Upgrading my Stingy 6" to 6S since I was finding things rather lackluster on 4S.

Good:

I was worried 1900kV on 6S would be ridiculous - it's actually been pretty mellow. I am pleasantly surprised.

Flies very nicely, zippy and responsive without the laginess I was finding on 4S.

Surprisingly low amp draw - 15-20A cruising and peaking around 50A doing some mild freestyle, although I haven't pushed it hard yet. I may also push the PIDs up further.

Got that 6" stopping ability that I was looking for. I found myself ballooning on corners so it's definitely got a decent amount of thrust.

Feels nice and planted.

The LED's are nice and bright. Crashed 1/4 mile away in grass and could still see the quad.

Bad:

It ain't cheap.

Cam noise is not awful but not great either. Seems to settle after a few seconds though. Powering cam off Unify and there is a 220uf 35v cap on the FC.

The battery is a little too short for two straps and is a little slippery, so I've ended up replacing the battery pad with velcro to stop the battery shifting. You could also try the Ummagawd pad.

The Kakute F4 goes to 100% CPU load when trying to switch the Gyro to 32/32. You can get 50% load on 32/16 with the CPU oc'd to 240mhz but I've left it on 16/16 @ 192mhz @ ~25% load for now.

I'd recommend the fixed Session mount over the adjustable - honestly it's just an unnecessary annoyance.

The skids and the mount mean you need a 9mm screw for the motors.

I was getting crappy RSSI with the antennas at 90° on the back in the antenna mount, so have switched to mounting on the arms. I suspect the vTx antenna was too close.

Ugly:

Important! I nearly smoked the motors trying stock PIDs initially. Turn that P-Gain waaay down.

Provisional PIDs (more tuning to do but these were a good start):
25 45 25
30 45 25
40 45

Butterflight 4.2 w/ Fast Kalman

Kakute F4 also only has 16mb flash memory, so you're getting a BB log for your first flight only unless you set up a switch to erase it, which is making tuning difficult AND I don't have a spare switch.

The Eagle 2 does not fit well in the Stingy. Minimum cam angle is ~30°. Less would require filing out the holes. It's also a little narrower than the plates so a washer is required on one side. I would recommend an Eagle mini if you want 16:9, for which you will need this: https://www.brain3d.co/products/xhover-stingy-front-bumper-micro-cam-mount?variant=42777434128

This thing shakes stuff loose! After just a couple of packs I'd lost a frame screw and half the motor screws were loose . Loktite is a must.

It unscrewed a prop - twice. The lock nuts that come with the EMAX motors are quite tall and the nylon doesn't run far enough down the thread to properly engage with the thick-hubbed cyclones on, although this wasn't a problem with the slightly thinner-hubbed HQ 6x4's. Luckily I had some lower-profile nuts handy, see parts list.