Discussions
I don't have any uploading tips but I wanted to say thanks for sharing your thoughts. I've had the 75X for a year and a half and seeing your conversion gave me the ambition to pick up the frame and props to make the swap. Really looking forward to getting my parts so I can start playing expermenting :)
Got my parts yesterday afternoon and worked non stop to get it all swapped over from the 75x ducted frame to the toothpick fram. I had to get creative with my duel stack but it works for now. I ended up mounting the ESC and flight controller to the bottom of the frame and then attached the camera/vtx to the flight controller through the hole on the top effectivly sandwiching the frame between the two. I ended up removing the small piece of foam that was stuck to the vtx since the first flight resulted in the camera disconnecting. My XM+ receiver wound up sitting right behind the camera in the space under the canopy. Slapped some umagrip to the ESC and using a rubbergand to hold the battery which gives me a dry weight of 42g and 63g with a 350mAh betaflight 2s battery. I've got 9 300mAh 2s nano-tech batteries which I was able to get well over 3 minutes of flight on. Best part is I have zero washing out like I had with the ducted frame before!! Thanks again s3ptum for inspiring me to finally switch the 75x over
So whats the advantage here compaired to a normal quad?
You should build a 3" Whirlygig with 1103-10000kv motors @ 2S. Its performance will surprise you and definetly would be something unique to add to your collection.
This week i will start builing an inverted 3" Whirlygig with 1104-4500kv motors @ 4S. I had made one previously but sold it shortly after performing the base tune. (Its on Rotorbuilds) The little copter flew like a bat outa hell, even with its motor scaling set to 50%.
Most of the videos are of the 2S Whirlygigs. Their very light and pretty simple to build as the Servo can directly connect to the Lipo. (16v 100 uf capacitor added in-line for filtering) Hence with the direct-connect, it removed the need for the secondary 7.4V BEC's used on the 4S builds.
I beleive theres still a video of the 4S on YouTube from last year. Though to be honnest, I was a bit disapointed with the 4S results. Simply put, the 1st 4S had a crappy camera that I wanted to step away from but flew like a missle @ 30% motor scaling. (Hard to control at that speed) The 2nd 4S with Emax 1106 motors (6-7 grams each) was overly heavy and thus tended to over-draw the battery when taken above 50% throttle. The 3rd build (Sold this one) with Emax 1108 motors (7-8 grams each) had a similar issue around 60-70% throttle but is much lighter overall. Despite this, all the builds had an ungodly TWR for such little things. (7 or 8:1 TWR) Saying this made tuning quite a challenge would be an underestatement. (They litterally scream at higher throttle settings)
V1 4S Whirlygig: https://rotorbuilds.com/build/18331
V2 4S Whirlygig: https://rotorbuilds.com/build/18949
V3 4S Whirlygig: https://rotorbuilds.com/build/20766
With the upcomming build, I'm hoping that the Xing 1104 motors will do the trick this time around as they have a much lower current draw and come in at 4-5 grams each. Its possible that change from the Emax mini 3" props to 2-bladed 3025's would help as well. Those 3025's are what I currently use on the 2S builds but I fear that using them with the 4S would cause the props tp flex horribly at full throttle.
Dude
That's such a cool idea
I build a big one
https://rotorbuilds.com/build/11629
flew awesome, yaw authority is superb, watch this
and do notice what he says about the rear motor angle
if you go for 45 degrees, it does not fly that well
30 - 35 degree angle for rear motors is ideal, just take it into consideration
I mean, the guy (simplecopter) experimented
Big thumbs up and I definetily want one of the frames
I'll pimp it like I always do, check my profile
that little thing rocks... trying to find ways to start an inexpensive and safe park racing club. This right here is a great contender!
Ultralight? :)
I had written more than a single word and an emoji... I'm usually much nicer than that :D Somehow my phone does not allow me to add longer comments. Very odd. Anyone else has that issue?
I agree with Fovea above... This is a nice and clean build. At 18.3gr each and you made it less than 160gr. Nice! I'm jealous!
Hi, First of all, thank you so much for this build tutorial. My drone fly pretty well. my problem is the vtx. My first one just stop working due to overheating. I buy another one. The green light turn on. The video is working about 20 sec and after that nothing. Any help ?
Does anyone else leave any slack in their 5" build motor wires for later, if they want to swap in 6" or 7" arms on the same quad?
http://fpv.air-war.org
I just assembled my frame and there is a gap in the camera mount. I don't see you been using any spacers.
very nice build
@nikottin
you have to compare the prop diameter to the weight to decide if its an ultralight in its class, usualy 4inches are 150g+
Tidy build! May i ask what your FPV Camera picture settings are please? I have the same FPV camera but it is very blue and just generally irritating to fly with.
Did you notice a performance difference with the added weight? I have the Nano 2 and XM+ receiver in mine and it seemed to be less responsive. But it may be in my head. I fried my FC when I tried to add a separate VTX, so I replaced the board and left the VTX off. I may try again after seeing yours.
wait do I need the eachine trashcan or not? what does misc mean?
So far, so good. I'm in the same boat, except waiting on everything...lol. Aside from the GPS, camera mounts, and battery pad, are you TPU printing protectors for the arms?