Runcam Split Mini 3" Eclair LITE under 250g
By terranmetal on Mar 22, 2018
Build Intro ---
Intrigued with the Runcam Split Mini, it was time to build a light weight build around this new technology.
This is a duo build as a friend was building along with me as well. The backpack was printed here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2825654
This build is quite advanced and even 1mm of space cannot be spared! I had to take apart the stack a dozen times before I found the perfect height clearance. In addition the backpack was specially designed to save space as the VTX rests atop the frame. If you are worried and don't mind the extra 10g of weight, get the Eclair Pro for more height clearance.
Parts Selection ---
I was looking to make the ultimate park flyer with HD recording while staying under 250g. I chose the Eclair Lite for increased weight reduction compared to the Eclair pro. The talon f4 was the brains of the quad, allowing the latest Betaflight 3.3 features such as Runcam mini camera control, VTX control and Turtle mode! Tried and true Cicada 4 in 1 was perfect for this light weight build.
The motors although not the fastest were VERY efficient while providing enough torque. Apparently the propellers I chose were also a perfect match for the motors as well providing very low noise. Perfect for stealthy park flying, while offering enough punch for freestyle acro and thrills.
The VTX combo was designed for further reduced weight, I removed the sma antenna and direct soldered the True RC onto it.
Finally FrSky XM+ allowed me RSSI read outs as well as to get some good long range park flying.
Conclusion ---
I no longer want to fly my 5 inch or 2 inch anymore. This thing is the future!
- Stealthy flyer so no longer scaring or getting people annoyed, low noise
- HD recording so no longer any fear of losing or carrying a GoPro
- Very efficient, flight times are lasting at the minimum 5 minutes with options to cruise for 7 or more
- Low weight so stays under the radars for any laws that ban flying
Photos
Part List
Show stores (6)
Following your steps, I'm embarking on this sub 250g journey to get a drone that can (legaly) fly in the city:
https://rotorbuilds.com/build/13903
I was curious, can you use the LED pin for both led & buzzer?
Or what did you do for the buzzer? :)
Cheers!
Yeah I remember using XM+ with talon f4 which I plugged into the sbus pad.
The buzzer thing honestly was tricky for me as well and I don't think I got it working even with a remap.
If you only use a simple camera the entire stack will fit inside for sure on the lite. 1404 motors should fit botht he pro and lite.
The pro will have some much needed space for the build. Another thing to go with is either wait a bit for the Runcam split mini 2, which is a single stack HD that was teased just today, or install a caddx Turtle which is another one stack HD cam. I have it on my massive droner right now and trust me when I say you need extra space whenever. I found the microquads need extra space otherwise the components end up being too cramped and then you get random glitches in flight or stuff comes loose.
With the F.port firmware, it'll be interesting to see if the TELE/Uart3 pad on the Talon F4, works without uninverting via the R-XSR pad
(Or I'll just wait for an R9 MM with both choices).
Maybe I'll also just stick to those 1404v2 motors so as not to have to stock a variety of spares then...
I'm still trying to figure out the motor/props matching on all kind of quad sizes.
So, I understand you ended up having trouble with the split mini 1 in the LITE frame?
Was it because of heat?
And I'm definitely getting a Split Mini 2 when it comes out, cheers! :)
The 1404v2 motors work really well with rotorX props, https://www.airbladeuav.com/products/rotorx-triblade-rx-3044tx-props-3cw-3ccw?variant=46216347406
The split mini 1 is hard to fit in the first place as well as it has this ribbon cable that tends to come loose or if it gets loose in flight its gonna make your video freeze. The ribbon cable is gonna get tight there and it comes with this mounting bracket that should help secure it in place. Unfortunateely I didn't even bother to use that as there was enough space for that. Having said that, I might suggest going with the PRO frame or another frame that will have enough space to fit a split mini. I understand it can all fit in the lite, but if I were to do it all again, I would prefer the extra space.
Great job! Do the 1404 fit on the stock lite frame or did you have to make any modifications?
Its weighing 220g using 850 airblade premium 75c 4s. https://www.airbladeuav.com/products/airblade-premium-800mah-4s-14-8v-75c-xt30-by-bonka
However its also amazing that im able to get 4 minute cruise times on a 450mah 3s CHNL or tattu battery.
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Hey I'm planning to do this build and what exactly is the True Rc antenna for
Hey! The True RC antenna is for lower weight. When you buy the mach 2 VTX it will come with a larger connector so you can mount any antenna you wish. However you can also direct solder the pigtail True RC for reduced weight. You need an antenna to output video signal to your googles from your VTX.
If you choose to direct solder like I did then you will need actually strip the grounding wire, expose the transparent signal wire, and then strip again the transparent signal to expose the shiny metal antenna wire, and finally solder onto the signal/ground pads on the VTX.
It sounds harder than it is but I was able to save space and also weight by doing so.
Thanks SunnyKwok! I hope i get the parts soon to start building!
Thanks SunnyKwok! I hope i get the parts soon to start building!
Thanks Sunnykwok! I hope I get the parts soon to get building. Also, what polarization did you use?
Hello, I used Right hand polarization, RHCP. However it all depends on what you run on your googles. I find more than half of the stuff I see out there is RHCP so just match that and make sure your google receiver antennas are also RHCP.
Sorry for bothering you so much, but do you not need a PDB for this build. It seems weird because all the other builds i've done have had a PDB. Thanks!
no worries. A PDB is not required. the 4in1 esc is where the main 4s battery lead goes into, its essentially the pdb. the esc will then hook up to the fc to provide it with power. from there the fc can power the vtx and receiver and camera.
Doing a similar build, but having a hard time finding info on the Cicada 25amp 4:1. Did you direct solder the VBAT and GND leads from the Talon FC to the + and - pads on either side of the lipo leads on the ESC?
It has been awhile, but yes thats what I remember doing. The battery leads go to esc and I just run two thin gauge wires from there onto the VBAT and GND leads. The FC should be able to take direct 2s-4s.
OK, that's what i figured. Thanks for the response.