Tehllama Fluffy Unicorn 2150KV 2208 6" Floss2.1

By tehllama on Jun 25, 2019

4  140  4

This is an artifact of settling on my template for my 2019 racing setup, and something closer to what I'd actually recommend for newer pilots.

This is the ultimate versatility option:. It really does it all.

6" frame 6S-Ready setups, which can be very easily used with 5", 5.5", or 6" propellers, and used with 4S, 5S, and 6S batteries.

This flexibility allows for virtually any type of flying, although the weight of these motors, and some of my somewhat unnecessary bling options has resulted in reduced crash durability, and making this a bit portly for a precision racing setup. The upside is that these super-powerful motors make this one of the fastest setups I have for wide open courses.

The frame is a 6" Floss 2.1. The canopy is a PHX-3D Solutions Canopy, and I've added Purple PyroWire LEDs in addition to an extra CJMCU 8-LED panel on the back. I'm still partial to running DAL T5046C props in clear purple (although I also really like how it flies on Gemfan 5149's - and Gemfan 5146.6 props). This also works quite well with Gemfan 6042 props (biblade and triblade), and also is a great testbed for the Banggood 6055x3 props - which are really cheap, but not the most efficient or grippy... just fast. The other surprise revelation is how good the 5552 props are - especially compared to the 5152 props on which they're based.
The pictures here don't do it justice for how good it looks with any of those propellers in any kind of lighting.

The flight control stack is all I'd change (I'd run the PyroF4/Furling or PyroF4/35A stack). In this case, I'm rolling on a Cicada 6S 30A, which is excellent, and a Furibee F4 V5. Yup, still a solid flight controller if you add capacitors to the 5V rail and soft-mount it, but these aren't in stock anymore, and most importantly lack the ability to use smartaudio OR a Pit PinI/O switch to turn off video.
I've added the big honking 35V 1000uF capacitor on there, and spent a lot of that troubleshooting a failed DMA channel as a result from a fire using a cheaper 4-in-1 ESC. Still, this FC soldiers on, even though I'm using the TX6 pad to control Motor #3

As a practical consideration, run the 2208 XING version in 2150KV - this setup is phenomenal.

Practically speaking, on 6S this rig is already extremely fast, especially given the weight. It feels like I have to plan an extra half second ahead because of the extra weight, but it has so much power it's like trying to race a muscle car on a road course. I actually have put some of my best times with this on 5S with 6" GF6042 propellers, which have big disk area and are surprisingly agile despite the high AUW.

I've had this build going strong for the last eight or so months, but only now gotten around to proper photos. This isn't the most photogenic setup in my fleet, and has had a few spells waiting on replacement arms, motors, or updating cameras, but it has been one of the true workhorses in my fleet, being able to do it all this one is often called upon to finish a day of racing - especially if I've broken another quad, or am left with a few batteries that need discharging, this can always put on a great performance with those.


Part List


Hyperlite 3mm Bottom Plate For Floss 2.1 (3 builds)


2 x Replacement 6 inch 5mm Arm For Floss 2.1 (3 builds)

Flight Controller

Rcharlance F4 Pro V2 30.5x30.5mm Omnibus F4 Flight Controller OSD BEC AIO 40CH 25/200/600/800mW VTX (3 builds)


Sunrise Cicada 6S 30A 4-in-1 ESC (5 builds)


4 x Tachyon T2207 Racing Motor (5 builds)


Gemfan Flash 6042-3 Tri prop (5 builds)

FPV Camera

Caddx Turbo Micro SDR1 FPV Camera (21 builds)


Realacc RHCP Super mini UXII Stubby 5.8GHz 1.6dBi FPV Antenna For TX RX Fatshark Goggles RC Drone (41 builds)


Flysky X6B 2.4G 6CH i-BUS PPM PWM Ontvanger voor AFHDS i10 i6s i6 i6x i4x zender (13 builds)
See Site


Chinahobbyline CNHL Ministar 1250mAh 6s 70c Lipo Battery [DG] (5 builds)
See Site


CNHL G+PLUS 1300mAh 18.5V 5S 100C Lipo Battery (13 builds)


FrSky Taranis QX7 ACCESS 2.4GHz RC Transmitter - Choose Your Color (263 builds)


Flysight FPV Goggles 5.8Ghz Diverity Video Goggles SPX02 40CH Wireless RC Drone Racing Goggles with HDMI in and PIP Function DJI

Video Receiver

ClearView 5.8 Ghz Pro Receiver - ClearView Factory Direct

Radio Module

iRangeX IRX4 Plus 2.4G CC2500 NRF24L01 A7105 CYRF6936 4 IN 1 Multiprotocol STM32 TX Module With Case (5 builds)

Battery Charger

ISDT SC-608 150W 8A MINI Smart LCD Battery Balance Charger AU Warehouse (14 builds)

Soldering Iron

TS100 Portable Programmable Smart Soldering Iron (265 builds)


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Bergyb   Sep 18, 2019  

Is the 30A ESC enough for an 6S on the 2208 2150kv motor?
Are you using a throttle curve, and what props?
Are you setting Rampup Power in BLHeliSuite32 to protect the ESC?

Nice builds, and thank you for your information!

tehllama   Sep 18, 2019 

That 6S 30A ESC holds up on this setup, handles 6S 7" quads, and does 5S 2400KV 2207's without much fuss.
I do run throttle curves, mostly 94% when I want full power, 84% on 6S for 2150KV with most props, and when I'm trying for longer flight times (or struggling with tracks) I'll bump it down to the 74% mode.
I do use that feature on every BLHeli32 ESC I have - on this, it's just a BLHeli_s one, and it handles that fairly well.

Bergyb   Sep 18, 2019 

Do you prefer 6", 5" or a hybrid for racing?
Longer arms give quad more control even when using 5" props but you loose on durability and responsiveness (if using smaller props), because the end point has to take longer path.

tehllama   Sep 18, 2019 

For pure racing, all the props I like best ar 5" or 5.1" - which makes the hybrid setups super-appealing.
For a dual-sport type setup (cruising, long range, hauling a DJI FPV system, etc.) 6" arms are incredibly appealing, especially on mid-KV motors. If they exist only to race, I've been migrating those to hybrid setups.
Ironically, on all my hybrid builds I keep breaking the front 5" arms in crashes while the rear 6" arms are always fine.
On my 20x20 stack builds, the Neutron-R Hybrid (5" SX Front, 6" TX Rear) makes that work extremely well, but I haven't bashed those around enough to know what the durability envelope is, it's just really high.
As far as the hybrid geometry I feel like the motors/props can make up enough torque pretty quickly to overcome that increased moment from being farther out, but the cleaner air on the props makes all the difference in smoothness. Blackbox logs seem to support this too, as I'm never hitting that motor saturation point where it is sending disproportionately larger motor signals than its ability to track setpoint, meaning it's got the torque to respond - the improvement is that I'm seeing less overshoot and feel more confident when placing the quad into tighter moves so I'm faster (although it might be as much to do with being more confident lets me commit and be on the throttle, which also helps mitigate that).

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