My first build; My budget breaker! (The frame is now destroyed, the quad lives on as my Screech 6".)

I burnt two motors on first test due to default settings. I then replaced with iFlight Tachyon and two bent after first ever acro-flip crash 16ft straight down into grassy dirt. I think Tachyons should not have bent. (cheap and soft!?!?) Waiting on replacement EMAX LS2207 then will try again. Really considering RCX Economy LS2207 if i continue to fail. Update: Currently on EMax LS2207 1900KV again and LOVE them, they have taken such a beating and contunue to impress. My final catosphic crash hurt one of the Emax, but i replaced a bearing, a bell and soldered a winding-strand back together and yes it still wrrrrrs so good!

Important Noob Notes: Don't use uncalibrated multishot and don't try default notch filter for long: Test it properly! (10 second hover, 20s hover, etc.) Wrong notch will cause D-loop to create HOT motors quickly. I ended up needing my notch filter going up near 260Hz because my max motor noise was around the 243 mark. Still testing notch settings (10hz to 260hz) Also, HelioRC reports to do PID loops of 16/16 with DShot1200 or 32/32 with Multishot. For accurate current sensing, I have learned multishot plus a small capacitor is needed to be soldered which i have not done. You will need to search or review flyhelio.slack.com for details. HelioRC team also reports never softmount motors. (Specifically friends don't let friends softmount.) Use only the FC grommets.

With last reconfiguration (rebuild), I chose to put the FC on bottom and the 4in1 ESC on top, allowing me to take the ESC and motors off super easy rather than complete take-down each time. I also removed the bug antennas and made them into zip-tie arm antennas that everyone recommends. EDIT: I moved the rx antennas yet again due to 50 rssi at 210m(689ft). I spent a little extra time routing vtx and rx wires to the outtside or edge of the FC to remove any electrical leakage to the FC components. I also tried to keep the wiring somewhat lose to prohibit vibration from the wires into the FC.

Being a 6S, 1900kv, and controlled with FrSky x-Lite, it's a bit too much for me to learn on! The shorter gimbal throw of the x-Lite requires throttle expo (40) and posibly cut off 20 points off top of throttle by setting a custom "curve" in OpenTX because 1900kv is so powerful. (Kabab said the same.) You could create a single curve in OpenTX that includes both a simulation of such expo and the max cutoff, if you prefer.

It is a bit too much for me to handle as a total noob, but i'm still very proud of it. I should have whooped first. :wink: EDIT: Now after a little stick time and the expo/"curve" settings, it's geting easier and feels right.

AK32 v2 has different motor positions and may require resource remapping (or correct wiring harness pinouts). I had a v1, but burned it in a stupid noob mistake (always use a smoke-stopper), then ordered a v2. I re-used the wiring harness i had already re-pinned, so this required me to resource-map the new motor positions, which was ultra easy. The document in v2 is the same of v1, however it was obvious that motor positions were moved physically, but not in the document.

If nothing else, I do recommend having a TPU vtx mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2929215 and possibly my custom feet: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3086944

I also made a mods of the vtx mount and other things including some Hawkeye Firefly Micro mounts. Check them out here: https://www.thingiverse.com/nerdCopter/designs and please accredit, comment, and show off your prints.

See my processes, mistakes, and more on my YouTube https://nerdCopter.page.link/YT

News:
My photos will show some progressions. In my last you will see a prop-blade missing. I fail-safed behind a home, but i did not know, i relaunched and still flew. HelioRC kept me in the air. Notice the gel pad, they are perfect and cheap lipo pads. 20-count for $11 on Amzn. Also in the same photo, i do not like my over-engineered antennas. I had to replace my r-xsr antennas with iFlight replacements which are much longer. This looks horrible and they don't stay in an "L" shape; furthermore, they are too long for zipping to the arms Bardwell style. I'm open to options, so please share ideas. The prior photo, the antennas were perfet, but i broke the short antennas because i had no slack in the mounting. I have also added a $10 lost buzzer recently, which sit behind the fpv camera. it's the perfect amout of space, but is does limit my angle to a max of about 30 degrees.

Also a warning about the indestructible quads lipo straps, the hook and loop (velcro) wear out easily because the "loops" (soft material) degrade and come off easily. they last less than a month. so i retained the metal buckles and made my own straps with Panduit Tak-Tape (@40lb tinsel strength) and heavy duty thread. You can see the home-made lipo strap and the lost buzzer in my video titled "And on the 7th day he tuned PIDs", but note, this vid is far from my bests.

I've listed a bunch of TPU mounts that i had preinted and either used, retired, or ultimately chose not to use. Also please note i have designed my own TPU mounts which are yet to be printed. I was told that my feet worked out very well for another flosstyle owner. The Hawkeye mount was heavily modded and cut, so i designed what i hope to be better options. I retired the r-xsr mount as i found it cramped on the stack. The FlosStyle rear plate (vtx mount) by ledroneclub is still in use until i get my modded mounts printed. It has been the most useful item ever.
https://www.thingiverse.com/nerdCopter/designs

The 87g Flosstyle is very nice, but has a short stack which i probably refer. My biggest quams with it is that the arm bolts are very close to the stack. A second problem is there are no zip tie slots for mounting things, so you are forced to sticky tape or TPU print. I think i would choose the 97 gram Strix Screech, or possibly the 117g iFlightXL5, if i were to "do-over".

My best estimate of total weight is approx 544 grams including the 200g battery. This is based on a human-scale wighing of 1.2lbs. Compenent totals to 500g, but there is the addition of the antenna mounts, zip-ties, wires, heat-shrink, tpu feet, lipo-straps, and heavier screws.

On March 4, 2019, I crashed hard into a canopy's steel beam. The FlosStyle Frame and HD-Cam were catosphically destroyed. My components live on in my Screech 6".