THIS FC IS NOT FOR RAPIDFIRE GOGGLE MODULES, if you want a hud.

Let me explain, they used sub standard parts for the HUD electronics, if you run in rapidfire mode 1 or 2 you get really noisy video. If you run legacy mode on your module it works great.

For those who have followed my last build, Master Splitter, you will see it found a car tire at the end of its life. One of my best friends ran it over completely by mistake.

Like I discovered in the first build, this frame can be a tight fit. I ran things similarly to my first build, with some tweaks here and there, you know lessons learned from hands on experience.

After many broken straps at the hands of the carbon fiber frame, in this version, I chamfered the edges where the battery strap goes under the FC. I hope this will alleviate some battery breakage. This also made me realize a beeper is great, but when the battery isn't there, you get no beeper. So, I opted for the hellgate beeper which does work when the battery is separated from the quad.

I'm guessing runcam updated the hardware that comes with the Split 2 because this time the fit of the camera mounting bracket had plenty of space between the stack and the camera mount.

I made a mistake and lifted the LED pad, but not to be deterred, and not wanting to buy another FC at the moment, I forged airward. Some of my pictures don't reflect this change. The relevant pictures are there, except maybe how I mounted my VTx, which was on the bottom of the top plate, with zipties and double sided sticky tape.

There were some interesting things I wanted to do this go round with this particular FC.
1) I want to use the Smart Audio on my TBS VTx.
2) I have a spektrum transmitter and can only use the one non-inverted port on the FC
3) LED's
4) Runcam Support on the OSD

The only non inverted port is Tx6/Rx6. Well that has caused some confusion and perhaps some issues. So now I'm stuck with picking only 2 of those things, at the moment. Once I have a better understanding I might revise some things.

However, here's what I did to overcome some obstacles:
1) I found the hardware inverter on the board and used that for my receiver (DSMX). This is the solution this board needs to be nearly perfect, minus my mistakes.
2) I soldered my receiver onto the transistor that does the hardware inversion.
3) I used the TX6 pad for SmartAudio.

The frame being a tight squeeze and me being a novice builder, I think this version is much better.

The first picture has an orange wire going to a transistor, THAT is the hardware inverter on this board. If you use this board and use a similar receiver to the DMSX style, this may open options up for you to add features you want in your build.

The shine on everything is from conformal coating.

If you have questions, please ask, I will do my best to answer.

UPDATE: As I've been flying and tuning I've included my gyro noise for you guys to look at. The picture that has the higher noise around 300HZ is my roll gyro. If I understood everything correctly for getting blackbox, this is unfiltered gyro noise.