This was a joy to build. I wanted the build to be relatively lightweight (458gAUW with a 4s 1300mah battery) and be able to take voltage for 4s to 6s, since I wanted the maximum flexibility for batteries. I currently run 4s batteries, but I'm sure I'll make the jump to 6s when I can afford it.

The frame itself is very nice. It has the features that you would expect from any other premium frame, like single screw arm removal, streched-X layout, 20x20 and 30x30 stack mounting, 5mm arms, and many other features, all while keeping it under 68 grams, including 3D prints (Camera mount and VTX antenna mount).

There was a lot of thought put into this frame, so it's durable, all the while being super easy to assemble. The frame only uses M3 screws, so no need to use 10 different drivers to assmble it.

The frame has 4 Carbon plates not including the arms.

When putting together the frame, you'll notice some little sockets, or indents on the top and bottom plates. Make sure that this is facing the screw head side. This is mainly for aesthetics on the top plate, however orienting the bottom plate properly will help prevent the battery from hitting the screws in the event of a battery ejection.

I started by mounting the ESC, motors, and race wire, as well as made a wiring harness for the FC. The stock Hardware is all black, I bought the gold standoffs and screws separately.

I then proceeded to solder the motors to the racewire. Just to be safe, I covered the motors with some cardboard so I wouldn't accidentally get some solder in them (the cardboard came with the frame ;) )

Next, I soldered the wires from the racewire to the ESC. I also ended up coating the pads on the racewire and the 4in1 (as best as I could at least) with some Kotking to make it water resistant (I forgot to coat the FC though)

After wiring up the motors, I tried to mount my FC but my stack screws were too short, so I had to cut the radix grommets a bit shorter.

Once I had the FC, I installed my Rx. What's nice about the Radix is that you can hardmount the Crossfire RX using a pin header, making for a very clean build. I also taped the VTX to the top plate, soldered the + and - wires to VBAT, and the video wire to the flight controller. Because the build was pretty much done at this point, I also went ahead and wired up the camera, also taking power directly from VBAT. This means that all I had to solder to my FC was the video wires for the VTX and the camera, And the crossfire RX, which was done with a pin header. This makes the building process very quick. I also wired up Smartaudio to my crossfire RX, since I like to be able to control the VTX without having to wear my goggles.

Here's something I really like about this frame... I don't know if it was intentional or not, but theres this gap in the back of the frame that is perfect for mounting the Crossfire antenna. You'd have to be very unlucky for the antenna to bend enough to get it chewed up by the props if you mount it like this.

And there it is! Appart from basic BF programming, the build was complete. I've included the CLI DIFF code in the comments. If you are making this build simply copy and paste it into your CLI, type in save, and you should be good to go (props off when testing!!!). running the latest stavle release of BF (as of may 8th 2020)