I get the RTF (ready to fly) kit from Aliexpress, which was really cheap (80 euro)

CLOUD-149 RC Drone http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_sYH00u

Its cheap, but not ideal. But after some mods, it is perfect Gopro holder with ReelSteady GO ability. I just add receiver (R12DSM) and come on – ready to fly…

OK, it was not so easy, as I’m perfectionist, I disassemble everything and want to make wire-addressing much better. Also I would like to replace camera for the best one – RunCam Micro Eagle as I have one spare after disputed one.

There’s few issues with the frame, which my build is trying to solve:

• FPV camera is drown into frame whats causing visible rings in view. My 3D spacers will move camera around 30mm forward with no ring in view
  

• With Gopro on triangle foam fixed with battery strip video is quite shaky. With ReelSteady even more shaky. So Inspired by Nicecrash and create similar design of Gopro Session 5 holders dumped with silicon tube. Also there’s really easy to replace Gopro (pushed also with silicon tube) from fixture as well as it is possible to remove SD card without taking it out from fixture

• 

• There’s no foam around rings and rings are connected only with 3 screw and no more dumping between them and frame.
• It flyes pretty lazy, but I can take this partly as advantage, as it is possible to fly slow and precise.
• Lack of motor and ESC power in case of that hi throttle is needed.
  Those 2 last points will be solved later probably by replacing ESC (25A) and motors with higher KV

My 3D printer:

Most of the modifications are done with 3D printed parts. I designed all of the parts by myself in Sketchup, and all the 3D models I’m sharing for free
https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/by/wizzx?tab=collections
(but off course you can support me)
https://www.wizzx.tech/support-me/

I have SLA LCD 3D printer (Anycubic Photon S) and UV resin and I’m using Tough ressin.
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_dXeSan0
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_dU4dZVu

It is really precise to use SLA LCD prints (0.05mm) but on another side resin is tough but also fragile if you crash.
I already waiting for Flexible resin, but i will probably change design a bit for that.
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_dXGSLIw

First stage – basic BUILD (Second stage above with my special 3D mods):

So lets start with disassembly RTF drone and “make things better” a bit as wire addressing looks terrible.

I would like to place VTX (Mini 5848 VTX 48CH ) on the frame with Heat transfer pad (as carbon is quite good heat conductor) it can take some heat. I’m using 2mm one, but it can be thiner.

Put ESC on top of that VTX via some diameter 2mm spacers, rewire motors and add heatshrinks on cables

Add XT60 socket, fix with cable strips, test if soldering is OK with “smoke stopper” with 12V 15W bulb from car and USB tester (32V/5A) in series. Seems that we have LED lighting and no bulb lighting – that’s perfect

Put Receiver on double side tape to the front part of frame. My is R12DSM from radiolink

Add insulation tape on it just for sure. Also can connect VTX cable to VTX

Shorten cables on FC – I removed ESC socket and solder cables directly as there was no battery pin on socket
also solder buzzer directly on FC and glue with hot-melt. I did not, but you can twist the cables.

Solder 1000uF/35V capacitor to battery pads on ESC, and I use also 1000uf/6.3V to 5V (video feed), put some zips for antennas on arms as well as fix the motor cables with tape.

Connect antennas to RX and add some heatshrink on zips. There’s rings and camera on pictures, but we will put it later

First stage is ready, and you can go to Betaflight configuration as original one is 3.5, update latest Betaflight, activate RPM filter and update ESC to biderictional. Im using 48Khz method with target G_H_30_48_REV16_77.HEX
https://oscarliang.com/rpm-filter/
https://oscarliang.com/blheli-s-48khz/
Thank’s Oscar for perfect guides.

Now get some beer or coffee or booth and reward yourself than go to next stage

Second stage – my mods:

Cheap Ring self sticking foams from some car insulation. I have spare GLADEN car noise insulation foam, around 6mm thick and cut around 25mm /250mm plates from it.

Stick those foams around the rings, I put it all around, but later I cut around 70° area starting from camera and mirrored on backside ring.

now the 3D parts:
Camera holder to move rings out of camera view. I created 3 versions of camera extender

V0 – this is just a light extender

V1 – More robust extender with possibility to screw to rings

V2 – Final version with tubes for mount Gopro fixture via silicon tubes

Put 3D printed extenders on spacers and screw camera in angle you liked (10° for me)

Back gopro holder – this is back tube part for hodling gopro fixture via silicon tubes in back side

Put the top plate on your frame with and screw back Gopro holder there (BTW, I’m using Loctite to glue all the screws):

ReelSteady Gopro holder – this is main Gopro fixture with possibility to insert Gopro inside. I have more models as well – light, tough and super tough. I will post new article later about that.

So to fix the holder to the frame you need to put silicon wires thrue all the tubes.For me, zip tie works well.

Rear part silicons can be joined together with piece of insulation from 12AWG cable

And that’s it, you can fly Reel Steady. Weight of the drone is 337g with Gopro, without Lipo

Another 3D parts for cloud:

capacitor holder and RX holder

XT60 holder

Zip tie holder

You can find my all 3D models regarding Cloud 149 here:
https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/collection/c52913cd-3b3d-4785-bf60-304117f67396