By erikvanschaik on Jul 14, 2018This is my 1st drone build after having an Eachine Racer250. I desired a tank after some repairs on the former frame.
F1 cam is chosen to match my Eachine GoggleTwo (hd screen) and shows no pixelation issues unlike the Runcam Eagle2 showed.
Matek Backled light needed to relocate the beeper to the side of the cage. Cage width needed to be widened with additional spacers (stock spacers are way to short). Cap is located at the original bullet proof antenna location. Motor leds used to support the motor mounting bolts instead of rivets to prevent wear on the HDPE frame. VTX is placed in the cage for better heat waste. for this reason the original Hlgrc F440 stack I used is discarted to prevent heat build up in the frame by 4-1 ESC and possible thermal shut down which happened on the BEC of this stack. Raptors are used instead chosen after a nice review by Drone Mesh. All 20 leds Disarm (red) and Armed (white).
Still on a learning curve for freestyle and made some full throttle impacts already. Only the props do break. I guess this is one route to make mastering a drone repair and cost effective. It has been build to be my main flyer for a few seasons. All Wires build in the frame to reduce cut off wire repairs and prevent a walk of shame from the field to the repair shop!
Yes these frames are a hassle to assemble (all hardware internal) but it should cancel out repairs to nihil.
An other pro is this frame is easy to locate on the field unlike the carbon frames. The weight penalty isn't an issue for freestyle/recreative/learning flying.
Next project is a Tomoquads Sidewinder 2.5" for diversity in my model range and flying spots.
Part not listed:
http://www.mateksys.com/?portfolio=2812-bh
Hey man, thats a good looking ragge build.