Hey..."where to solder" is going to vary depend on the Flight controller / ESC you buy. You should just follow Joshua Bardwell's videos on how to build a drone. ;)

So i just buy the parts you used, print the frame, then follow josh's build?

Wish it was that simple. Some of the parts I used in that drone are no longer sold (it was old hardware I had around) so all the wiring to the flight controller will be in different locations than what you buy. Learning "how" to build a drone is what will give you the foundation for making whatever you want no matter what hardware you use.

ok thanks do you have a build with more modern parts that youd recommend

Hey...My Heisenberg build used very new components except for the frame:
https://rotorbuilds.com/build/30605
https://www.speedybee.com/speedybee-f7-v3-bl32-50a-30x30-stack/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0925DSVW2?tag=rotor-builds-20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YWN5XD2?tag=rotor-builds-20
https://www.getfpv.com/runcam-phoenix-2-1000tvl-2-1mm-fpv-camera-joshua-bardwell-edition-silver.html
https://www.team-blacksheep.com/products/prod:crossfire_nano_rx

Thx for the compliments! This one is used alot by others on Rotorbuilds:
https://rotorbuilds.com/part/58024

Thx bud for your comment on my build. :) Yes the Ruibet is a solid ESC...one of the things I needed to do though was move the header pins around if your Flight Controllers ESC connector has different pinouts. It's not hard (just need a pin to release each connector that needs to be moved)...just a little tedius. I had a vice I use to hold the cable header in place as I moved the pins around. You could always just solder to the board to, but I wanted a little cleaner build..

Thx bud! :D PLA is not the greatest in strength, so you have to use 100% infill and frames with cross braces are usually better. These comments were from the designer on this frame:
"Full Disclaimer: It definetly can take a beating, but it's not invincible so it is not recommend for absolut beginners in the FPV-hobby, unless you are willing to print the frame multiple times.

Speaking of Printing:

I had the best results with PC-ABS (compensate the shrinkage of abs by scaling the model to 100,8% in your slicer) or heat treated Pla (annealing PLA will cause the part to shrink along the x- and y-axis and grow in the z-direction, so you have to compensate by scaling the model in your slicer non proportional. For me the following values worked the best to get an accurate scale after annealing: x=102% y=102%, z=98%)

Stay away from PETG or any fiber filled materials, because they will most likely shatter on impact!

min. printbed area reqired for the frame: 190x190mm

(recommend area with brim: 200x200mm)"
As far as fading, yeah if ya let it roast in the sun it will...lol ;)