S500 - CX 20 Edition

By isamad on Aug 10, 2015

1  283  10

Using my crashed CX-20 to convert to a S500 build. I have all stock parts except some aftermarket as listed below.

My first build so looking for feedback.

Part List

Flight Controller

AliExpress
Aliexpress.com
$2.63

Propellers

Gemfan 9047 Carbon Nylon CW/CCW Propeller For DJI RC Multirotor
Banggood.com
$3.38
Show stores (2)

Discussion

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Whiffles   Aug 10, 2015  

Are you going to use the stock CX-20 ESCs? You may need to extend the wires to fit on the longer arms and I'd suggest wrapping them in shrink wrap tubing to protect them. Personally, I replaced them with a set of cheap 30A SimonK ESCs.

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isamad   Aug 10, 2015 

After the crash I am trying to assess if my issues and I get the following reading;

Can you please evaluate the following from the image

1) Battery readings seems off
2) GPS - i am out on the balcony

fradioflyer   Aug 11, 2015 

GPS hdop seems fine given only 6 satellites locked on. Try uavforecast.com for your location to learn how many satellites to expect. Be sure to uncheck the box for GLONASS unless you have a M8N gps unit.

Whiffles   Aug 19, 2015 

Get the kit yet? How's the build coming along?

Whiffles   Aug 10, 2015  

That's a strange image there. Why not show a photo of some of your parts if you haven't completed the build yet?

isamad   Aug 11, 2015 

Hi I want to ask regarding my battery values on that screenshot, do they appear normal. It was a charged battery!

fradioflyer   Aug 11, 2015 

No, that's not normal. It's showing battery voltage of only 3.53 volts! You need to calibrate the Battery Monitor. There are two attributes: voltage, which you can determine from a multimeter or one of those monitors you connect to the balance leads. The other is amperes per volt. This one requires you have a battery charger that tells you how many ma are returned. After some flight, charge the battery to see how much ma used...this is actual. Look at the APM log for CurrTot; the max value is 'measured'. Divide actual / measured and multipy that with the current value (default is 17) to get the new value. Then your amp draw and current consumed will be accurate.

That's pretty significant to effectively use those battery failsafes. My 'amperes per volt' setting was wrong recently and led to a crash. I was mere feet away from landing trusting the telemetry output that I'd used 5500ma of an 8000ma battery. In reality, I'd exhausted the entire battery and it pitched into the dirt dead.

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