This is my second 3 inch build. The first one has been the QAV-Code Red which is also presented here in another build. When I broke a arm of the Code Red I realized that the Bottom Plate alone is not easily available in Europe and I also don't want to spent more then 30€ each time a break a arm. Looking for an alternative Frame makes me falling in love with the Micro Reverb .. so here war are.
What I like most is the compact design, the cheap arms and the easily available spare parts. At first, my plan was to reuse as much as possible from the Code Red but then bought also a new Mamba stack as there has been a offer from Banggood and everyone seems to be exited about the noise characteristics. I also bought a new camera and VTX antenna. The rest is the same gear I have already used before.
Regarding VTX antennas .. I have used Lumenier Micro AXII UFL so far but ALL of them broke in more or less harmless crashes (4 pieces so during this summer, but one of them on this frame). I also have a regular SMA AXII which isn't working anymore but I can't remember a hard crash with it .. So I'm seriously disappointed on their reliability. The Lollipop is now in duty for aprox. 20 packs and still fine!
Regarding the RunCam Phoenix Oscar Edition ... Never have had camera which was good as this one before!! OK there are sometimes some digital artifacts, but on the other side the WDR is awesome and It adopts new light conditions so fast that they are never a issue again! And in the end it's all about to see where you are flying to!
Regarding the TBS Unify Pro32 Nano ... It's just WOW .. I have almost no noise, amazing range and it survived 4 broken/disconnected Antennas in crash situations while it was powered on. So buying this one a second time to have a spare part at hand was useless so far. I plan to use my "spare" it in one of my next builds.
Regarding the Capacitor ... I have used the one which came with the Mamba stack, but I was not able to connect it to the pads directly. The reason for that is the Hellgate Buzzer. My solution was to use AWG18 Wire .. 2 or 3 cm. If this is valid or a good solution? .. I'm not sure! I have no significant video noise so far, so there is nothing to complain about right now .. but maybe just because the batteries are new and I'm only on 4S. Anyway .. for now it works fine :-)
As said before I have flown aprox. 20 packs or more on this frame and I'm more then happy. I'm using the stock BF 4.0.4 PIDS but have disabled the gyro and D term low pass 2 filters as I have a lot oscillations when they are enabled. Without them everything is perfectly fine. I have also enabled DSHOT600 and set the PID loop to 8Khz. Beside of that I have switched to reversed prop directions and I'm happy with that. Can't really say if it flies better that way, I have done it to avoid a crash when hitting branches.
Photos
Part List
Show stores (7)Guides & Reviews
AirbladeUAV has done it again and this time they've brought long range to the 5" class! Based on the popular Transformer Mini, the new Transformer 5" Ultralight adopts a lot of the same design philosophies with larger props and more payload capacity. It can fly upwards of 20 minutes on a 4 cell Li-Ion battery pack and in ideal conditions it's got a range of over 4 to 5 miles. In this guide I'll walk..
Read more
With the release of the DJI FPV Drone cinematic FPV has become a lot more accessible, but you certainly don't want to crash a $750 drone! The QAV-CINE Freybott is a compact, lightweight cinematic FPV drone that can take a hit and keep going. It's a lot safer to fly indoors and around people. With a naked GoPro or the SMO 4k you can capture some great stabilized footage. In this guide I'll show you..
Read more
I've never seen power leads terminated like that, what does your battery side plug look like? What are those called?
Those are called "3.5mm banana plugs". I have used them for my planes years before the XT60 connector comes up. Therefore all my charging cables, planes, and batteries have been equiped with them when I have started to fly kwads. In fact thats more or less the same connector what's inside the XT60 connector. If I would start from scratch today I would use XT60 as it is standard today but as I have so much gear all around here which is using my old school connectors I'm to lazy to exchange all of them. Beside of this it does not make that differnece, the quality of the connection is the same, I save the wight of the plastic housing and as bonus there is nothing wich might melt while soldering them to wires. And last but not least .. I have bougt that many banana connectores that my stock will last for ages :-) The only drawback is that they are not that save as the XT60 when not isolated properly.
https://www.banggood.com/20-Pairs-3_5mm-Gold-Bullet-Banana-Connector-Plug-Male-Female-For-ESC-Battery-Motor-p-934281.html?rmmds=buy
They are very tidy looking, plus no bright yellow XT-60 to throw off your color scheme. Interesting.
if we open an xt30, xt60 or ec conectors there come the bananas out there. is there a way the should pluged in, gnd first?
Hmmmm not when using just a XT60. If you use my connectors this would be possible or when you add another connector in paralell. On the other side .. why do you have a need for doing so?
i dont understand the meaning, sry. "another conector in paralell" does mean if two batterys paralell?
i cutted ec conectors to fit with a xt60, because there wasnt a spare xt60 and the ec fit if cutted middlepart. inside of this conectors are normal bananas... i thought about use them as bananas because of your example. but the question about plus or minus plug first seems to be unimportant, when i understand your answer.
to make the bananas nearly as save, the wires plus and minus wire in diffrent lenght can give some more savety.