This my first 2.5 build
I initially was going to use a whoop style fc and a whoop adapter sled for the vtx and rx. The adapter sled is super clean and I had it all set up and ready to but unfortunatly I burnt out the NAMELESSRC AIO412T (FC+ESC AIO) board... something along the #3motor side smoked and it not longer powers up with usb or battery :( I am hopeful to fix it so I can make another build soon.
A friend (that got me into drones) gave me this nano mambo stack out of sympathy and his lack of desire to solder these tiny pads :) Bad ass!
The rx is stuffed behind the camera, the capacitor is under the power cable snuggled into the bottom hole in the frame, and the vtx is on the top of the stack in a sled. On top of all of that i have a 3led stript that I heat shrunk and then cut out holes for the light diodes to shine through...if only i had clear heat shrink in small sizes.
I spent a few weeks assemblying, disassbemling, solder, re soldering, etc.... The last few days were troubleshooting. Word to the wise.. if betaflight is showing your receiver and controller working correctly, but when you unplug and try to fly in real life your quad does not fly right.... its most likely not a software issue, check your prop orientations :P
During my final assembly I tore the vtx antenna out of the UFL connector... I can fix this, but that aint gonna happen anytime soon. So i put the stock tbs vtx antenna back on.
I have only built and flown pusher whoops in the past. After working on my first TH2, and then rebuilding it, and then building my own whoop from parts, I decided to build my own puller 2-3s. The satisfaction of building something from the ground up and then flying it is immense satisfying.
Compared to my whoops.. there is no comparison... Everything has been turned up to 11... speed, agility, power, flight time...
if I had to give one complaint, it would be open blades and indoor flying don't mix so well. If your props touch anything, you are crashing. And those crashes are not like whoops soft bounce... loud THUDs...
I love flying but I realize I love building just as much. I want to thank my friend Max for getting into this amazing hobby / sport.
Frame |
Armattan Tadpole 65mm/2.5" Frame
(26 builds)
Pyrodrone.com
|
$34.00 |
Flight Controller |
Diatone Innovations Mamba F411 Nano Stack 16x16
(10 builds)
Airbladeuav.com
|
$39.99 |
Motors |
4 x T-Motor F1103 8000Kv Micro MotorDefault Title
(6 builds)
Racedayquads.com
|
$44.00 |
Propellers |
AVAN Rush 2.5 Inch Prop - RED
(34 builds)
Emax-usa.com
|
$1.59 |
FPV Camera |
Foxeer Toothless 2 Nano 1200TVL CMOS 4:3/16:9 PAL/NTSC FPV Camera (1.8mm) - Choose Your Color
(17 builds)
Racedayquads.com
|
$29.90 |
FPV Transmitter |
TBS Unify Pro32 Nano 5G8 V1.1 VTx Video Transmitter
(400 builds)
Pyrodrone.com
|
$29.95 |
Antenna |
Micro U.FL RHCP Antenna
(5 builds)
Armattanquads.com
|
$4.00 |
Receiver |
FrSky XM+ 2.4GHz Micro ReceiverDefault Title
(1149 builds)
Racedayquads.com
|
$15.99 |
Batteries |
Tattu 2S 450mAh 75C Lipo Long XT30 Whoops
(16 builds)
N-factory.de
|
See Site |
Misc Parts |
Diatone Mamba TBS Unify Pro32 Nano 16x16 Stack Adapter Board
(2 builds)
Racedayquads.com
|
$2.99 |
AirbladeUAV has done it again and this time they've brought long range to the 5" class! Based on the popular Transformer Mini, the new Transformer 5" Ultralight adopts a lot of the same design philosophies with larger props and more payload capacity. It can fly upwards of 20 minutes on a 4 cell Li-Ion battery pack and in ideal conditions it's got a range of over 4 to 5 miles. In this guide I'll walk..
Read moreWith the release of the DJI FPV Drone cinematic FPV has become a lot more accessible, but you certainly don't want to crash a $750 drone! The QAV-CINE Freybott is a compact, lightweight cinematic FPV drone that can take a hit and keep going. It's a lot safer to fly indoors and around people. With a naked GoPro or the SMO 4k you can capture some great stabilized footage. In this guide I'll show you..
Read more
did you do anything special to isolate the VTX once it was in the sled? I can't seem to find gummies small enough to fit. did you just use the rubber washers? and did you use steel screws and nuts?
i use rubber spacers with steel bolt and plastic nut
Cool - thanks!
W/o the spacers and with an aluminum nut, I seem to have shorted something.
I've been building my micros with white nylon m2x20mm screws for the stack. They're on amazon pretty cheap. They don't conduct electricity, and they don't break. You can bend them in half, and they spring back. Plus, you can build your stack to the height you want it, then snip the rest off, above the plastic nuts.
ill give that a whirl :)