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AirbladeUAV has done it again and this time they've brought long range to the 5" class! Based on the popular Transformer Mini, the new Transformer 5" Ultralight adopts a lot of the same design philosophies with larger props and more payload capacity. It can fly upwards of 20 minutes on a 4 cell Li-Ion battery pack and in ideal conditions it's got a range of over 4 to 5 miles. In this guide I'll walk..
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With the release of the DJI FPV Drone cinematic FPV has become a lot more accessible, but you certainly don't want to crash a $750 drone! The QAV-CINE Freybott is a compact, lightweight cinematic FPV drone that can take a hit and keep going. It's a lot safer to fly indoors and around people. With a naked GoPro or the SMO 4k you can capture some great stabilized footage. In this guide I'll show you..
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Congratulations, and welcome to the amazing world of FPV :)
You did a LOT of things right with your build!
This is gonna be crashed when you start learning to fly (I hope you are already flying it :) )
Lets talk about things to change for the sake of crashes: your antenna are too long coming off your arms, those are gonna (somehow) make their way into the path of the props and get chopped up, you need to shorten them (don't CUT the antenna though)
Your battery: 2 straps is good!
Cut down your straps, they are too long for your battery (or buy shorter ones).
You could flip your battery over so its wires have to cross the top of the quad before they plug in, which would keep the wires tighter to the body of the quad, and further away from the dreaded prop strike.
Lastly, and I know you're not gonna like this, you are going to eject your battery in harder crashes from time to time (yes, even with 2 straps and a pad, untill you put a gopro mount in front of it, it will somehow make its way out). When this happens the stress is going to be applied directly to the solder points where the battery wires come off your 4n1 esc. If you're lucky nothing bad will happen, and the battery will just unplug. If you're UNLUCKY the battery wires will rip clean off the esc. That can go 2 ways. The good way involves the solder breaking, and the bad way involves the solder pads on the esc ripping off, making the esc unusable. Your 2 straps REALLY goes a long way in dealing with this, but you're rolling the dice every time you crash. The typical solution is to lash the battery leads to the frame with a ziptie somewhere (like a standoff, or protrusion/cut in the frame somewhere). I wouldn't cut into my frame to get it done, but I would route my battery leads differently so they pass near enough to some part of the frame you can wrap a ziptie around.
Great choice of frame, and motors, I think you are going to have a fantastic flight experience, cheers!