FRZRBRNv2
By freezurbern on Jun 24, 2019
This is my second 5" quad, this time I chose the components myself instead of following a build video. More photos and perhaps a video coming soon, once I've figured out tuning. Right now, I am very twitchy and need less power.
WIP / Improvements:
- Diagnose cold soldering iron - Very difficult to solder my XT60 power leads.
- Use heatshrink tube or paramax instead of huge zipties for cable management. As an IT tech, this is embarassing.
- Mount camera with screws instead of a ziptie.
- Get goggles, instead of a receiver plugged into a smartphone.
Part List
Show stores (7)Guides & Reviews
AirbladeUAV has done it again and this time they've brought long range to the 5" class! Based on the popular Transformer Mini, the new Transformer 5" Ultralight adopts a lot of the same design philosophies with larger props and more payload capacity. It can fly upwards of 20 minutes on a 4 cell Li-Ion battery pack and in ideal conditions it's got a range of over 4 to 5 miles. In this guide I'll walk..
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With the release of the DJI FPV Drone cinematic FPV has become a lot more accessible, but you certainly don't want to crash a $750 drone! The QAV-CINE Freybott is a compact, lightweight cinematic FPV drone that can take a hit and keep going. It's a lot safer to fly indoors and around people. With a naked GoPro or the SMO 4k you can capture some great stabilized footage. In this guide I'll show you..
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I see you are afraid to cut your wires down to size. Let me give you some practical encouragement: parts rattling around can cause "noise" that confuses your gyro, and makes your quad move erratically. Also: mount that battery in the middle bruh! It's the heaviest part, it should be as close to the "center" of your craft as possible! You are loading your rear motors (much more than the front) making it lift the battery, and that limits your quad dramatically. If your quad needs to, for example, roll left: your rear right motor is expending, say, 20% of it's total max output just holding up the battery, so it can ONLY add 80%. That's going to make your FC limit the throttle of the front motor on that side to 80% as well. If you had the battery in the middle, and all the motors only need 5% power to hold up the evenly distributed load, then both the motors on the right would be able to apply 95% throttle for that same roll.
Thank you for your advice! I was indeed afraid to trim the wires, but now that it is built I will take your advice and trim them up. While mounting my battery, I did not consider the effect on maximum motor output. However, I am struggling to mount my battery in the middle because my stack is so close to the top plate.
Do you have any input on a better way to mount the battery in the center without scraping my FC with my battery strap? Thanks again!
You could use shorter spacers in your stack, but I can't see what it looks like, so i'm not 100% sure that's safe A good pic of both sides of yor stack would help). You might use taller standoffs, but that's a bit of a hassle, you would need a new camera mount, since your camera plates wouldn't be tall enough. If youhave access to a 3D printer that's easy enought to do. While lifiting up your top plate does raise your battery, anything up to 35mm cam be made to handle INCREDIBLY well (despite what current trends might indicate). Do you have a 3rd board in your center stack? The buzzer?Is your reciever in the middle? Could you move it somewhere else in the frame to get the space you need? I just can't really say without a picture to work from.