I wanted a low cost but good quality build for long range 6" flight or 7", nothing crazy. The frame I used is the Iflight xl7, perfect with lots of range and room for up to 7" props. I wanted something to go long range, of course by most standards it's not a lot, just full range frsky system no Crossfire in this bad boy. I also went with a red and blue theme I think looks good with this set up.

Mounted on my frame are the Racerstar BR2507, I chose the 1800kv model from a recommendation of a friend. These motors will be spinning 6042 Gemfan props, hopefully, to get maximum efficiency.

To power those motors to start I'm using some Little Bee 30a ESC's I had on hand, but I'll be swapping to four single 35a spedix ESC's later. Also with my frame selection, I wanted to take advantage of the space to build a stack, it would be a simple task to swap out for a four in one.!

For my camera, I chose the Foxeer Monster mini pro v3, of course, you could sub in any camera here but this cam is very durable and features 1200tvl and a latency rate that is competitive with most other camera's. The vtx I chose was the classic Mach II from RaceDayQuads, featuring osd and smart audio and a max of 800mw, and I got the RaceDayQuads Mach II stack mount with mounting for a frsky XM+. The antenna I used was a cheap one I had laying around which I may change later the current antenna is a Foxeer Thor.

The final major part of this build was the FC I chose the CLRacing F4S for its AIO features and compatable for up to 6s which this whole system is 4s to 6s plug and play. This FC simply had the features I wanted for my build, there are plenty of reviews for FC's so it's really up to personal preference.

Thats the bulk of the parts for the build down of course there are some assorted parts I used I'll try to point them out.

For this build weight is important and with the frame planning is also important so to start out I'll instal my motors and measure out how long I want my motor wires are and my ESC's have direct solder pads, after I measured the wires out and cut and pre-tinned, I also measured out a length of wire braid. For me that was just paracord I had that I took the insides out of and on each end I put a small length of heatshrink to keep the braid from fraying and to make it look nice, I also decided to attach my ESC's with heatshrink to give it a nice look and keep them secure, under the ESC's I put a small foam pad to keep the ESC from having any contact with the carbon frame.

The next step was to mount the FC inside the frame and once again measure out the wires so the build look really clean. As you can see I kept my ESC's close to the frame so that I can keep everything really clean looking, next step was to solder everyting to the board in the according fashon. Then I needed to mount my camera and reciever and solder them up, I was sure to give the wires room to move but not enough to get messy. Then I soldered all the connections to the power pins on the FC and mounted the vtx and reviever into the stack mount, while here I also soldered the power imputs onto the fc and attached the antenna to the vtx.

With everything pretty much built it was time to run a multimeter over the connections to be sure to keep the magic smoke in, and then plug in my battery which is a RDQ 1500mah 4S Lipo. From here on out its software setting up with your particular tranmitter and software and there are plenty of videos on how to do that.

With this setup, I get 14+ minutes of cruising flight and 4-8 minutes freestyle. I think since all components for the build are 6s compatable that it may be a good investment in the future to add the 6s to really open up this builds potential.