First FPV drone ever, so ...
bear with me, this is going to be a trial & error festival! ;-)
Parts also bought to start (ie: not part of the drone itself, but to start...):
- X9D SE https://www.getfpv.com/frsky-2-4g-16ch-taranis-x9d-plus-transmitter-special-edition-w-m9-gimbals.html
- EV800D Goggles https://www.getfpv.com/eachine-ev800d-5-8g-40ch-diversity-fpv-goggles-with-dvr.html
- Motor wrench https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Realacc-Alloy-Pliers-V2-Multifunctional-Wrench-Nipper-For-Housing-Outrunner-DIY-Tools-Grip-For-RC-Models/32824498925.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.479e4c4dd0YvXQ
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Looks like you've definitely done your research - but be careful with your HV lipos. Others may have different things to say here but... Every Tattu R-Line V2 HV LiPo (whether 1300 or 1500) I bought developed a bad cell (or cells) that would drop voltage whether at storage voltage or full, in use or not, and internal resistance crept up much faster than I expected. Most of my HV packs only had a handful of cycles on them. Other brand HV Lipos did the same thing, but I invested the most in Tattu. I was meticulous about keeping tabs on them and wouldn't get another HV unless some new information led me to believe that the composition, construction, or perhaps manufacturing facility standards had changed for the better.
Excited to see how it flies - I've got a build using that GPS coming up soon as well.
Thanks for the hints, I've only charged the HV to 4.25V and we'll see how that goes.
I'm yet to solder the GPS as I wanted to fly it first, which should happen this weekend if I don't screw up anything again haha.
I'm going to build a similar drone, but on a Martian II frame as I wanted to compare how that could affect the experience. I'm also trying to do a sub 250g next to fly in town (Canada).
What build are you aiming for? :)
I've got parts coming in for a 10" Hildagard frame, 3115 1050kV motors, hopefully 6s. My goal to build something that could carry heavier cameras/gimbals for longer flights but still be fun to fly (compared to 6/7"). 10"+ seem to be a challenge to tune (or so I've seen), but I'm excited to try it out.
I switched my 5" and 6" Rooster arms out for the Chameleon Ti mainplate, I really like the way these frames go together, they fly great too - real solid. Alien/Martian style frames seem to offer more flexibility with the build layout though, lots of space.
Hope your first flights go well!
Guides & Reviews
AirbladeUAV has done it again and this time they've brought long range to the 5" class! Based on the popular Transformer Mini, the new Transformer 5" Ultralight adopts a lot of the same design philosophies with larger props and more payload capacity. It can fly upwards of 20 minutes on a 4 cell Li-Ion battery pack and in ideal conditions it's got a range of over 4 to 5 miles. In this guide I'll walk..
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With the release of the DJI FPV Drone cinematic FPV has become a lot more accessible, but you certainly don't want to crash a $750 drone! The QAV-CINE Freybott is a compact, lightweight cinematic FPV drone that can take a hit and keep going. It's a lot safer to fly indoors and around people. With a naked GoPro or the SMO 4k you can capture some great stabilized footage. In this guide I'll show you..
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Hey mate, why don't you have the ground wire connected on your Holybro Tekko32 ESC's?
It is actually, the side pad for the black wire actually connects to the smaller pad, so it's the same ground :)