A budget built FrogLite basic racing quad.
Assemble the two plates with the arms, make not that the longer arms are towards the front.
We only need 2 screws & nuts at the moment, (lock nuts down, longer screws up for esc and flight controller to mount on)
It also pays to fit the battery strop to before everything is put together.
Mount motors onto frame. I suggest using blue loctite for extra security.
Trim the wires to about half length, solder on additional 20AWG wire so they can reach your esc then heatshrink the joins
Fit the braided wire wrap and two lots of additional heatshrink for ends of wire mesh. (don't shrink it just yet)
Once the ESC is in place, cut motor wires to correct length, solder wires to ESC and then position the braided wire wrap.
Move heat shrink to each end of wire mesh and shrink.
This leaves you with a fairly tidy and ridget bundle of wires that don't need to be zip tied down.
At this point you will want to put your battery connector wires through the frame and solder them on. Add an optional low ESR capacitor to help with any noise. (I potted mine with two part epoxy to help with vibrations causing stress.
Trim and join the ESC 8pin plug to the 7pin plug of the flight controller.
Snip the camera lead to a comforatble amount (40-50mm) solder to video in pin + power pins. make not of the power jumper and change to 10v if required.
Then trim the video tx lead to a similar length, and finally size up your recieve wire. The benefit of f.port really pays off here, three wires to get telemetry and 16 channels is excellent.
Now all the connectors are attached to the flight controller we will need to get everything mounted in the frame.
Assemble the top of the frame, screw in the camera, taking care to get it up the right way.
Then with some double sided tap stick the receiver in between esc and flight controller with antena lead towards the tail of the craft.
With some more double sided tap and cable ties stick the vtx so it points out the back of the craft.
Add heat shrink to the connector to stop it loosening and shorting with the carbon fiber frame
Set gyro to the faster ICM20602
set gyro_to_use = SECOND
save
The reciever (X4R-SB - flashed with f.Port) firmware attaches to TX4 (near vtx)
Set Serial Rx on UART 4 (Ports tab) disable any other Serial Rx
Configure f.port via betaflight command line with the following
set serialrx_halfduplex = ON
set serialrx_inverted = ON
save
Motors 2 and 3 are transposed. So we need to run the following commands more info here
resource list
take note of the numbers by MOTOR 2 and MOTOR 3 in this case we had C07 and C08 so we swap them with the following
resource motor 2 C08
resource motor 3 C07
save
There may be a warning about overlapping mapping, but after a save and reload the motors should be correctly mapped.
I strongly suggest powering off and then verifying this with the motor tab in betaflight with a battery so you can check motor directions etc. (no props to be safe)
Set ESC motors to DSHOT 600
System Config
Enable gyro 32k,
Set loop times to 16k/16k (as 32k results in 100% cpu)
Turn on Telemetry & Barometer
Enable dynamic filtering
Nice work on the build and the write-up! How does it fly?
Thanks! I'm a bit of a novice when it comes to flying (first time in two years, and first time fpv with a decent set of googles)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ck3HArTl4YY&t=180s
I think my CG was a bit off, and I need to see what the other gyro flys like. This F7 board is so cool.
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Hi there, just built a new quad with the same ESC which seems to be a clone of the Racerstar REV35.
Do you kow the correct scale for the current sensor in Betaflight?
I can't get the current sensor to work properly in BF 3.5.4 with a Omnibus F4 V5.
For the REV35 scale is reported to be around 250 which gives me 12A when idle so it's not correct.
Thanks!
I've currently got mine set to 260, I think the resisters they use for the current sensing must be pretty low quality, I would suggest trial and error. I used a bench top power supply to try and get a scale that is somewhat close. Its still out by 10-20%
I also had a lose current wire which was giving all sorts of weird values.
That's very interesting, thank's a lot for the info!
As i'm getting 12A when idle on 250 scale and going to 260 does not change much i'd even go as far as saying that the current sensing resistors are completely useless.
Played around with offset etc. it just does not work right... too high amps when idle, too little amps when flying.
I highly regret using this cloned peace of junk in my latest build, even the Racerstar REV35 would have been cheaper and has a working current sensor.
Well, lesson learned... again.. lol
Thank's and happy flying!
Cloned stuff is always hit and miss.
The QA process for these kind of things is pretty non-existant.
I picked that ESC up for about $20 cheaper than the racerstar, if it was a similiar price i wouldn't have bothered.