As my first Hyperlow CG 5" build went up in full flames mid air on the third pack (most probably) due to a faulty Hobbywing G2 AIO ESC - I hereby present the new Hyperlow CG "Project Fønix" (Norwegian for phoenix). The phoenix obtains new life by arising from the ashes of its predecessor and according to some sources, the phoenix also dies in a big show of flames and combustion. Uh-oh...

I decided to take new chance with another HW G2 45A AIO ESC and FC stack as I really liked the intitial idea of the clean wiring it makes possible when combined with the Hyperlow frame. The stack has had a bit of mixed reviews, a lot of people really love it and put it in all their builds, while others seem to point to the numerous reports of it blowing up (as I have experienced first hand as well). Oh well.

With the HW G2 FC, all cables from the VTX and most of the camera cables get routed directly via the connector cable attaching to the FC. Futhermore, when this is combined with TBS Unify HV specifically which takes care of all the the other wiring to the camera (Runcam Eagle 2 Pro) you get in sum one big connector cable with three ends, one end going into the HW G2 FC, one end into the Unify and one end into the Runcam. What is not so good though is you will need to solder together/splice cables, which some may regard as less desirable than soldering directly to FCs. That being said, this solution is extremely well suited for the Hyperlow CG frame layout as all cables can be neatly tucked away underneath the stack, VTX and RX due to Hyperlows great "mounting plate" system. Servicablity is also super as you can easily detach and replace any damaged components without new soldering (except RX cabling that is if the FC goes, which is the only wires soldered directly to the FC).

I truly love Hyperlow frames and have been eyeing these frames for quite some time for my first proper build from scratch (technically the second build now I guess) as it strives for low CG and features really thoughful design for enabling a really clean build.

Mounting plates are situated in the area in front and behind the FC/ESC so as mentioned it is possible to rout cables underneath components. This also includes motor cables coming off the arms which also can enter into the main body of the frame from underneath the mounting plates. This would not have been possible if specific consideration had not been put into even how the arms are designed and bolted to the actual body. The end of the arm going into the main body has an in a oval form (for a lack of a better description) which gives room for this particular cable routing. You really got to hand it to Richard Howarth of Hyperlow. With the CG form really follows function.

But with this particular form also comes sexy. The whole thing is a true thing of beauty. The carbon has a matte finish and features chamfered edges. It's so so sexy. Got to love chamfered edges. The frame quality is just top notch and proper solid.

And by the way, the Fønix flies like a absolute dream. :D Luckily no big show of flames and combustion so far this time around after 6 flights.

Lessons learned from my first buidl to the new Fønix:

• The Hypetrain motor wires were just barely long enough for an AIO ESC at least on the Hyperlow CG, making them somewhat difficult to solder to the ESC. I had to lenghten them to get them long enough in my initial build. Having stripped down length and reused these motors in my new Fønix build, I decided to rout the wires though cable sleeving to effectively hide the solder joints. This of course also helps protect the wires from prop strikes, and it turned out to look pretty good as well. (Note to self: check motor wire length when purchasing motors)
• The HW stack comes with two capasitors, one big and one small. I used the small one in my previous build, and I installed the big 1000uf cap this time around even though I will be flying mostly 4S. I wanted the option to be futureproof for 6S down the line, altough I will need different motors as the Hypetrain's KV is not suited for 6S. Interestingly the last HW stack packaging said to use the small cap with 4 and 5S and the big for 6S. The new stack I got had a sticker that said exclusively that the big cap must be used. Interesting.
• As the ESC and FC is pretty tightly fitted its not a bad idea to add some extra isolation.

PS. I've included the wiring diagram I made for the FC. Hope it can be useful for someone considering this particular component config. :)