Cloudbuster 23012 (giveaway)

By Snap Aerial Silhouettes on Sep 06, 2020

1  117  0

this is the thirty, by Snap Aerial Silhouettes

apply to own it for free, at the following link

https://forms.gle/9PD36n4QJiHixWGEA

applicaton closes at midnight, 9/21/2020

name

the first three digits of its number-name denote the motor to motor distance (230mm), while the last two signify the number of the series of builds this one belongs to, and the build number within that series, respectively

this is a giveaway build designed to showcase the Snap canopy in the way we intend it to be used

series

this build is the second of three, each of which is topped with a canopy from the Summer line of canopy offerings

the build has been specially designed to be a one of a kind, again: it is a hybrid Floss 3.0 LITE (six inch rear arms), with nearly all of the best modern racing capabilities currently available on the market to our knowledge

the remaining build will be created in this build's image, to further perpetuate the design themes of this series of giveaway builds

canopy

this canopy is a true original and one of a kind in the racing drone industry, whether you like it or not, and regardless of whether you agree

read about it on our company website, at snapasils.com

build

more specifically, this build is a MultiGP open class legal, 5 inch 6s racer, with MultiGP prodigy Drobot Racer's requested 45 degrees of camera uptilt and low profile P.O.P. (plenty-o-prop in view, complete corner surfer), complete with an oppositely polarized antenna (white, not shown) for swapping between heats if necessary

it uses the longest feasible racewire on the market, eliminating air stagnation points between motor wires that causes pressure drag between the stagnant air trapped in these small cavities and propwash/oncoming air above and along the arms of the craft

filament tape around said racewire is utilized in case of arm failure, to protect ESC pads, and the thicker 3M VHB is used to redundantly adhere the racewire to the arms

true DuPont Kapton tape has been used to more effectively isolate RF components in close proximity throughout the build

a string of Tiny's Not-as-Tiny LEDs provides blinding visibiity, almost as blinding as the fast lap you just did in the thing, and the integrated 1000uF 35v Nichicon radial capacitor just cant get any more aerodynamic- oh it works great for high kv 6s too, btw... get ideas

we have opted for an especially tight build, for the ultra-slim aerodynamic profile it provides, minimizing friction drag on and over the center of the craft while also opening up space for propwash to escape the edge of the props (some good freestyle frames design around the same principle)

the transmitter antenna has been mounted perpendicularly (for best possible transmission, given unorthodox location) on the front arm for reduced exposure to air (oncoming and propwash), and easy access for quick swapping between heats if necessary, just clip the ziptie and throw the oppositely polarized antenna on (may need to loosen rear canopy screws to access U.FL)

Minimortal T for the crossfire, so you dont have a chopped up antenna all the time, also spaceships cant enter the atmosphere with a big saggy antenna hanging off of them, it burns up from the speed...

frame is one of the best on the market, and will be for a long time because it hasnt lost its racing roots-its just a plain Jane aluminum frame gate slipper, and its easier to build than a Five33 Switchback... plus Pyro sells psycho seven inch arms for it, which is good because props are antisocial #canigetahybrid

build weight (no props or battery): 275.8g (yes, less than our identical Five33 Switchback build)

do not give it water, do not expose it to sunlight, do not let it stay up past midnight... it reproduces rapidly

critics

if you're doubting the antenna
https://oscarliang.com/mini-immortal-antenna/

if you're doubting the camera
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8rATakQWkc&t=76s

if you're doubting the hybrid setup
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=736GrT4DjEk&t=746s

if you're doubting the tape used to secure the motor wires
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/Scotch-Filament-Tape-898/?N=5002385+3293242192&preselect=3293786499&rt=rud

if you're doubting that beautiful battery strap
https://www.hellermanntyton.com/products/cable-ties-releasable/softfix-m/115-11270

features

voltage sensing

analog current sensing

ESC telemetry

BrainFPV's graphical OSD

Runcam's gesture camera control

TBS' SmartAudio

1000uF 35v Nichicon radial can capacitor

3-6s Tiny's Not-as-Tiny LEDs

ROVAFLEX cable strap

o-ring vibration dampened uni-bell motors from iFlight

hard-wiring wherever possible (to prevent plug pull-out in high speed crashes)

aerodynamic nylock propnuts (aero without loss of wrench grip or nylock anti-slip)

full 20x20 flight stack

high grip Nomojel Ummagawd camera pad as a battery pad

unparalleled aerodynamics

to dos (if you win it)

purchase propellers of your choice (shown with Hq R38 Headsup props, not included)

purchase 6s batteries or add your own (shown with 6s 1250 Pyro Drone Graphene, not included)

calibrate current sensor for your batteries

bind crossfire transmitter and set to 868MHz frequency (Minimortal T antenna is optimized for 868)

setup switches for your controller

configure the OSD to your liking

hover test and PID tune from Betaflight presets to your liking

gesture control has already been turned on, the Runcam OSD has been turned off, motor direction is REVERSED for racing (so put props on accordingly)

official release

the canopy shown on this build is available to purchase, and ready to race

to be notified every time we break the mold with an immaculate in-house build like this one, follow us on this site

to break the racing drone molds at the tracks you frequent, visit snapasils.com and join our email list

Photos

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