This. thing. rocks. tiny, but doesn't feel like insane power:weight. throttle has loads of resolution down low, but it flies smooth lines (just as soon as the pilot adjusts :D :D )
I only have about 5 packs through it so far so it's cleeeean. maybe 3 crashes and not even a mark on it.
Build tips:
plan ahead. I cut and installed this fc with the arrow to the front and xt60 cut to go out the back.. and then realized the cam pads are in the back, vtx pads are in the front.... it's a mess.. on the next one I'm going to rotate the fv 180 deg on the z axis.
the nano cam must be installed upside down. you need to reverse HORIZONTAL AND VERTICAL in the runcam settings to make it look correct. it has a fairly unique plug for runcam (I say this as someone with 30+ micro cams) so change the settings before you cut the plug off for the joystick or keep the plug. I never keep them on (since it's a one time setup) but I messed up this time.. I'm leaving a photo of the bench spaghetti tool I built to fix the camera after the fact.
The stock lipo sled was incredibly tight, even after using a lighter to loosen it up just a little bit (as seen here ) it's still very snug. There are thingiverse files available for all of the parts as well as for a larger sled. if you go 3S, go ahead and print a larger sled (IMHO).
I'm having a slight fitment issue, my usb plug under the fc is juuuust barely touching the lipo. if I don't get the lipo tray loosened up a tad I'm going to end up breaking the usb port off. I didn't need to add nuts under the fc to raise it up from the carbon, but it seems like I should probably do that to raise the fc up to protect the usb port.
Alternatively, just forgo the strap and use a normal battery strap or a rubber band and drop another 10-20 grams or something for the whole craft. Mine comes in at 148gm AUW. I'm totally happy with how it flies so I'm not gonna go full weight weenie on this one.
Some tight, technical flying with a quick track and some crashing. shows agility/durability. I crashed several times (fence/concrete/wall/fence) in this session and i can't even find a mark on the quad.
Maiden flight (with daylight) below. sorry the video is dark but you can see (if you've seen any of my yard track videos) that it's damn near as fast as my 5" quads in this space, but iI can actually turn on a dime and it's agile AF. it's easier to hold tighter lines with this thing for sure.
Update: dissassembled and added one nut under the fc to raise it about 1 mm. I now have clearance between usb and the lipo. no vertical real estate left between canopy and the VTX, it may just be making contact on the sides (which should have no effect on it unless I crash and somehow break the vtx).
Frame |
TinyTrainer Frame Kit
Flyfive33.com
|
$33.00 |
Flight Controller |
Whoop Flight Controllers for - Toothick FC - RaceDayQuads
(48 builds)
Racedayquads.com
|
$49.99 |
Motors |
4 x XING X1404 4600kv Toothpick Ultralight Build (unibell)
Tinysleds.com
|
$51.96 |
Propellers |
HQ Prop T3x1.5x3 Durable Tri-Blade 3" Prop 4 Pack - Grey
(5 builds)
Racedayquads.com
|
$2.29 |
FPV Transmitter |
Flywoo Goku VTX625 20x20/25x25/30x30 25-450mW 5.8GHz VTX - U.FLDefault Title
(13 builds)
Racedayquads.com
|
$15.99 |
Receiver |
FrSky XM+ 2.4GHz Micro ReceiverDefault Title
(1149 builds)
Racedayquads.com
|
$15.99 |
Batteries |
Tattu R-Line 11.1V 3S 550mAh 95C LiPo Micro Battery - XT30
(20 builds)
Racedayquads.com
|
$13.39 |
Misc Parts |
Tiny Trainer LED Kit
(9 builds)
Tinysleds.com
|
$19.99 |
will it run 4s or just 3? sorry new to quads. Also roughly how much flight time are you getting out of a battery?
So this micro is designed to run 2S or 3S, not 4S. on 3S 550mah, I am getting 2:00-2:20 at a race pace, and casually flying I am easily getting 3-4 minutes. on 3S this micro can keep up with most 5" quads (other than maybe top level pilots on 4S/6S). 2S would make this very tame and if you are brave you might could fly it indoors. However, I am crazy so I keep it fast and loose and outdoors on 3S.
a few things: already pulling 30-40 amps on hard corners at full throttle on 3S, so you may be pushing the limits on the ESC. also 4S lipos are not goinf to fit the frame as designed, and will make the weight go up appreciably, which will increase current draw under load even more, and negatively wffect the power to weight ratio. finally, its already stupid fast and agile on 3S: assuming it works smoothly on 4S, with nothing failing, im not sure in could handle a quad that fast at the limit, and im not a slow pilot these days
Please enlighten me about your tune.
RPM filtering on BF 4.2?
Dshot300 4k/4k? or Dshot150 2k2k?
Tell me more, tell me more!
Hey! I will upload a picture of my tune or a CLI dump, whatever you are interested in. I know I'm on betaflight 4.xx but forgot the specifics. I did not go through and do all of the advanced filtering suggested by Fly533/Mondo, I started with the stock tune and was pleasantly happy with it, though I may have made a few minor tweaks. Look for an update on this description later (I can't get it plugged in right now)
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When you were wiring up the leds, did you use a 3A 5V regulator? I have a betafpv F405 and it says that it's capable of 20A and I was wondering if the regulator is a must have or is it not necessary. Thanks!
I don't recall shoving a 5v polulu or anything in there. just tapped into my FC on some pads that were available.
I don't think there is room for any additional regulators in the normal canopy.
oh, now that I'm reading what you wrote again. the 20amp capability on the FC is for the motors and is the ESC limit. seperate from the curent for the LEDs. there is probably a 5V pad on the FC and that should be fine for powering the LEDs
Got it, thank you very much for letting me know!