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Was it worth to upgrade from a 140$ Wizard to a 400$ build ?
In short words "no, but like in any hobby, your feelings will beat your brain. I really love my new quad"

Special thanks to Joshua Bardwell for helping me pick the parts through his site and videos
and Stew from UAV futures for attracting me to the quad world

Here is a link to a video in action until I figure out how to embed.

Before you read these Few words on where I did wrong with the parts, please note that I am beginner to intermediate and I don't pretend to 'know it all' ;)
If you disagree please let me know why, I am interested in your opinion.

Frame : I delaminated the 2 carbon bridges joining arms by using a hammer. I think the right way to go is to use a file set to increase the diameter of the holes before using the hammer.
Armattan got it wrong with bolts, make sure you have a extra set of attached outside the frame packaging.

Flight controller : I installed it reverse (the arrow points at the back of the quad) I was forced to do that because of the ribbon that links to the PDB/VTX is too short to be twisted.
The soft mount is not optimal because the cables coming from the ESC to the PDB are touching the soft mount and probably sending vibrations to the FC.

ESCs : I wish I had taken a 4 in 1 Aikon_32 or dlarc engine. Also I am not 100% confident with my approch of insulating the ESCs from the frame. I doubt the red electric tape is enough to prevent shorts with the frame.
For aesthetics, I decided to replace the red/black power wires with Orange at the back and black at the front. The solder joints are bad, maybe because my soldering composition is different from the one they used in factory
I also got the UART wrong to get telemetry. I used UART 1 on the PDB but it seems it is a UART to flash the VTX.

Motors : These are the only thing I got right :) Except that T-Motor got it wrong by including a wrong screw on one of the motors.

Propellers : I had motor weird noises and very bad quad behavior. I tried messing around with PIDs before I understood what was really happenning : I didn't screw the bolts hard enough so at times the motors would spin faster that the props.

FPV camera : the foxeer Predator is not for this frame. It's too small for the titanium cage. You need to add the included washers and find longer screws.

FPV transmitter : it's included with PDB and attached to the Flight controller with a ribbon. It made me think I would get a clean build but the ribbon is in fact a contraint. By choosing the orientation for the PDB, you can no longer choose the orientation of the flight controller. Why ? Because the ribbon is too short to rotate the FC without rotating the PDB.
I initially soldered the capacitor between the XT60 cables and the camera. By plugging the 1st Battery, I shorted the capacitors leads on the carbon frame and it literally exploded in flames. Luckily only the capacitors got damaged but the flame was frightning.
More on this : I think Matek got it wrong and here is how they can improve
1: instead of including 2 identical ribbons, they should include the standard one, + a pre-twisted one that allows rotating the FC by 90 or 180 degrees.
2: Put the leads of the XT60 opposite or on the same side as the antenna out. With the current configuration you are forced to choose an ugly and exposed antenna out or an ugly XT60 going out for the side of the quad. I chose the ugly exposed antenna, but won the integrated XT at the front of the quad just behind the gopro mount.
3: Place a UART Rx near the signal for each motor. That omission makes cabling ugly and complicated (soldering 4 wires on a pad was a nightmare :()

Antenna : at the time of maiden flight, I hadn't receive the stubby yet. I am using the included dipole antenna and it's OK for me. In my opinion the circular polarized antennas are way over rated anyway. I have the Foxeer ones and according to my real life tests, they are only 10% better than dipoles.

R-XSR : I thought I didn't need to wire the smart port since I have an OSD. Wrong, I still need it to control the VTx with the Taranis and perhaps to get data from the ESCs. Also the wires are too long I might shorten them now that I decided where I would fit the receiver and since I have to get telemetry from the BL_Helis

Batteries :Tatoo 75C and R-Line 95C are OK for this build. I tried the ZOP 30C on the Rooster and they cant feed the motors properly and won't live very long anyway.

Here is your checklist in case you wanna go for the XT60 plug between the battery stand and the gopro mount.
1) re-assign the resources in betaflight by swapping motor 1 with 4 and motor 2 with 3
2) Set the yaw to 180 in betaflight
3) Also note that you need to assign the 2 ESCs to 'reverse' using BLHeli_32 configurator (that is if you want all three cables of all your motors to be flat... else just invert any 2 wires feeding the motors)
To my surprise I got this configuration correct from the first attempt.

Overall, I am happy with my design in terms of parts choice and layout, however I kind of messed up some of the execution.