I got this frame on a super clearance for 20$ at RDQ that went like "you need to drill the arms to mount this frame"

Since I was looking for and could not find replacement arms for my transtec racer frame that came in an fpv crate about a year ago, I thought I would drill the arms of the Mollar to fit the Transtec => you can't custom drill these arms to fit another frame because they are pre-drilled.

Good thing about the Mollar having pre-drilled arms is it makes it very convenient to enlarge the existing holes. About 60 seconds for the four arms if you have a drill with the correct size.
The tolerances of the frame are very conservative,
pro it makes the frame super stiff
con it makes every screw a mini challenge, a hole or two needed enlarging using a drill

The most painful part in this frame is the 4 long screws of the stack.
You have to place them before assembling the frame, else you need to dissemble the frame and reassemble and because of the tolerances its kinda painfull to have to reassamble the frame again. To add some punishment, the 4 screws are too long, which means you need to use shorter screws (dissassemble are reassemble a 3rd time !!!) or use a file to remove about 2mm on 4 screws or else the top of the frame will not get in place. Also painful is the fact that the frame is not compatilbe with nano cams, you will need a one milimeter washer to fix it.

The counter sink screws are not pre-fitted... another mini challenge

Best part is maintenance, once the build is done you need to unscrew 2 screws on the front or on the back and you have access to the internals. I also like have the sandwich architecture allowing to insert a lipo strap without touching the stack.

That's it for the frame, apart from that a few notes about the general build

1. I don't know how to tune it since there is no blackbox with the brain Fpv mini radix. Default PIDs are fine with filters sliders on 1.3
2. the lightness of the frame combined with a nano cam and a light antenna makes it possible to mount big 4S motors on a budget 6S 20mm 30A esc without having it go in flame on the 3rd punch out
3. I didn't intend to end up with a French theme, I just went on the field without replacement props, broke 2 props and a friend gave me 2 blue props. Since I hated my motors' color, when I came back home I masked them with matching color tape.

If you have a method on how to use the graphical osd to tune please let me know in the comments or private message me. I would like to find the PD balance to eliminate bounce back if there are any. Roll axis seems all over the place