Little Frog

By nulldragon on Oct 27, 2018

3  304  6

The Little Frog

A budget built FrogLite basic racing quad.

Frame construction

Assemble the two plates with the arms, make not that the longer arms are towards the front.
We only need 2 screws & nuts at the moment, (lock nuts down, longer screws up for esc and flight controller to mount on)
It also pays to fit the battery strop to before everything is put together.

Attaching the motors

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Mount motors onto frame. I suggest using blue loctite for extra security.
Trim the wires to about half length, solder on additional 20AWG wire so they can reach your esc then heatshrink the joins

Fit the braided wire wrap and two lots of additional heatshrink for ends of wire mesh. (don't shrink it just yet)

Once the ESC is in place, cut motor wires to correct length, solder wires to ESC and then position the braided wire wrap.

Move heat shrink to each end of wire mesh and shrink.

This leaves you with a fairly tidy and ridget bundle of wires that don't need to be zip tied down.
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At this point you will want to put your battery connector wires through the frame and solder them on. Add an optional low ESR capacitor to help with any noise. (I potted mine with two part epoxy to help with vibrations causing stress.

Wiring up the flight controller

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Trim and join the ESC 8pin plug to the 7pin plug of the flight controller.

Snip the camera lead to a comforatble amount (40-50mm) solder to video in pin + power pins. make not of the power jumper and change to 10v if required.

Then trim the video tx lead to a similar length, and finally size up your recieve wire. The benefit of f.port really pays off here, three wires to get telemetry and 16 channels is excellent.

Position Peripherals

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Now all the connectors are attached to the flight controller we will need to get everything mounted in the frame.

Assemble the top of the frame, screw in the camera, taking care to get it up the right way.
Then with some double sided tap stick the receiver in between esc and flight controller with antena lead towards the tail of the craft.

With some more double sided tap and cable ties stick the vtx so it points out the back of the craft.

Add heat shrink to the connector to stop it loosening and shorting with the carbon fiber frame
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Notes

  • The racerstar motor wires are too short out of the box.
  • Heat shrink anything you think may short.
  • Flash the latest beta flight firmware before you start.
  • The camera fits in the frame perfectly, however if you mount the alumninium parts the wrong way it wont fit. (Found this out first hand)
  • I had to take the flight controller off to mount the receiver in between, also make sure the wrap the reiver in heatshrink so nothing shorts out. Its probably a good idea to bind and set the receiver fail safe while its all apart.
  • Don't put the top on before you power up and test your video, as its a pain to change vtx channels when fully assembled.
  • Make sure you flash your reciever with the f.port version of firmware before assmebly.
  • Check the direction of all motors, if you need to swap any Blheli-Configurator is the tool you want. I had some issues once I swapped a few esc directions and had to set ESC's to pwn restart then back to DSHOT600 to get it to work.

Betaflight Configuration Tweaks

Set gyro to the faster ICM20602

set gyro_to_use = SECOND
save

The reciever (X4R-SB - flashed with f.Port) firmware attaches to TX4 (near vtx)
Set Serial Rx on UART 4 (Ports tab) disable any other Serial Rx

Configure f.port via betaflight command line with the following

set serialrx_halfduplex = ON
set serialrx_inverted = ON
save

more info on fport

Motor mapping with 4 in 1 esc

Motors 2 and 3 are transposed. So we need to run the following commands more info here

resource list

take note of the numbers by MOTOR 2 and MOTOR 3 in this case we had C07 and C08 so we swap them with the following

resource motor 2 C08
resource motor 3 C07
save

There may be a warning about overlapping mapping, but after a save and reload the motors should be correctly mapped.
I strongly suggest powering off and then verifying this with the motor tab in betaflight with a battery so you can check motor directions etc. (no props to be safe)

Configuration Tab

Set ESC motors to DSHOT 600

System Config
Enable gyro 32k,
Set loop times to 16k/16k (as 32k results in 100% cpu)

Turn on Telemetry & Barometer
Enable dynamic filtering

Photos

Part List

Frame

TransTEC Frog Lite 218mm Carbon Fiber 4mm Arm X Frame DIY Frame Kit RC Drone FPV Racing Multi Rotor (42 builds)
Banggood.com
$29.99

Flight Controller

DALRC F722 DUAL STM32F722RGT6 F7 Flight Controller MPU6000 and ICM20602 Built-in OSD for RC Drone (14 builds)
Banggood.com
$42.99

ESCs

Rcharlance 35A 4 IN 1 BLHeli_S Dshot600 2-6S ESC For RC Drone FPV Racing Multi Rotor (2 builds)
Banggood.com
$27.99

Motors

4X Racerstar Racing Edition 2306 BR2306S 2400KV 2-4S Brushless Motor For X210 X220 250 for RC Drone FPV Racing (9 builds)
Banggood.com
$35.49

Propellers

10 Pairs Racerstar Fish Bone 5041 3 Blade Racing Propeller for Racing (2 builds)
Banggood.com
$3.99

FPV Camera

Banggood (130 builds)
Banggood.com
$15.45

FPV Transmitter

Eachine TX526 5.8G 40CH 25MW/200MW/600MW Switchable AV Wireless FPV Transmitter RP-SMA Female (120 builds)
Banggood.com
$12.92

Antenna

Realacc 5.8G 5dBi 50W Omni Directional Omni FPV Pagoda Antenna LHCP/RHCP SMA/RP-SMA For FPV RC Drone (52 builds)
Banggood.com
$3.76

Receiver

FrSky X4R-SB 2.4G 16CH ACCST Telemetry Receiver Naked (176 builds)
Banggood.com
$27.99

Batteries

AHTECH Infinity 4S 14.8V 1500mAh 85C Graphene LiPo Battery XT60 Support 15C Boosting Charger (81 builds)
Banggood.com
$25.67

Radio

FrSky Taranis X9D Plus (52 builds)
Fpvheadquarters.com
$164.99

Goggles

Aomway Commander V1 w/DVR
Fpvquads.com.au
$414.95

Misc Parts

Self-closing Braided Wire Wrap - 6mm x 2m
Jaycar.com.au
$6.95

Radio Module

FrSky ACCESS R9M2019 Long Range Module System
Horusrc.com
$29.99

Battery Charger

ToolkitRC M8 DC 300W 15A Battery Balance Charger Discharger for 2-8S Lipo Battery (17 builds)
Banggood.com
$36.99
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Discussion

Sign in to comment

Chris Z   Jan 14, 2019  

Hi there, just built a new quad with the same ESC which seems to be a clone of the Racerstar REV35.
Do you kow the correct scale for the current sensor in Betaflight?
I can't get the current sensor to work properly in BF 3.5.4 with a Omnibus F4 V5.
For the REV35 scale is reported to be around 250 which gives me 12A when idle so it's not correct.
Thanks!

nulldragon   Feb 02, 2019 

I've currently got mine set to 260, I think the resisters they use for the current sensing must be pretty low quality, I would suggest trial and error. I used a bench top power supply to try and get a scale that is somewhat close. Its still out by 10-20%

I also had a lose current wire which was giving all sorts of weird values.

Chris Z   Feb 03, 2019 

That's very interesting, thank's a lot for the info!
As i'm getting 12A when idle on 250 scale and going to 260 does not change much i'd even go as far as saying that the current sensing resistors are completely useless.
Played around with offset etc. it just does not work right... too high amps when idle, too little amps when flying.
I highly regret using this cloned peace of junk in my latest build, even the Racerstar REV35 would have been cheaper and has a working current sensor.
Well, lesson learned... again.. lol
Thank's and happy flying!

nulldragon   Feb 23, 2019 

Cloned stuff is always hit and miss.
The QA process for these kind of things is pretty non-existant.
I picked that ESC up for about $20 cheaper than the racerstar, if it was a similiar price i wouldn't have bothered.

Whiffles   Oct 28, 2018  

Nice work on the build and the write-up! How does it fly?

nulldragon   Oct 29, 2018 

Thanks! I'm a bit of a novice when it comes to flying (first time in two years, and first time fpv with a decent set of googles)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ck3HArTl4YY&t=180s
I think my CG was a bit off, and I need to see what the other gyro flys like. This F7 board is so cool.

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