Fatshark Mods 🦈

By sergetania on Apr 10, 2019

11  1,946  0

I hope someone will find this useful.

For most, it's the absence of a power button. For me, plugging and unplugging a balance lead to get the fan going is actually the worst, then having a battery on the side of my head, finally followed by the power button. All that after spending $500!

Slaytech extension cable is actually a good product but it doesn't solve the balance lead issue and adds another barrel connector that needs to be plugged in. It appears it's not that difficult to address both problems.

If you decide to follow the description below, please be very careful to avoid ruining your very expensive goggles. Always check and double check polarity with a multimeter. Use the continuity mode to check for shorts before plugging in. Also, the warranty will probably be void with these mods.

Pry open one of the two black covers of the 18650 battery case. It has two screws through it - I have found it out after opening it. You should locate the screws under the label. Alt Tag

Cut off the balance lead and barrel connector from the extension cable. Isolate whatever is left of the balance lead wires on the extension cable NOW (make sure the two wires never connect)
Alt Tag

Remove the board from the case and unsolder the old wires from it. The terminals on the board are marked Batt- (with black wires) and Batt+(red wires). Solder the extension cable wires along with leads that go to the battery contacts to the board. The extension cable wires are red and black. Still, check the polarity! Outside of the barrel connector is ground, inside is positive. Tack the board and wires back in.
Alt Tag
Alt Tag
Close the battery case.
Alt Tag

On to the goggles! You don't need to fully open them to solder the cut-off balance lead to the power connector inside of the goggles. Just popup the face plate and open a cover near the power connector. Unscrew two screws - one from the bottom of the goggles below the cover you just opened and another one holding the board inside the bay. Now pry open one side of the goggles, remove the strap and the electronic board that has the power connector on it.
Alt Tag
Insert the cut-off lead through a hole in the side where the strap attaches to the goggles. Solder the lead to the connector contacts from the bottom of the board. Use a multimeter to determine polarity of the contacts! Insert the board in and screw the screws back in (see the red and black wires on the back in the picture)
Alt Tag
Attach the face plate, the strap and plug in the lead in to the fan connector and LEAVE IT THERE. No more unplugging! Alt Tag

It's done! Enjoy!
Alt Tag



Sign in to comment

Guides & Reviews

30 2,649  27
24 days ago

A couple years ago I built the TransTEC Frog and since then I've been patiently waiting for another TransTEC frame to catch my eye. Fast forward to today and the TransTEC Laser S is that frame. It's a 82g racing frame that features 6mm arms, a TPU micro cam mount, 30.5mm and 20mm stack mounts and 3K carbon and 7075 hardware. My goal here was to build a high quality 6S racer at a reasonable price. I'd..

Read more
Apr 17, 2019

This is the 4th installment to my popular "Wizard Killer" series, and is based on the popular Wizard X220HV 6S. As usual, the goal was to build a substantially better quad, yet come in below the retail price of the BNF kit. Here are some of the improvements: Higher quality EMAX ECO 2306 1700kv motors Foxeer's top-of-the-line Falkor mini camera Eachine 25mw-1000mw Leaf VTX with microphone Tools This..

Read more