Boredom is a many splendid thing.
Also can anyone help with creating a custom mix for the edf controll.
I talked about snake season . Its a KING BROWN . You die in 30 min if bit.
He or she was inside hunting mice at 2am So i had to hunt snake. The problem is they are sooooo deadly and they have no fear of humans, once they start coming inside they wont leave. anything less riskey gets left be or relocaited , but this one copped the chop
Flight Controller |
MAMBA F405 MK2 Betaflight Flight Controller F40 40A 3-6S DSHOT600 FPV Racing Brushless ESC
(193 builds)
Banggood.com
|
$42.99 |
ESCs |
Holybro Tekko32 35A 4-in-1 BLHeli32 3-6s ESC
(105 builds)
Getfpv.com
|
$56.99 |
Motors |
4 x Emax ECO Series 2306 6S 1700KV 4S 2400KV Brushless Motor for RC Drone FPV Racing
(77 builds)
Banggood.com
|
$63.96 |
I take it that this didnt work out?
Again, I was thinking about this build and how to better control the EDF's....
Try slaving the EDF's to activate on the main throttle at a preset trigger point. Then have the EDF's power scaled starting around 40 - 50% of the RC throttle position. This assumes the copters minimum hover % is well below this trigger level so you can safely get airborne first. Here the idea being, that the EDF's should (gradually) engage at the point where you'd normally be hawling arse anyway. Keep jn mind, that because the EDF's are controlled from the RC stick, the output would be throttled depending on the stick position above the trigger point.
Bware that the EDF's could either overpower the main props (driving you into the ground) or cause a huge amount of voltage sag. This sag could also drive you into the ground as the props start to lose torque. Adding more throttle to pull out of the dive would only make matters worse.. (instant dirt dart)
Thus i would suggest either setting a reasonable throttle range for the EDF's or use the ESC current limit function to help protect against this.
Hi Thanks for the comments and yes , all of what you say is apt. , Howevwe burried in the conmments a plan of action was formed , to save you looking i talked about modding a radio to add a acc pedal and mix it with yaw to give some diferential, Master pedal mixed with yaw , flight time and battery loads are secondary considerations , Its proof of concept im after.
When i get my act together and the fire risk subsides i will post flight footage on my yt
You could setup a seperate RC-AUX channel to act as a secondary throttle using one of the rotory-knobs. You wouldnt really need a mixer, just a PWM output slaved to the position of the AUX channel. Pretty much the same thing thats done to control a servo using a servo tester. If i recall correctly, the PWM output would go directy to the ESC (1-shot) just like any other motor control.
Oh and yeah, use another AUX channel to create a momentary switch to activate the thruster so long as its held. (and copter is armed)
Yesterday i recieved 2 air units, one is going in Wild Thang and as soon as i get some footage i will post on my yt chanel
out of interest. why are the front props upsidedown? i understand motors below but arent upside down props supper inefficient?
The props are still facing in the correct orientation to provide optimal thrust. This is actually ideal placement (Z Configuration) to allow the rear props to receive clean air and have maximum thrust possible. Normally, some of the air getting chopped up by the front props are received by the rear which can cause vibrations or not as much possible thrust acheived.
What about using the momentary toggle for a "boost effect" from the EDFs?
Which clue was that may i ask .Oh yeah thanks for the sub i have 3 now i so stoked, i have been working on rates and pids i will post some results. i also ordered some more air units and when the fire risk goes away i will be posting footage from monstrous and wild thing, its just too dangerious to maiden such un knowns at the hight of summer.
What do you think of my flying spot. Will post coax monday when the po opens
yeah I'd love to hear how you end up deciding to control that beast. my first guess is a motor mix alone isn't going to a good fit. I'm thinking maybe a two mode switch with mode 1 being essentially a normal quad no edf so you can get up in the air safely. Then mode 2 essentially changes the quads motors to a minimum fixed throttle that is enough to hover and have the throttle stick now control the power to edf's. i feel like it's not what you were going for though. this could be a good scenario for one of those knobs on the end of the throttle stick. i love reading your stuff. i lived in Perth a few years ago and reading your posts makes me remember how awesome that place and it's people are. keep it up, you're a legend
This is mad science nuts! I added a rear prop to a quad once. This was way back when we had servo control on kk2 and f1 boards. I put the output on a switch so I had 0, 50%, 100%. I'm sure you could use some kind of uart or aux output to control the EDFs. Maybe on a slider or switch depending on what radio you use.
AirbladeUAV has done it again and this time they've brought long range to the 5" class! Based on the popular Transformer Mini, the new Transformer 5" Ultralight adopts a lot of the same design philosophies with larger props and more payload capacity. It can fly upwards of 20 minutes on a 4 cell Li-Ion battery pack and in ideal conditions it's got a range of over 4 to 5 miles. In this guide I'll walk..
Read moreWith the release of the DJI FPV Drone cinematic FPV has become a lot more accessible, but you certainly don't want to crash a $750 drone! The QAV-CINE Freybott is a compact, lightweight cinematic FPV drone that can take a hit and keep going. It's a lot safer to fly indoors and around people. With a naked GoPro or the SMO 4k you can capture some great stabilized footage. In this guide I'll show you..
Read more
Been a while so I'll ask how this is going ?