I changed some stuff around, but that's all subject to go back to what I had earlier
Zeal is great for this. I used it on my old F450 build and that stuff really sticks. It's the ultimate in vibration dampening as well. You'd probably want to use normal standoffs to keep the boards together though.
What other parts would I need to build this? It's my first build.
Goggles or a headset of some kind, a radio and rx, some batteries, a charger, and some props
How do you like that telemetry receiver? I'm curious how Spektrum handles the data. Can the TX speak your RSSI and voltage/current in real time?
This isn't too intimidating to fly indoors?
It's pretty fast, but you can definitely fly it indoors! A bigger house helps, it's not as much fun in my 2 bedroom condo.
So a tad more power than a whoop, but not as intimidating as a 3".
Is that exposed wire on your battery there?
Doubles voltage with the extra oxygen.
Hah, I saw this comment out of context in my email and had no idea what you were talking about :)
So you've gone full 6S? Do you still go back down to 5S and 4S at times, or are you fully converted?
hey this build is 6s because 6s need different tuning but i have 2 other build on 4s and they are prety fast but 6s is just awsomee
How hard would you say 6S is to get used to? Is it a huge jump in skill needed?
6s is really i huge step i would not go from 4 to 5s is waste of cash but 4 to 6s is really a must if you ant tu upgrad.... If you already control the 4s why not go to 6s :D
I'm curious, how did you mount your FC?
i posted some more pics. the FC is mounted on standoffs that are sandwiched inside the frame and I glued those standoffs to the bottom part of the main frame.
I figured it had to require a hacky solution. I was thinking mounting it on double sided tape or something like zeal might work as well. How does it perform? Got any DVR footage?
yeah with the standoffs it sits tight in there. but double sided tape would have worked as well. So far I have done only a couple of indoor flights ... outside its too rainy and snowy. But performance is really promising. Can't wait to give it a run outside!
Do you think a 4-in-1 and FC would fit between there? How tall are the standoffs? Also, do you think this camera would fit between the plates up front?
Happen to have one of those camera. I don't think it will work without cutting down the props, which I would not do. Will post an image for size comparison. I rather plan to cut down something like the green 3inch props in the picture a bit and fit it on the quad later on.
The standoffs are 8mm. You can't use anything that is much taller with propellers of this size. A small 4in1 could work. Maybe you would have to remove the white socket on the pico FC or go with the tinier emax FC.
Yeah, it looks a tad too tall, but maybe if it was rested at an angle between the plates with the antenna going through one of those holes on the top plate. Do you think 10mm standoffs would leave enough room for the props?
There is roughly 2.5mm left between the top plate screws and the ladybird props. So 10 mm will become a really close thing. My camera bends the thin top plate a bit upwards so at the very front it is already more than 8mm. Maybe you could widen the front-hole in the bottom plate a bit such that you can sink the camera down like in my build. Combined with an angled camera this might work.
a small dvr recording from the first test flight:
a lot of fun my fingers are still freezing though :D Flight times could be a bit longer but I guess they will be when it gets warmer.
Looks like some pretty decent speed for a 2S. Had any bad crashes yet? I'm concerned about the durability of the frame with those motors.
no crashes yet. The frame is 2mm and feels like it should be able take some considering the overall weight of only 60 to 70 grams including the battery. If not then I'll order another one or try something more expensive like this one http://hoverbot.io/
I was looking at the Hoverbot as well. It looks like a nice frame, but it does come at a cost compare to this one.
Yes. The Hoverbot is cleaner to build with the frame being designed for these motors, e.g., more space for ESCs on top and matching standoffs for the flight controller. The price of the China frame is tempting though... if you don't mind some tinkering. I also like the very low profile of my build better with the camera in the front.
Love how you braided the motor wires...maybe you could leave a little showing? Other than that, a really clean build!
Why did you give me such a great tip LOL? I'll redo the tape this week. Thanks
Excellent work for a first build man! Looks pretty clean. I'd love to see some more pics.
It's pretty damn amazing the gear we can buy now for $420. This would be great to save and share with other new builders. Thanks!
I cloned the build but switched out a lot of parts. You can find the original build on their featured section. Thanks
Have you flown a real, brand name Inductrix? How would you say they compare?
Parts haven't arrived yet, I'll let you know how they compare once I fly it! I have flown an Inductrix with the RTF package remote, Spektrum DX6 and DX6i - and I've flown the stock setup as well as with an EF-01 cam on it - and LOVED it! Can't wait to see what stronger motors and a lighter camera do for performance on the f3 flight controller. It was already butter flying the stock inductrix, I have a feeling this build will be far superior...!
Dang man! Looking nice and clean! Have you flown a fully kiss'd quad before?
Nope, this is my first one and I love it. My last quad was a Naze32 running Betaflight.
So you've flown it? Which firmware you running? Try dshot yet?
Sure have! Just posted a video. I believe it's the latest 1.03, and yes, with D-shot. This thing is a blast to fly, and so so smooth on default KISS pids.
Awesome man. I just upgraded to the latest dshot build last night, had a few test packs today, and I think my mid-throttle oscillation issue is much better. Hopefully I don't hit any kiss-beta-bugs, but so far so good man!
Clean man! And I love the way the Kiss special connector can actually be used for something :P
Dang! I gotta get me some of them dickbutt motors. I hear they're the best!