The 5" Praetoria (orig. Prätoria) frame from Dr.Drone is a very sturdy frame with a low noise profile. It's capable of fitting a DJI Air Unit, or the smaller Caddx Vista, for digital racing. I have chosen this frame for it's low noise profile to make vibration-free race cinematics.

Additionally, it's quite versatile as you can customize it to your needs to some degree. You can either use countersunk screws or pan head screws. Screws for either choice are included as well as the countersink tool. It will fit a regular 30x30mm stack, 20x20mm stack with M3 or M2 screws.

The assembly of the frame is a little tricky, so follow the instructions and check out the pictures. I recommend starting with the vertical frame. The four frame struts are identical. The Frame is curved upwards, the recesses is on the inside.

Then prepare the bottom plate and the vertical arms. The shorter arms are at the front. With frame and bottom plate prepared, there is only one way left how it will fit. You now will see, which of the motor holding plates will fit at what position, front is different from the back.

If you prefere counter sink screws, you will need to drill the holes. The tool and screws for both options are in scope of delivery as well as the standoffs. The motor screws are 16mm. The screws for the stack are 20mm. That's the maximum length to still fit the DJI Air Unit (AU).

This build is optimized for cinematic, rather than weight. A sub 300g is possible, with caddx vista though. This build willl have 390g w/o battery and w/o action cam, carrying a DJI Airunit with powerful motors.

In this build, I chose to put the motor cables inbetween the vertial arms and the standoff for maximum protextion, AWG24 will fit. I use a led bar, just for the fun of it.

The stack is Xrotor Micro with a Racepit Mini (20x20mm). This requires to drill the M2 holes to M3. I used M3 nylon screws (about 2mm). It uses up all the space available. The stack is intended for a rebular size stack, so either can be used. Just take care to not get higher, it must fit the 20mm screws if you use the AU.

For this build only the receiver (TBS crossfire nano) and the AU is connected to the FC. The AU requires a BEC (I used 12V) as it will not be able to cope with LiPo Voltage (6S in my case). The BEC is connected to the VTX out with the solder bridge set to VBAT.

There is a huge advantage, that comes with the racepit mini. The power to the VTX/AU can be switches on via the remote control. So the AU is only powered if desired, reducing the risk of overheating. This is especially handy, when a GPS is used, as it will take some time until takeoff.

The build is extremely low noise, see spectral graph. This makes the Prätoria frame perfect for cinematic. Also, filters can be set very low. And the best part is, it fits the monstrous AU. So, this makes it a digital racer capable of making good videos. It's possible to record three different types of footage: Goggles (720p), AU (1080p) and whatever action cam you want to use. Check out the video of the maiden.

Parts List

parts available at https://www.kwadstore.at/

• Prätoria Frame
• FuriousFPV Racepit mini
• Hobbywing XRotor Micro (available as a combo with FC)
• 4 x Hobbywing XRotor 2306 FPV Motor 1750kV 4-6S
• DJI Airunit (or Caddx Vista)
• TBS Triumph Pro LHCP
• TBS Crossfire Nano
• TBS Immortal extended antenna
• 12V BEC (required to reduce VBAT)
• 3D Printed Parts https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4181800
• 16 x 16mm screws for the motors
• 4 x 20mm screws for the stack
• Diatone 601W MAMBA LED Strip

Check out the maiden flight: