I destroyed my replacement Tinyhawk 2 and wanted to build something with the spare parts. I did not do the proper research before buying the frame and thought I could use the TH2 motors. Not so. I ended up buying new motors. I was able to initially use the vtx from the TH2, but ended up buring out the first AIO, and replacing it with this one that has its own VTX. Another TH2 part goes back in the bin. Things that I did use from my TH2 (basically) free:
Runcam nano 2 camera
motor bolts
1s batteries
power connector
capacitor
red led strip
I am also using a spare TBS vtx antenna.
I installed a fullspeed nano rx at first, but again not having properly researched, I did not realize it was D8 and my controller does not support this mode (x-liteS) . I switched it out for an xm+ (that was intended for a 2.5 build). It was overkill and was moved to the more appropriate build. It's been replaced with an FRSKY Archer M+ to closer match the range of the 50w vtx max.
Impressions on archer m+ vs xm+:
Firmware:
M+ needs a higher version of ISRM ( 2.1.0)
XM + does not work on ISRM (2.1.0) only on ISRM(1.1.3) from what I gather.
I have to flash the firmware when I use my other quad. Its not hard, just a pain in the ass.
Range
M+ is barely keeping up with my 50w vtx flying around my property. Im getting RSSI around 30-40 when my video starts to flicker.
XM+ is overkill for my 50w vtx flying around my property. Im getting RSSI around 65-80 when my video starts to flicker.
Which would I get next?
For the price (they cost the same) and the features I would go with the XM+ hands down.
Not having to hit the bind button for binding in Access is nice and being able to update firmware on the receiver OTA( cable free ) is also great. But...I would gladly trade that convenience for the extended range I get with the xm+.
The canopy is 4 zip ties and the camera is held in place with heat shrink with a hole cut in it for the lens, and another zip tie. The canopy does not sit straight and needs constant adjustment, thus the name. V2 will have improvements. Amazingly there is no camera vibrations. Stretch first, then cut a small circle in one side... try not to have any sharp angles in your cut or it will tear when you try to slide camera lens through.
The landing gear is also made from 3 short zip ties.
Lastly, I added in the led strip for some attitude.
My first impressions are this thing sounds angry and flys like one of those super fat bumble bees. I am using the stock dump for the alpha 65 and the next step is to dial in some flight goodness. I am getting around 2.45-3 min of flight time.
Further flying rate this as my favorite quad so far, even with the super twitchy stock pids its still super fun. Next will be pid tuning.
Frame |
NewBeeDrone Cockroach Brushless Whoop Frame - Choose Your Color
(5 builds)
Racedayquads.com
|
$4.99 |
Flight Controller |
iFlight SucceX F4 1S 5A AIO Whoop Board (MPU6000) with VTX
(13 builds)
Pyrodrone.com
|
$46.99 |
Motors |
BetaFPV 0802 19500Kv Micro/Whoop Motor 4 Pack for Meteor65
(5 builds)
Racedayquads.com
|
$38.99 |
Propellers |
Gemfan 1219-3 Durable Tri-Blade 31mm Micro/Whoop Prop 8 Pack (1mm Shaft) - Choose Your ColorClear Purple
(15 builds)
Racedayquads.com
|
$4.99 |
FPV Camera |
RunCam Nano2
(184 builds)
Pyrodrone.com
|
$19.99 |
FPV Transmitter |
FRSKY ARCHER M+ 16/24CH ACCESS OTA 2.4GHz Micro Receiver
(6 builds)
Pyrodrone.com
|
$15.69 |
Batteries |
RDQ Series 3.8V 1S 450mAh 80C LiHV Whoop/Micro Battery for TinyHawk - PH2.0
(6 builds)
Racedayquads.com
|
$4.74 |
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I added zip tie landing gear so the props are about a 1/4 inch from the ground and I fly mostly over concrete. I am not any more worried than I would be from a puller :)
Good idea!