The basic idea
I’ve been planning on making a CineWhoop fora long time now, but so far, I’d always stuck to 5-inch builds. Eventually, an opportunity presented itself in the guise of a new GepRC product, and I decided to take the plunge.
All in all, it turned out to be a tricky, yet rewarding build.
Important pre-build info
-
A GepRC CineLog 35 frame comes with a 26.5mm x 26.5mm mounting pattern. This is very important to note, as not all AIO boards come with this pattern (most come with the 25.5mm x 25.5mm pattern). Hence, it’s important to make sure you have the right board for the job.
-
If the cinewhoop build will carry a GoPro Hero 9 or a larger action cam, go with the larger 2004 size motors (like I’ve done in this build).
-
If, like mine, you intend to build a 6S version, make sure you use the battery pigtail wire that comes with the frame and not the one that comes with the FC, as the pigtail that comes with the frame already has a capacitor soldered to it.
-
I mounted the AIO board upside down, and the board has its default front side 45 degrees to the right of the front side (edge of the board instead of the usual side - See the arrow)
-
This meant that I had to make a couple of changes in BetaFlight to compensate for the FC alignment.
-
Motor alignment also needed to be changed to make sure that each motor is mapped correctly on Betaflight (M1 switched with M3, M2 switched with M4):
DEFAULT CONFIG
resource MOTOR 1 C09
resource MOTOR 2 C08
resource MOTOR 3 C07
resource MOTOR 4 C06NEW CONFIG
resource MOTOR 1 C07
resource MOTOR 2 C06
resource MOTOR 3 C09
resource MOTOR 4 C08 -
Ensure that the cables connecting the flight controller with the Vista and the RX are as long as possible. this will make opening up the build easier in the future, if required.
- The order of the build is very important here as everything becomes easy if you do them in the right way. The best sequence will be:
- Assemble the frame
- Solder wires to the RX
- Solder wires to the Vista
- Insert battery strap
- Install AIO board
- Install Vista
- Solder RX wires to the FC
- Install RX into the frame
- Temporarily install motors without guard
- Solder motor wires to FC
- Unscrew motors and install prop guard
- Install the antennas for Vista and RX
Photos
Part List
Show stores (11)Guides & Reviews
AirbladeUAV has done it again and this time they've brought long range to the 5" class! Based on the popular Transformer Mini, the new Transformer 5" Ultralight adopts a lot of the same design philosophies with larger props and more payload capacity. It can fly upwards of 20 minutes on a 4 cell Li-Ion battery pack and in ideal conditions it's got a range of over 4 to 5 miles. In this guide I'll walk..
Read more
With the release of the DJI FPV Drone cinematic FPV has become a lot more accessible, but you certainly don't want to crash a $750 drone! The QAV-CINE Freybott is a compact, lightweight cinematic FPV drone that can take a hit and keep going. It's a lot safer to fly indoors and around people. With a naked GoPro or the SMO 4k you can capture some great stabilized footage. In this guide I'll show you..
Read more
doing a similar build. its is all together and have bind to my Radiomaster 16S Pro. however, i cant get it in the air. i have my flight control arrow to the the left of the camera whereas you have yours to the right. using betaflight, all motors spin the correct direction and are mounted in the correct location. this is my very first build. im 70 years old and and for the darn of me, i cant figure it out. you help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Kingfisher