It's good, nearly excellent. Top quality carbon and hardware, good geometry, flies fast, quick and stable. And you really can't see the props, even in 16:9 mode. But the pigtail placement was tricky, and that knocks off a few points, but other than that, this is really nice. And, most importantly, it flies really well!

its true, the frame has a very tight spot for you pigtail, capacitor or any wires that wanna pass.i did my pigtail sideways and wired my capacitor to the front behind the camera. otherwise a great frame

It's 423g dry, and 610g with a 1300mAh 5S, my preferred battery. No GoPro or other HD camera obviously.

HD DVR is enought for casual flying :)

My pleasure, I'm glad that has been helpful. And because the parts I am making tend towards boxy stuff, no smooth, rounded surfaces, I just use TinkerCAD, which is surprisingly great for a browser-based CAD package. And free. And easy to learn because it's simple. But this can mean that you do have to get a bit creative if you want to make complicated models, but it can be done.

I use Cura as my slicing software. Slicers take the .STL output of the 3D model from TinkerCAD and turns it into a .GCODE file that the printer can read and print. It can take a while to get to grips with all the options that Cura offers, but that complexitiy is also flexibility, and that is its strength.

As for my printer, I currently have a Monoprice Select Plus, which is cheap and decent quality, but does require a fair amount of manual set up and on-going calibration. But once you get it dialled in, it works just fine, and absolutely does what I need it to. As far as reviews and resources, there is so much out there right now, there are so many printers available... It's easier to give yourself some boundaries, largely price, and see what you can find in that range, and then look up reviews.

But the thing I will say is that if you are going to use a printer for quad parts, then you will need that printer to be able to handle TPU or other flexible filaments, and not all printers can do that. You need to look for 'direct drive' print heads, rather than Bowden tube print heads (it's the issue of trying to feed a length of cooked spaghetti, which is like TPU, down a plastic tube - you'll understand when you see the difference in mechanisms). Also get one with a heated build plate. You won't always need it, but again for more exotic filaments TPU included, a heated build plate is a must.

I am happy to try to answer any specific questions that you have; I can't proimise I will know the answer, but I can try!

Thank you so much.. I am trying to learn as much as possible before I even get the quad up in the air for the first time lol ... Do you have a youtube channel ?

I do (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCetujluq-BgBMkVuZFKWeYg/) but it's mostly a few random flight videos from the last several years; nothing very interesting or helpful I'm afraid

Just subscribed buddy ..hope too see some video's of the mark4 hd5 in the future ..Thanks

So I would actually go with this GEPRC MarkHD frame. It's a really nice frame, it's designed for the DJI gear, and you don't get any props in view (which you will with the XL5), and that in turn means you don't need to mount a GoPro for your HD footage; comes straight out of the Air Unit!

The XL5 might be slightly more acrobatic, but it's a minimal difference, and it requireas a lot more work to get everything to fit inside the frame.

So yes, I would start with the Mark4HD frame!

Yes, I used the original elbow antennas. You do need to bend them at quite a sharp angle to get them to fit, but they do fit OK.

No problem, here you go: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3920001 Enjoy!

Thanks!