I caved and needed to try these motors. Had a long debate with myself about whether to build a taycan with the 2203 or go full FPVCycle. Splorin won out.
ALLLLrighty. Its flying. and flying pretty good. Stock 4.2.2 BF setup is pretty solid. Some small oscillations when running it on 6s but nothing a little tweaking cant fix. Video will be posted as soon as I edit it. I gotta say, besides the way this thing flies and how FREAKIN quiet these motors are the flywoo bluetooth setup is absolutely brilliant. Any of my quads that has a spare uart is getting one of these little wonders.
To sum it up, yes these motors are as good and quiet as you heard they are. Honestly thinking about selling the 1507 motors off my cinerat for a second set of these.
I made a couple parts for the CineSplore. Ducts are the first to be posted. GP mount and sma mount coming soon, along with some ducts made to accept the LED kit from the Taycan MXC.
Ducts:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4579229
Update 8-29-20
I finished printing my LED ducts and am pretty stoked on how they came out. My once relatively simple build is now a mess of wires, and im really hoping that im not going to have heat management issues with my vtx now. If I do then I guess the LEDs were fun while they lasted but really isnt the point of this quad and it flys just oh so nicely with my first iteration of the ducts.
Just a suggestion on the ducts - you need the edge of the ducts closer to the edge of the props - https://fpvcycle.com/collections/props/products/gemfan-ducted-penta-blade-five-blade-props-76mm-3-prop-lemon-yellow-2cw-2ccw - read this.
Great job though, and great build!
Prop to duct proximity has definitely been a consideration and was a concern prior to my first flights. I have about 6 more iterations of the design that just need to be printed. I have a good amount of experience with ducted builds Ive done in the past, from where I started with the nutmeg and cutting my own props to the squirt and mildly adjusting Shendrone ducts to squeeze them in. Something that I am primarily experimenting with on the current design is having a smaller diameter outlet than the overall diameter of the props, to play a bit with Bernoulli's pressure vs. speed principle. Basically you have to take the prop off to take the duct off which means that the prop creates pressure in the duct, elevating the wind speed as it passes through the duct, creating more thrust.
AirbladeUAV has done it again and this time they've brought long range to the 5" class! Based on the popular Transformer Mini, the new Transformer 5" Ultralight adopts a lot of the same design philosophies with larger props and more payload capacity. It can fly upwards of 20 minutes on a 4 cell Li-Ion battery pack and in ideal conditions it's got a range of over 4 to 5 miles. In this guide I'll walk..
Read moreWith the release of the DJI FPV Drone cinematic FPV has become a lot more accessible, but you certainly don't want to crash a $750 drone! The QAV-CINE Freybott is a compact, lightweight cinematic FPV drone that can take a hit and keep going. It's a lot safer to fly indoors and around people. With a naked GoPro or the SMO 4k you can capture some great stabilized footage. In this guide I'll show you..
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What kinda flight time do you get out of this thing? I'm new to cinewhoops so excuse the question if its really stupid: is it possible to make a "longe range" cinewhoop cruiser? Want to kill two buirds with one stone. Thanks!
OK... I have lots of thoughts on this. Ill try and consolidate these ramblings. Ive only gotten to fly this setup a handful of times. The last time I took it out it was pretty windy, landed at 3.7v per cell after 5min flight. Flying 1100mah 4s with full gopro setup. Im hard on my batteries and would normally fly them down to 3.4v per cell. 3.7v for me is right in the middle zone of a the flight. So yeah you could call this a longer flight time machine for cruising. That said I wouldnt call it a "long range" drone because you are not going anywhere quickly.