SAD NEWS.. I HAD A CRASH WITH THE DAYA 680 WHICH RESULTED IN SOME BROKEN CARBON AND BENT AL.. AND UNFORTUNATELY I CAN NOT RECOMMEND THIS FRAME OR OMGFLY.COM DUE TO A HORRENDOUS 5 MONTH CUSTOMER SERVICE EXPERIENCE. AFTER 2 MONTHS OF EMAILS GOING TO THEIR SPAM BOX, THEY FINALLY GOT BACK TO ME AND AFTER 3 MORE MONTHS OF EMAILS WITH WEEKS BETWEEN EACH RESPONSE, I TOLD THEM I WAS MOST INTERESTED IN THIS POINT AT PURCHASING AN ENTIRE FRAME SINCE GETTING PARTS WAS NEAR IMPOSSIBLE. I ASKED FOR A DISCOUNT IN EXCHANGE FOR THE HASSLE I HAD BEEN PUT THROUGH AND THEY OFFERED ME $5 OFF..... $1 PER MONTH OF BS..... DON'T BE LIKE ME... DON'T BUY FROM OMGFLY.COM

Storm AntiGravity Repair Parts Listings!! -->
http://www.helipal.com/ag-003-landing-skids-set.html
http://www.helipal.com/ag-005-arms-set.html
http://www.helipal.com/ag-001-main-frame-set.html

I do have a replacement frame sourced that will allow me to get readily available replacement parts. This willl be re-built on the Storm AntiGravity Platform. This is an very similar 15" folding quadcopter design. The arms are also a simple design that will be easily extended for 17 " props if i want to try those out in the future.

This is a documentation of my build of an long range aerial photography rig based on a Daya 680 folding frame. I will be using Sunnsyky x4108S 380 kv motors with 15x5.5 props, Hobbywing Xrotor 40 amp ESCs and a 6s 10000 mah battery. This will be a Naza M V2 build with a Feiyu Tech Mini 3d Pro Gimbal.

This was a pretty tight build to get all of the Naza M extra wires as well as the 4 ESCs internal to the main frame. I had to carefully plan where everything was going to go before I started cutting and soldering anything. Due to it being such a tight build I deceided not to use a PDU Board with VRegs for the lights, gimbal/camera, and VTX. Instead I built a wiring loom using silicone wire XT-30s for simplicty in building and replacing/upgrading components and used stand alone Vregs fed directly off of the flight battery. I could break this part of the harness out and power it off of a seprate battery but I didn't want to go that route for simplicity sake.

The SunnySky Motors are true pieces of art. They are beauties of the highest build quaility and they came with verrryyyy long and nice silicone wires. I ran the wires down the inside of the arms after threading them down through the motor mounts carefully on the Daya frame. Before cutting the wires i folded all the arms in order to see how much slack i would need to be able to do that then routed the power wires to the escs and cut and solders them in place.

I did some special prep work on my Hobbywing Xrotor ESCs. Due to the fact that I wanted to mount them inside of the frame for a clean build I knew I needed to have good airflow to the ESCs. I placed the escs in the rear of the frame in a upside down T kind of shape in order to isolate them from the rest of the electronics (and their noise!) and to keep the heat in rear of the frame where there should be good flow through cooling due to the design of the frame. (Front of the rear arm is open in order to be able to fold but makes a nice big air scoop) The customizing I did was to add a chunk of aluminum computer heat sink to each of the 4 escs. I bought a piece of high surface area heat sink at a local tech junk store (Shout out to http://www.surplusgizmos.com!) and sawed it into for small square pieces that I set directly on top of the existing aluminum pancake style heatsinks on the escs. I then heat shrank everything together after the final solering and positioning was all complete for a very tidy little package. I have a few pictures below of the mock ups I did to test the concept.

After getting all of the soldering done on the wiring harness and ESCs the rest pretty much came down to wire managment. The Naza M V2s are great systems in my opinion due to the fact that they are pretty much plug and play.
This convinience comes at the cost of usually having LOTS of extra cabling that now needs to be neatly coiled ziptied and routed meticuolsly in order to get every thing to close up properly. I was able to get the the CANBUS hub, PMU, and iOSD all inside the frame. I mounted the PMU to the underside of the top plate and everything else sticky taped in place on the bottom plate. The actual Naza M V2 Controler sits on top of the top plate under the white plate on standoffs along with my RC receiver. I ran the power wiring and the OSD wiring through the hole that the camera plate arms protrude through and connected every thing with servo plugs because I would like to switch to 1.3 or 2.4 video eventually.