Thank you! I actually rebuilt it a bit after I took these photos. Went through a few different antena and props. This is where I ended up... which was about 6 months ago so i forgot what I did haha

Hey thanks! Nope, this is the Mini Split V1. I was talking about the updated firmware. That helped things out for me.

Thanks mate!

Regarding the DShot buzzer - did you flash the ESCs to version 16.7? If you did and the buzzer is setup on the modes tab (you can see it active when flipping the switch) then the last place is to check if it's selected on the configuration tab. Sometimes it doesn't get saved. That's all I can think of.

Don't worry about the PIDs. In 3.5, I turn on all the relax/smooth options on the PIDs tab and only adjust FF values to make it fly smoother (decrease) or more responsive. Everything else is usually fine.

Thank you Sergetania! I flashed the XM+ about a month ago to get rssi on aux 12, so it should be pretty updated. I will try moving things around, but there isnt really any room in there! I also read to try binding it while the sbus wire is unsoldered. It's tough because it doesnt always do it and when it turns green everything works fine. Im also going to check if anything is grounding out to the frame. Lol, yea... i should probably cut down those antenna :)

Ahh! I did not check the ESC versions! I will check that when I get home. Thanks again sergetania.
I will have to post some videos because it doesnt fly that smooth right now. It has some fluttering and i know it needs to be tunned. What are FF values? Thanks!

Oh, also something interesting I noticed yesterday. When flying around in FPV the camera will go darker and eventually get lighter again, the recorded HD footage looks fine though. I also notice that when I start recording the FPV feed will get darker too. Still getting used to this Split Mini.

Wait, don't cut the antennas, just the tubes! It's probably what you meant, just making sure. I don't think your rx issues are down to wiring. I meant just distance between the radio and the rx, sometimes it loses connection when too close. Maybe you have a faulty rx after all.

Honestly, I hate both the split and the turtle cams. I decided the video for me is not worth the trouble and switched to regular fpv cams. There's always something wrong with the split type cams. They prevent me from flying the way I enjoy. Either the fpv feed is lousy, or they break when you crash, or something else. Unless you enjoy flying a dedicated cinematic rig that you fly very carefully. In my opinion, we are a couple of generations away from the HD cams that are usable in general.

How bad is the fluttering and when does it happen? I usually ignore when a drone flutters moderately in sharp turns. It doesn't bother me and it also depends on prop/battery. Too much trouble to tune it out unless it's severe enough to annoy me which hasn't happened in 3.5 yet. You are flying with a heavy and tall battery for that drone, you may have some severe prop wash when changing directions. Do you have 450-650 mAh batteries to try?

FF tells the software how quickly to react to the stick input. Defaults are 60, I often bring it down to 50 to make it smoother. Change it both ways to see what you like.

Lol I knew what you meant! Actually the antenna that oringally came with the XM+, and even the XM, are much shorter than these replacements I have on there now. I should cut them down to a shorter length. I just get nervous because it seems they need to be pretty exact, down to the 10th of a milimeter. I need to move some of the wires around. The SBUS wire might be too close to the battery wire, etc. Ill play around with it and see if I can figure it out. Or like you said maybe its just a bad RX. REALLY not worth losing the drone over a $13 part.

I 100% agree with you. They're trying to do two things at once so theres going to be sacrifices. I wanted to try it out to get a decent FPV feed recroding but so far its been a little spotty. This was meant to be more of a cruiser. I based it off of Albert Kim's builds. Thats why I went with this frame/motor/ and battery choice.

I'm not sure how bad is bad. I will have to try and make a recording of it. I still need to play around with BF. I HAD a 650 battery but sadly its in a tree right now... along with my GT-R90 :'(. Cool! Ill try messing with the FF. Thanks again!

Sorry, I know how you feel. I have a FlexRC komori high in the tree above the house, can't get to it and the frame is not even available anymore. I loved it!
I learned not to freak out about the PIDs. Does a problem prevent you from enjoying the flight? If not no need to tune. I don't know how to anyway. I had one drone with a split that used to vibrate like crazy and nothing helped. Another drone was soo loose I had to raise Ps a lot but it was 3.3. Everything else was from great to bearable and 3.5 flies great in general.
Having wires close to each other is not a big deal. I understand FrSky became popular because everything else used to be terrible. But honestly, regular FrSky receivers also have problems, maybe not as often. A few months ago I have switched to R9 receivers and been very happy with them. I don't think I have had a failsafe since or connection not established because the radio is too close.

Oh man what a night! First, thank you for the ESC 16.7 suggestion. That fixed the buzzer!
I spent about an hour and went through about 6 antennas before I was able to strip two successfully. What a pain! So I was bale to shorten the tubes by quite a bit. I moved the RX over and away from the VTX as well. Got it all back together and now its dropping out of the air and giving me rx loss errors. Ugh. Way worse than before. So I just ordered a new XM+ on amazon. It will be here friday. If that one has the same problem at least I know its not the RX.
Also, I have the VTX and Split Mini powered off the vbat pad, which connects directly to the battery. Do you think I should run either of them off of the "cam" pad, or the split mini off the Mach 1's camera pad? I read reports that people were having issues running the mini off of cam pads because they didnt supply enough current and the fpv feed would freeze! I do have the supplied 1000uf cap installed. Im not getting any "punch out" noise. Just seems like the feed drops out a lot more than my R90. Thanks again!

Sorry about the trouble! I think it a good idea you have ordered a new rx. When you get it, flash it, don't touch the antennas, put hot glue on the antenna connectors and install. Keep the tubes 2-3" long. It's best if there 90 degree angle between the antennas (you can bend the tubes slightly after heating them up with a heat gun)
I am sorry but I am not sure I understand. What problems do you have with the video?

Hey! The new XM+ works perfectly! No more rx drop outs. I dont know if it was a bad wire or what but I replaced everything.
I was just wondering if anyone had a suggestion to make the video feed better. I think I have it powered the best way though - both off the battery. Just thought that maybe the FC had more filtering or something, idk. I might try a different antenna.

Here is my first flight. I think youre right about too heavy of a battery. After long drops it has a lot of hesitation to throttle up again. Or it just needs to be tuned better. Warning long boring flight. Im new to this!

Nice flight! Btw, I have found a great remedy for long boring flights. You just need to crash more often.
Just to get the record straight, I am not very old at this either. Oh, nice view, liked the mountain ridge. Where's that?
I will make a separate post about the fluttering and PIDs. I am glad that new rx works well. It's not wiring, you probably had a faulty rx.
You have never explained what you don't like about the video feed. Noise, quality, range?

The fluttering and PIDs. A couple of my heavier quads have this type of fluttering especially noticeable when losing attitude and throttle above 0. It gets worse with heavier battery and/or going from 3S to 4S and also with heavy props. When mild, I simply ignore it but it can get annoying. I do think that you will benefit from using a lighter battery. You can usually tell right away when pulling out of a dive. What's the total weight of the drone without the battery? 120-130 g?
You can also try increasing the throttle boost if you haven't done so. It helps with heavier drones. Try setting it to 8. Albert Kim just posted a video about BF 3.5 for micros which I have found very useful. Follow his recommendations.
You have some bounce when you roll. You can probably decrease P and D which may help with the fluttering. I just hate touching PIDs because it's an endless process. You can also try props with less pitch, 3035 or 3x3x3.
Since you have it on the video you can ask someone like Joshua Bardwell to explain about the fluttering and how to fix it. He's pretty good responding though it may take a few days to get back to you. If you ask him please let me know what he says.

Lol im trying really hard NOT to crash!! Ive had a couple of mild crashes mostly on grass and the frame is holding up really well. It's in Southern California in the Inland Empire. The video would just drop out a lot and get a lot of noise. So after reading about antenna placement I realized that laying the antenna parallel to the ground was the worst way to mount them. So I moved it so its pointing straight up now. It helped with the video reception so thats a plus! I think I might try a right angle mmcx connector antenna and stick the antenna out the front near the camera. I hate messing with PIDs as well! I did watch Albert's video and thats why I set it up the way I did haha. It seems to be flying better now. I will have to make another video. I am going to order a 650 battery and maybe different props. I chose those props because I think they were designed to be used with these motors. I also saw a youtube video where I guy tests a bunch of different props on this motor and these were the most efficient!

Your original vtx antenna placement was far from optimal and the part sticking out is too short. The antenna is too close to the drone. Find or make a hole in the top plate and put the antenna through it so it points up, it should make it better. You also have a tall battery that shields antenna from you.
I have built a couple of drones similar to yours (see my builds) with 1404 motors and I wasn't thrilled with 3044 props that were supposedly designed for the motors.

Another free advice 😉
Plan to build a drone you are not afraid to crash. Fly it's over grass. The fear of crashing really takes fun out of flying and you are not getting better. Lighter micros(FlexRC, for example) are very durable but they are not as good as heavier ones at acro. My two favorite acro drones are the acrobrat (though I have broken an arm and had to replace the base plate - it's heavy and less durable) and massive droner 2.5 (this one is more durable but the brat is more fun, at least how I built them)

I was looking at the flexRC! I like how simple it was. I need to buy/build a 2.5" since I still have lots of props and batteries for my lost R90. :(
Well alright ill buy some new props too! That and a new battery... and a new antenna haha. Ill stick it up the front or maybe ill reroute the xt30 connetor and stick the antenna where its supposed to go on the 3D printed mount.

There's always something and it adds up. If you are looking for a 2.5" I really liked how this one flew (until I smashed it upside down on a driveway a nd cracked the cage)
https://rotorbuilds.com/build/13460
I'd suggest using Zeus FC/ESC which you can get for $50 at the tbs website. I used to like the Super_S stack but I keep frying them. Zeus is much more durable. The 1402 motors are super efficient but you can use 1106 instead.

I think this is a longer antenna that may work for you
https://www.getfpv.com/vas-minion-mmcx-5-8ghz-antenna-rhcp.html