Skittles - XEVO X210 Remix

By Apeian on Nov 26, 2023

9  0  12

Had some spare parts lying around from some older builds and some color changing PLA, so I figured I'd build me a play drone. Wow! :D...this is like the best looking drone I have ever built, and it definately flys great - and no "jello"! Needed to only buy a FPV Cam, 4 in 1 esc, and a Crossfire receiver. I will be buying a better Video antenna, but other that what a fun project. I love this older 3D printed frame from Xevox, although mounting the hardware was a bit challenging with the "canopy mount". Some clips of the maiden flight below. All I can say is...

TASTE THE RAINBOW... ;)

Photos

Discussion

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Latency   Jan 18, 2024  

Sorry to bother again, im relatively new to the hobby, could you give me a brief guide (possibly with pictures) of how to assemble? i know (realively) how to assemble it i just dont know where to solder stuff on the board. Please advise

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Apeian   23 days ago 

Wish it was that simple. Some of the parts I used in that drone are no longer sold (it was old hardware I had around) so all the wiring to the flight controller will be in different locations than what you buy. Learning "how" to build a drone is what will give you the foundation for making whatever you want no matter what hardware you use.

Latency   22 days ago 

ok thanks do you have a build with more modern parts that youd recommend

Latency   Jan 16, 2024  

This drone looks absolutely sick! What ELRS receiver would you recomend for this build?

Apeian   Jan 17, 2024 

Thx for the compliments! This one is used alot by others on Rotorbuilds:
https://rotorbuilds.com/part/58024

DK-TechCorner   Dec 24, 2023  

Awesome build 😎👍 Is your JHEMCU RuiBet 55A still alive, I smoked one of their 50A AIO and wornder if their ESC is better?

Apeian   Dec 26, 2023 

Thx bud for your comment on my build. :) Yes the Ruibet is a solid ESC...one of the things I needed to do though was move the header pins around if your Flight Controllers ESC connector has different pinouts. It's not hard (just need a pin to release each connector that needs to be moved)...just a little tedius. I had a vice I use to hold the cable header in place as I moved the pins around. You could always just solder to the board to, but I wanted a little cleaner build..

truckz   Nov 27, 2023  

this is super cool! I'm curious how the PLA will hold up to crashes and sun exposure.

Apeian   Nov 27, 2023 
1

Thx bud! :D PLA is not the greatest in strength, so you have to use 100% infill and frames with cross braces are usually better. These comments were from the designer on this frame:
"Full Disclaimer: It definetly can take a beating, but it's not invincible so it is not recommend for absolut beginners in the FPV-hobby, unless you are willing to print the frame multiple times.

Speaking of Printing:

I had the best results with PC-ABS (compensate the shrinkage of abs by scaling the model to 100,8% in your slicer) or heat treated Pla (annealing PLA will cause the part to shrink along the x- and y-axis and grow in the z-direction, so you have to compensate by scaling the model in your slicer non proportional. For me the following values worked the best to get an accurate scale after annealing: x=102% y=102%, z=98%)

Stay away from PETG or any fiber filled materials, because they will most likely shatter on impact!

min. printbed area reqired for the frame: 190x190mm

(recommend area with brim: 200x200mm)"
As far as fading, yeah if ya let it roast in the sun it will...lol ;)

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