nerdCopter's 6" Screech (5" Props)

This quad is dead -- lives on as https://rotorbuilds.com/build/31339

I transplanted all my components from my destroyed Flosstyle 5" into my Strix Screech with 6" arms. Typically the Screech is purchased with 5" arms, with the "XL" arms available for purchase. By special request, I wanted only the 6" arms. Thank you RMRC and Mr. Noize for swapping the upgraded arms!!

So far, I like the Screech frame better that the FlosStyle for "build reasons".

prō: (which far outweigh any con)

• plenty room around the stack; the standoffs do not interfere with the ESC solder joints at all (as opposed to FlosStyle 5 v2)
• boomerang arms can be mounted left-right or front-back because the mounting holes are precisely square in measurement (symmetrical)
• plenty of well oriented zip-tie slots in the bottom plate rear-end (no need for TPU "bed" as required in my Flosstyle)
• top screw-heads do not interfere with a well positioned battery!
• rear standoffs can be double or single standoff
• large strap-slots
• PRICE

contrā:

• recessed stack-screw holes on the bracket-plate which are designed for pan-head screws (i prefer normal holes for normal screws)
• large opening in the bottom plate's front, below the camera (i prefer solid area with slots, matching the rear)
• could use a bit more room in the front for a lost-buzzer (again, i prefer solid area with slots for zip-ties)
• FPV camera TPU was too thick for my camera screws (used the Flosstyle's TPU instead)
• 6" arms crack/delaminate quite easily in crashes, in my opinion. I dont know about the 5" arms. (edited Oct 2020)

If I could, I would like to redesign the frame such that the top and bottom plates would be identical and have plenty of zip-tie slots. Imagine simply combining the front of the top plate with the remainder of the bottom plate. Of course including the strap slots. I would absolutly not use recessed-holes on the bracket-plate. I would probably introduce FlosStyle fingers on the arms (but that might also change the "owl" motif).

I opted to use all steel socket-head screws. I find them less prone to stripping the hex, even at the cost of a microscopic bit of weight. I also opted to secure all the bottom-plate screws with steel nuts so as not to put extra pressure on the standoffs.

I need more photos. i need better lighting. The lost-buzzer placement is temporary. I bought a smaller one, unsure where (or how) it will fit.

I'm listing the Helio Spring v2 below because you can no longer buy the v1, but technically i'm flying the v1.

1st published flight:

much better flights:

June 2019: Replaced the old beat-up EMAX motors with Tachyon T2207 1750KV (because i already had them). I don't really like them, but they are not vibrating my whole qaud. Should note also, they are v1 and discontinued. I really loved the old EMAX LS Series, but i even had broken windings.
July 2019: Removed the Caddx SDR1 and replaces with Caddx ratel 2.1mm.

2021/2022+: Now running the XROTOR 4IN1 60A ESC