Tetra 3, the Beast frame made of 1.5mm Carbon Plates and M1.4 hardware

By Martin Flite on Apr 24, 2025

5  0  10

Sorry for the crazy top photo, but for those of you who saw the Tetra 2 Lite frame presented almost a year ago were probably expecting something like this. Indeed, thanks to its tetrahedral structure, this frame is very strong against vertical forces at the four motor mountings. However, because the four braces connecting the upper and lower arms are thin vertical plates, they are not strong at all against horizontal forces, which may induce horizontal frame resonance due to strong vibration of the motors and props. Therefore, it seems important to use appropriate motors and undamaged props. In this post, I present an example of such a build that behaves well enough to enjoy HD FPV in casual flight.

Design --- from 2" to 3"

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I have found that simply scaling up the Tetra 2 Lite frame does not work well for larger builds. This is because when scaled up, weaknesses in the frame that do not affect 2” builds become obvious.

  1. Thickness of the carbon plates
    As far as flight performance is concerned, 1mm carbon plates are not bad. However, in actual use, FPV drones will eventually crash. Therefore, using 1mm carbon plates for a 3” build seems too risky. For me,1.5mm carbon plates are sufficient, but for racing or bando bashing, 2mm or thicker ones might better. As for 2.5" builds up to 4S for casual flight, 1mm carbon plates are sufficient.
  2. Braces
    The braces on the Tetra 2 Lite were made so that the extensions of the two adjacent braces intersect the axis of the motor between them. I thought it would be ideal to place each motor at the vertex of a tetrahedron. However, in actual builds with carbon plates, the location slightly inside from the vertex is more rigid against vertical forces. Therefore, I decided to move the motor mounting location to the inside of the intersection of the brace extensions. As the result, the braces were lengthened.
  3. Rear standoffs
    To protect upper arm from collision from above, it is desirable to add rear standoffs that also protect the stuff (FC or VTX) mounted under the upper arm.

Build

  • Frame : Tetra 3 for 20mm Wide Camera Kit (custom frame. Also designed aother version for 14mm wide camera)
    Wheelbase : 124.5mm
    Thickness : 1.5mm
    Motor mount : φ9-12mm, 4 holes, M2
    FC & VTX mount on the lower arm: 25.5x25.5mm, 20x20mm, 16x16mm, M2
    FC & VTX mount on the upper arm: 25.5x25.5mm, M2
    Maximum stack height : 32mm
    Compatible with whoop style vertical USB connector on the upper arm
    Compatible camera width : 20mm (spacers are necessary for narrower camera)
    Built-in battery strap holder (can use up to 15mm width strap)
    Weight : Approx. 16.2g (Carbon only); 18.0g with M1.4 hardware

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  • FC : JHEMCU F405 NOX V2 (very cheep, spare pads for MPU6000)
  • ESC: T-Motor Cinematic F30A 6S 4IN1
  • Motor : FPV Cycle 16mm 3700KV (previous version)
  • Props : HQProp 76mmx8
  • Weight : Approx. 150g (w/o battery)

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I think M1.4 screws and nuts are strong enough for carbon plates of up to 1.5mm thickness. However, they are apt to loosen easier than M2 ones. Therefore, it should be used with Loctite or adhesive. Since the screw head diameter is only 2.5 mm, I also used M1.4 washers. As with the frame of the Tetra 2 Lite, assembly is a bit tedious, but once you get used to it, it will be easier.

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This frame has enough space for the FC and ESC stack with a double-PCB HD VTX. This makes it easy to mount a variety of electronic devices.

Tuning

As usual, I ran the PIDtoolbox Basement tuning in angle mode before flying it outdoors. No special tuning was required for this build.

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Blackbox Log

On the test flight using a GNB 4S 650mAh 160C battery, I performed 0-100% slow throttle punches, some quick flips and rolls, and obtained a blackbox log file. I think the results are good enough to enjoy HD FPV for casual flight. In the Freq. vs Throttle Gyro-Scaled Roll chart, you can see a vague resonance, which appears as a vertical band, at about 200Hz. This weak resonance is not harmful to this build, but could be stronger in builds with higher vibrational motors and/or props.

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Photos

Discussion

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Rice_Bowl   20 days ago  
1

Work of art man 👏👏

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Martin Flite   19 days ago 
1

I have two prototype frames in work. One is a true-x quad frame (3-3.5") for double stack mounting, with tetrahedral construction for each of the four adjacent motor pairs. It is not as rigid as a simple Tetra frame, but it is easier to repair and has a lower CG. The other is a rather experimental frame that uses a servo to keep the battery in the horizontal position as it flies forward to reduce the aerodynamic drag. This is actually the second prototype. The first one flew well but was a bit fragile.

There are two other prototypes in abeyance, one for the Micro Hexa and one for the Tiny Octo. The motor layout is flat, but the footprint is smaller than a normal frame. Even though the motor layout is different from the regular hexagon or octagon, I found that they fly well if the motor mixer is set properly. These prototypes will be reconsidered after the above two projects.

Rice_Bowl   17 days ago 
1

That is absolutely incredibly my guy. What benefit does the first prototype have over the conventional toothpick platform? Still a pretty cool concept though while using similar tetrahedral construction from the smaller variants. I'm curious to see what that second prototype looks like. Seems like its focused on speed given you're prioritizing lowering drag.

very interesting work man! this is the exact reason why I follow you XD do you happen to have a YT channel where you showcase these frames? Would love to find more of your work if you have it on other platforms.

Martin Flite   17 days ago 
1

I think the ideal CG position for a multicopter is the center of thrust. Therefore, when I started my Tetra project I intended to mount two batteries connected in series under the upper arm, but this idea was abandoned because i realized it would be too cumbersome to prepare for each flight. Therefore, unless the battery is very light, the CG position is far from ideal. On the other hand, with current technology, the actual C-rate of LiPo batteries is rather better for larger ones. Therefor, in order to maximize thrust with the CG position close to the ideal potion, I think it would be a good option to build a long platform quad with a double stack configuration using the tetrahedral structure, if possible.

Lately, many people are building super fast quads with rocket style shells. I too like to fly fast, but I have no intention of participating in top speed races. I just want to enjoy more efficient high speed cruising without an aerodynamic shell.

I have only registered on YT, but not yet published. I am not very active on social media, so don't get your hopes up.

celestial_scribe   20 days ago  
1

very nice! I built an analog version of the 2.5" version you posted on armattan a while back. I was having a great time flying it on 3s and 4s, though I crashed it and need to epoxy the bottom plate. I wish I had a picture of the drone itself to post, but it is in pieces right now ... going to try and rebuild it to make it lighter than my first build which I had done in a rush. any plans to model a 3.5" version? and do you think you might list the tetras on cncdrones?

Martin Flite   19 days ago 
1

That version of the 2.5” Tetra kit was designed in response to requests received in messages on this site, and was only available for a short period of one month. It was actually the first prototype of the 2.5" Tetra, which I enjoyed flying with 1404 3800KV motors, but had strong frame resonance at 160-210Hz which still remained with the default filters. Since then I have been trying to improve it along with the 3" versions. Now finally released at Armattan productions, it is no longer lightweight. If you don't mind the 2.5g weight increase, the URL for the Tetra 25 (for 14mm wide camera) kit is https://armattanproductions.com/pages/kit_detail/3348.

I have already designed the first prototype of the 3.5” Tetra, but have not yet built it. I have to modify the design of braces, because the longer braces might have frame resonance at visible frequency (~100Hz), which is not acceptable for HD FPV. It will take time to release the 3.5” Tetra because I have another project. I hope to release it within 6 months.

If you wish, I would like to list the Tetra series on cncdrones.

celestial_scribe   19 days ago 
1

glad i was able to get one of the prototype collector's edition! :) the version you built with the o4 lite looks great. 2.5g seems like a reasonable trade off for the increased durability. i built mine with 6000kv 1202.5 motors, 65g dry weight. no top end thrust to speak of, but it was great for gliding along like a little bird. i was flying it over a frigid winter sea so I didn't get a realistic impression of flight time -- it was about 5 minutes to 3.5v with 450mah HV 3s or 4s fighting a freezing wind. but i expect in warmer weather it would fly for longer. i may transfer the build over to this 3" version that you've built for the sake of comparison. personally i would love if the tetra series was on cncdrones. :) looking forward to the 3.5" tetra and whatever you come up with next!

Martin Flite   19 days ago 
1

Short motors are lighter, more efficient and probably have a longer life. My old 1202.5 11500KV motors (FPV Cycle) are scratchy but still work well. I built Tetra 25 with Amax 1504 6000KV motors (3S) which are pretty heavy (about 12g each) but work quite well with HQProp 63mmx8. Thanks.

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