Discussions
I dont think so. That motors are pretty much capable of those props and I don't fly that aggressively:)
Maybe LED? lol
I have A LOT of Wraith32 ESCs on different builds,, I noticed all of them heats up relatively faster than what i have used before. But not to like dangerous temperature. I think it is fine.
You might want to consider using a 4-in-1 ESC with a 5v 3A regulator. That can save you the cost of a PDB and make the build considerably easier. Also, you might just want to get the VTX03 and drop the Aomway antenna. It comes with a little dipole antenna which works 95% as well as a circular polarized. You can always swap it out for an SMA antenna with a U.fl to SMA pigtail if you want to change antennas. It'll shave the antenna cost off the price. Finally, I'd just skip 3S and go directly to 4S. Those motors are great on 4S and don't feel overpowered at all. You don't want to end up with a bunch of 3S batteries that you'll never use down the road. Get some CNHL 4S packs, they're a great value.
16awg is too thick for motor wires. They'll either be 20awg or 22awg depending on the motor size. I believe 2205 is 20awg. I don't think you need to worry about buying the "S" version. The normal motors are perfectly fine and proven.
You'll want to power your FC, RX, Camera and VTX with the 5v 3a BEC on the 4-in-1 board. It makes things very convenient. All you have to do is plug the 4-in-1 into the FC and you've got power. You can solder your camera and VTX power input to any of the 5v pads on the board.
Oh, I had no idea that's how it works. So it's just the included cable to connect ESC to FC to the 4 in 1 slot on Omnibus board and it automatically steps down all the power the FC will give to 5 volts? Dang, that's convenient indeed.
Would I still need to jump the 5v/RAM pins?
Sorry if my understanding is not correct, it's all new to me.
EDIT: Oh wait, if I use the 5v stepdown from the ESC to power the FC, then I won't get an accurate voltage reading in the OSD, right? Is there a way to work around it? If I run wires to VBAT pins from the battery would that work as intended?
Oh that is Nanotech 4S 850mah. As mentioned I could get decent flight time out of 850mah but it was too light..
Most of 1300mah lipos will fit, 1500mah is a bit too long but pretty much OK. Tried Turnigh Graphene 1300 4S and Infinity Race 1500 4S.
I think Tattu R-Line square 1300 will fit this frame the best:) Maybe it will fit even with Gopro..
Had 2 carpark sliding session, so far so good. 1 bad crash but still fine. I fly slow:)
It feels very very solid.
Cool video that got me here. I find those Idealprop 6048 props so damn awesome to fly, but really tough to get the vibes out of. HQ 6045 triblades carbon fiber blend have been the best for filming for me so far, SUPER smooth and little wash. I fly a heavy quad on F80 2408 2200kv on 1300mah 5S so you might want to try those HQ CF 6045 triblades if you have not.
I don't use an OSD, but my Aikon 30a escs handle them fine. They are rated for 30a/40 burst but I rarely punch it more than 3 or 4 seconds, I fly freestyle only really. Those escs handle those props on 5S, so I would assume any 30a would be fine unless you are really pounding the throttle. My next escs for that quad are gonna be those Wraith32 plus which can do 50a since I want to at least try 6S lol
That quad also kills batteries, only graphene last for any length of time, and HV batteries are eradicated in a few packs lol. Hobbyking Graphene and Dinogy graphene last a good while on that quad. Batteries always come down a bit hot though.
Can you share a pic of how you have the cam mounted?
I am running the monster v2 on my tokio sx, and have had some trouble getting the camera mount to play nicely with the pod... Ive tried both the alu foxeer mount, and the TPU mount. The alu mount isnt tall enough, and the TPU mount doesnt play nicely with the pod. the pod actually pushes the mount so you get a bunch of extra uptilt once the pod is attached. Ive got mine set to minimum uptilt on the mount, but its still pointing up close to the top of the camera slot once i get the pod on.
this isnt my build, but i was running 2206 2522kv hyperlites on mine and they were super fast (and they are the best looking motors on the market imo). Unfortunately they got full of sand and the shaft screws were cemented in so the heads stripped on 2 of them when i tried to remove the bells to clean them.
I have since replaced them with the RMRC Rifles, which are also sick.
Hey!
Beautiful, super clean build. I absolutely love the paracord idea and refuse to use anything else now. ;)
I'm currently planning a Martian II build myself as a first racer (a first build as well, figured I'd be better off putting something together myself).
What I'm planning on using is a BG's F3 controller, Matek PDB and 30A BLHeli ESC (I'd like to use 4S in the future as well as 5045 props. Gotta practice that soldering!).
As for the camera I'd use a Runcam Swift 2 with the same VTX. As far as I know I wouldn't need a separate BEC for this config, right?
I also can't figure out how to wire the VTX and camera as I've seen many people do it in different ways.
Should I wire it through the PDB or wire the camera through the VTX? Does it change the amount of possible noise? What do you think?
I'd love your input as I can see you sure know how to put these together. ;)
Cheers!
How do you like those new ESCs? I have those same ones and going to put on my Chameleon. Was it difficult to set them up and get them synced?