Discussions
Update ..
1) Got sick of my Runcam Split mini ... keep going with the Swift as it has the better picture, consumes less power and the split PCB is hard to install. So no HD footage for now :-(
2) I already have ripped two micro axii antennas (the second one after 3 minutes using it after I have replaced the first one) in both cases the head of of the antenna has been tangled during a crash and then destroyed because of the resulting high forces. The first one in high gras the second one in a tree. Now I'm using the linear antenna which came with the vtx and have to wait for further spares.
3) Although I have a lot 3S 850 Batteries I will switch to 4S .. I have tested 4S 650 and 850:
3S 850: 80g, Approx 4:30 flight time
4S 650: 70g, Not more then 3:30 flight time
4S 850: 110g, Approx 5:30 flight time
The 4S 850 gave me imho better freestyle performance as it has less voltage drop compared to the 3S 650. I also like that the quad has more momentum in those swings over trees. Beside of that I think it fly's more stable with the extra wight. Anyway .. 3S is ok to get used to the quad, 4S is WAY more fun .. So I will switch over to 4S 850 R-Line batteries.
My conclusion .. go with 4S and use a throttle curve the power scares you to much, don't use the micro axii antennas as they are not very robust and HD footage is not everything.
Well... I'll say it: this is a very complex first build (by yourself if I understand it). That looks to be a pretty industrial frame design and the components should never let you down, especially your video (which is kinda important). I give you the advice I would give all novice builders: start building your next today. You don't have to get it finished any time soon, but I have all of my quads and that is because I do not have to fly one versus another. I fly them all. Sure I wreck sometimes, and I fix or rebuild those quads. It is nice to have a monument to your craft. I call it a "testament to my love of the sport". I am never not building a quad. Fly when it's nice and when its rainy.... go build. But for now: congratulations.
If you're going for pure speed, you can't beat the APC 5045 bullnose or the APC 5260. Nobody believes me til they try them. I would lean more towards the 5045 with that high kv motor, but you might as well try both, right?
Nice! That MAVLink LED controller is really neat, I had no idea such a thing even existed!
I started to build my own MAVLink LED controller with an Arduino Mini, but then I found the "elechawk" controller and purchased from AliExpress. It works great but only controls up to 4 LEDs per its 6 channels (came with 2 LEDs per channel)...saved me a ton of time! For max number of LEDs, you must power it from an external 5V source (not the flight controller) because max current demand would be 60mA x 24 LEDs = 1.4A You can wire it to the TX only from your telemetry port to the RX on the LED contrller (the controller dosen't need to send data back to the flight controller). It also comes with software and a TTL to USB adapter for configuring the LED colors and the control channel; if you want to be able to turn on/off from your transmitter.
QUESTION: If prop speed were so critical to the performance of the craft. Why not use EDF's inStead of normal motors / props?
When does it stop being a quadcopter and become a something else ;
edfs only work when airflow is axcial and the fan is usually buried deep in the body where airflow is controlled
Keep in mind the airframe provides the lift.edit
anyhow Ive already started s challenge on a lower tehc levell than QuadStar If yo care to look .
We can bitch at eachother or build something.
I know what im going to do
does this frame come in 5 in
Hello, this frame is produced by Rotorama in Czech Republic. They have similar frames for 5" - Mefisto V2 and Samurai V2 (depend if you want 30/20mm stack and mini/micro camera). They website is also in english and they ship internatioal to Europe. If you are from USA im not sure, you need to ask. You can check their frames here is english version of their site: https://www.rotorama.com/ramy
Hey Whiffles, this is the 3rd FPV drone i'm planning to build, I have some rookie questions before ordering everything:
-Camera: order 1.66mm or 2.1mm? and what is ND filter? is it neccessery? searched some comments and someone recommended not to take the filter so it will fit right.
-F4 V5PRO MMCX to SMA / RP-SMA Antenna Pigtail Cable: buy RP-SMA or SMA?
-Pagoda 3B Antenna: buy RHCP or LHCP? inner hole or needle?
-Hardware: the screws you offered is sufficient for this build? I saw you wrote 18-20mm screws and I saw in those kits only 20mm is it enough?
Thanks for your help.
Watched it right now, great video and would be very helpful to me in the future, by the way what is the white pen you are using before soldering?
The only problem was identifying which type of parts to buy but you answered my questions, just want to make sure (sorry for bothering you so much), pagoda 3b I should order inner hole RHCP? and SMA pigtail that should fit to it?
Thanks!
That's a flux pen. It's for preparing your pads for solder. It also helps prevent the solder from sticking to your iron. I added it to the Misc Supplies section.
If you get the same VTX I listed then get the "inner hole" RHCP antenna. That will work with the included RP-SMA pigtail. The reason I mentioned an SMA pigtail is because I happened to have the SMA (needle) antenna.
Sweet color scheme. Link to the micro camera adapter?
thanks! got it from bmc3d. here's the link https://bmc3d.co/collections/marmotte-accessories/products/armattan-marmotte-micro-camera-mount
Great build! Thanks for the detailed photos and info. I've started my build based on the same frame. The arms are two different lengths. I think the shorter arms are supposed to go on the rear where the connection point is about 1" longer than the front (so all arms will effectively be the same length). That way, all arms are the same distance from the center point of the frame. Some pictures from the manufacturer have the short arms on the front and some have the shrot arms on the rear. I guess ultimately it doesn't really matter because the frame folds with either configuration and it depends on where you locate the center of gravity. But, if you want the arms to be the same length from the center, the long arms should be on the front (shorter frame front) and the short arms should be on the back (longer frame rear).
I finally posted my build (https://rotorbuilds.com/build/18468) and have made it past the maiden. It flies great!! Thanks again for sharing your build -- it really helped.
this thing is PACKED
Excelllent choice of words! Yeah, I forgot to take a picture just before I got all the wiring harnesses in place before buttoning it up. Next time I have it apart, I'll snap another pic of the guts. Besides the four huge ESCs and the power management board, I had to squeeze two additional BECs (12V and 5V), a Mavlink LED controller, a remote switch, a power filter, etc. Tight fit, but the frame has a ton of space inside. Thanks for the comment and like.
What LEDS?
You need to get the soldering iron much hotter and possibly use some flux as those solder joints are rather messy and could lead to problems. The joints should be nice shiny balls around the joints. Otherwise it's a lovely build.
Great photos! I'd work on your soldering though. Do you have a flux pen? Those work great to help the solder flow over the wire. I also feel like you don't have quite enough solder on your pads before you add the wire.