Could have sworn I already made this build on here, but I cant find it now. Oh well.
So far this is my only gopro/one r capable rig. I fully believe that 30-40g action cameras are the future of fpv filming, but thats not the current reality so until those cameras are more reliable and capable this quad is my main setup.
Hi mate, could I know what are you filtering and pids?
I just finished building it and I just did a test fly for like 20 seconds and the motors are burning hot.
Xing 1507 2800kv
Im using 6s 1300mha( I know its super heavy) but should be fine as would be even heavier with a gopro 8 and 6s 850mha
hey! thanks a lot for that, yeah I did that yesterday, and I limited the power output to 70% and its running ok now, but I havent tested with the Gopro yet, I have the exact same build so, I will try your settings and if my mottors are still not, then I will have to buy the same props 😬😬
thanks again.
AirbladeUAV has done it again and this time they've brought long range to the 5" class! Based on the popular Transformer Mini, the new Transformer 5" Ultralight adopts a lot of the same design philosophies with larger props and more payload capacity. It can fly upwards of 20 minutes on a 4 cell Li-Ion battery pack and in ideal conditions it's got a range of over 4 to 5 miles. In this guide I'll walk..
Read moreWith the release of the DJI FPV Drone cinematic FPV has become a lot more accessible, but you certainly don't want to crash a $750 drone! The QAV-CINE Freybott is a compact, lightweight cinematic FPV drone that can take a hit and keep going. It's a lot safer to fly indoors and around people. With a naked GoPro or the SMO 4k you can capture some great stabilized footage. In this guide I'll show you..
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Sweet build man! Could I know how you secured the back screw for the gopro mount? Have been trying to figure this one out
Thanks much, its been a long process to get it to this point. At first I was just running a shorter screw with a nut underneath the top plate, but this got very annoying. I put in one of the extra standoffs in the middle since im not using a 20x20 vtx. I may cad and print something soon so I can go back to just a nut on the underside and free up some space inside this tighter than it should be build.
Thanks for the reply and info! It really is a tight and difficult build. I've been trying to figure out the best spot for the vtx but the only place seems to be right behind the fpv camera. I'm not even sure if there's enough space for the shorter screw and nut as it will hit the vtx lol
No worries, this community is all about sharing and learning! Ive been kind of frustrated with this chassis setup tbh. The front 20x20 mount is too far from the sma mount to use it, and if you use the standoff it negates the ability to run a 20x20 at all. Doesnt make much sense. I havent seen much in the way of conflict between camera and 20x20 board though. Honestly Im really starting to think the best build for this would be to run one of those new f7 or h7 aio whoop boards in the back position with the vtx stacked either under or over it and leave the front 20x20 section entirely empty.
You're probably right about the aio f7 boards. Where did you end up placing your vtx? I have mine jammed between the fpv camera and the back 20x20 but it seems to be touching the top of the FC. Def is a frustrating chassis layout lol.
Welp, I ended up following through on my ideas of a whoop board. the CLracing 20a f7 blheli32 board is in the mail right now. Ill be putting the rx and tbs pro32 nano vtx direct soldered to that board in the back with a rush cherry antenna directly to the vtx instead of an sma extension. We shall see how that goes.