Hello everyone! I would like to share with you how I build my first DJI FPV drone.
I love to fly freestyle and hence I decided to build a freestyle drone, but I wanted it to be very light and durable so I could have about 6-8 minutes of flight time.I was thinking to get either 5" Armattan Chameleon or Marmotte frame, but then I realized they will be too big and heavy for this build. Therefore I decided to use the Armattan Gecko 4 frame since it's very similar in design but much lighter and smaller.
I decided to keep the length of all the motor wires long in case if I decide to change the frame or sell the motors. The wiring of the motors to the 4 in 1 ESC is shown in one of the photos, this will give you standard rotation (not reversed). I twisted the rear motor wires under the ESC and the front motor wires under the flight controller. I also coated the flight controller and ESC with the B7000 glue to protect them from moisture and liquids (we have a lot of snow here during the wintertime).
I got the buzzer with a small led from my old Kingkong drone and the buzzer fitted perfectly in the front hole of the main plate. I used M2 screws and screw nuts to attach the flight controller to the main plate and also used the M3 to M2 adaptor from the mamba F722DJI Mini STACK kit to hide and protect all the wires of the FC and as an additional stand for the DJI Air Unit. The M2 screws have been used to attach the ESC to the main plate, but instead of M2 screw nuts, I used the M2 nylon standoffs which I cut to a proper length to use as a stand for the DJI Air Unit. The M3 to M2 adaptor also could be used to fit the M2 screws in the M3 holes of the Gecko 4 main plate. However, I didn't use it for that, but instead just used two layers of rubber shrink tape and a spacer at the bottom of the M2 screws (see one of the photos). Then I attached the TBS crossfire RX nano SE to the adaptor with a nylon tie.
After that, I attached the DJI Air Unit to the Gecko 4 top plate with double-sided tape and a nylon tie. I want to note that the DJI Air Unit is too large for this frame and hence the top plate won't seat on the front titanium braces and the rear posts without 6 mm M3 nylon standoffs. I also secured the XT60 wires to the right post and the top late with nylon ties. I secured the ECS's condenser with a nylon tie around the rear posts.
I fly this drone with 4S Li-po battaries 1300 mah 90C and they give me about 6-8 minutes of flight time, the Lipo wires should not be short for easy plugin. BTW, for this build you need a 30 cm long battery strap.
This is pretty much it, except I added some 3D printed things. I customized some of the 3D models from Thingiverse to make the motor guards, immortal-T antenna holders, and DJI antenna holders. Specifically, I made the guards higher/taller, extended the T-antenna holders down so the antenna won't touch the frame, and added some minor changes to the DJI antenna holders. Also, I strongly recommend to print and put a TPU lens protector to the DJI Air Unit camera lens!
For the proper wiring the FC I used a wiring diagram from this site https://www.unmannedtechshop.co.uk/product/mamba-f722-mini-mk2-dji-flight-stack-35a-3-6s/?v=f9308c5d0596 so big thanks them from me.
If you have any questions just send me a message or leave a comment down below. I would appreciate it if you also subscribe to my youtube and Instagram channels - Cranstonfpv, where I will be posting videos on how this build flies.