The Build
This is my second DJI FPV system build and once again I used the 3D printed parts that was designed by M490fpv (https://www.thingiverse.com/M490fpv/designs). But I had to do some modification because I plan to use a 4in1 esc instead of individual esc on the arms. I still went with this design because I like how the camera in pushed forward and up higher on the frame. But this also causes an issued because I now need more clearance for the props. So M490fpv suggested to use 6” arms to solve this problem.
The most difficult part of this build is keeping the stack as low as possible. I was hoping to use 30mm standoffs for the height of the frame and why test fitting everything it seemed possible. I 3D printed some spacers on the bottom of the ESC as a safety precaution so the electronics will not short out if it ever touched the aluminum bottom plate. I did the same for the FC too because there are a few capacitors that rests on top of the aluminum heat sink of the 4in1 ESC. I think I would have made this goal if I removed the aluminum heatsink that is on the Talon 4in1 ESC. But in the end the fit was to tight for my liking, so I end up using 35mm standoff instead. The 5 extra millimeters of space gave me all the room I needed and not worry about the electronics shorting out. So, in the pictures below I no longer need to cut the holes or notch out of the 3D printed DJI AIR unit holder.
After moving on to the 35mm standoff method, the position of the Air Unit was not ideal for my setup so I made a few modifications to the 3D models.
I remixed the Bottom Plate to move the Air Unit further up so there is more room for the antennas. The holes for the standoff was made smaller and now it holds in place without sliding up and down. So now I do not need to use the 10mm spacers. And finially I added a notch to the rear of the Bottom Plate, so the DJI Air Unit’s power cable can feed through from the back.
I am not a fan of MMCX connectors because the cabling they use with it is usually so stiff. For the Antenna Holder I modified the 3D file by removing material where the cable exits the hole. This will give the antenna more space to make the tight turn in the limited spacing.
Finially, the Motor Wire Cover which is not and part that was designed by M490fpv but was taken from a different quad. I reduced the size of the wire cover to fit the Floss’ thin arms.
I included the links for both the original and my remix 3d printed files in my parts list below.
Maiden Flight
The first few flights were good, and the stock Betaflight v4.1.5 PID's and Rates were nice and smooth. But I did not have too much confidence with it yet. I used the similar setup I had with the Floss 2.0 with 2207 Blaster 2450kv motors and Gemfan Hurricane 51466 props. But it did not fly the same because it seems to lack the trust and grip in the air while cornering.
So, I went back to my favorite Gemfan Flash 5552 props that like use on my 6” frames. On my first test flight it was a night and day difference. I got back all the things that was missing with the Gemfan Hurricane 51466 props. In the description for the 51466 props it states “Really great for overall general 5” quad use. High weight won’t perform as well as something that’s around 600g AUW or less.” I am pushed close to 600g when I am using a 1500mah lipo, so that might be the reason why I do not see the same performance is my lighter Floss 2.0.
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how did you adjust the camera to work at a 90' angle
Sorry for the confusion, I notice I have one picture with the camera in the 90-degree positioned. I was just test fitting the camera without removing the screws.