So, late 2020, I started looking at building a quad using DJI. As of this time, rumors of a potential DJI FPV Goggles V2. So, I figured I would plan out a build and do one then. I wanted this build to be super clean, somewhat light, and fly really well. I considered getting the goggles and a PNP quad like the Nazgul 5 HD, but decided not to since it would probably end up being the main quad I flew. After pricing out the build with the parts I wanted, I figured that the build would only be 100$-150$ more in cost. That seemed like a reasonable investment for my first DJI FPV quad. When the DJI FPV Goggles V2 became available for pre-order, I jumped at the opportunity. This is the quad I decided to build. Thank you RaceDayQuads for the fast delivery! I'm stoked to try maiden this quad and start flying DJI FPV.

This is mainly just an explanation of the different parts of the build, and why I used the parts that I used and did what I did.

Frame:
For the frame, I decided to use the FPVCycle Glide because it was lightweight, had 5mm arms, and has excellent motor protection (thanks CiottiFPV!!!). It has 2 screw arm replacements and the arm screws are separate from the stack screws. I printed arm sock skids because those I have found are nice to have for protecting the arms. They hook on well, and don't attach to any screws, so they're easy to take off if I wanted to lose the extra weight.

Motors:
The motors I decided to go for were the Rcinpower Smoox 2306 Plus motors (they are actually 2306.6 in size). They are really smooth, and pretty efficient, according to the thrust tests they list. They are also unibell, and pretty durable as such. I considered getting KababFPV's new 5" motors, but I don't think I need a larger motor right now. I can always switch in the future. When soldering, I held the motor wires down with the twist ties that came with them. Seemed to work really well for having the clean look lol. I routed them around the ESC, and also zip tied the motor wires to a stand off, making sure to leave some extra slack in the wires. I did this to hopefully reduce any chances of ripping a pad off the ESC in a potential wicked crash. Could just be my own worrying though, but it doesn't hurt anything doing it, and doesn't impact the overall clean aesthetic of the build.

Stack:
For the FC/ESC stack, I decided to use the Rush Blade Super ESC and the Rush Blade Digital FC. Rush is a brand I know to make good stuff- I have a Rush Tank Ultimate VTX that has been phenomenal, suviving a battery fire (saving my stack at the time since it was on top lol) and getting dunked in a lake, as well as having the best mic I have listed to out of any VTX,and I have heard many others speak highly of Rush.

• ESC:
  First thing I want to say about the ESC is that I know the 60A ESC is waaayyyy overkill for 5". But I wanted to try 96kHz, and the ESC just looks really well built and super slick with the heat sink armor. But if I wanted to convert this quad to 6" or 7" in the future or move it to a different 6" or 7" in the future, this ESC also gives me those options. The 4 pink LEDs on the ESC kind of stick out, but I'm not too worried about them. Makes the inside of quad glow pink when powered lol. I was NOT able to fit the filter board that came with the ESC inside the frame, due to the space constraints of the build. As a result, and after a lot of contemplating, I decided to put the capacitor off to the side, held to a standoff by a 3D print. The capacitor is a Rubycon 470uf capacitor which I had extra from my previous build. On the capacitor is WaFL's Capacitor Cap- that made soldering wires to the capacitor super easy and clean. I then hot glued the bottom of the capacitor enough to cover the exposed parts of the wires and soldering so that there was little to no chance of shorting. Side note: the ESC also did NOT come with an Xt60, but it was OK, because I had a black one on hand that I was planning on using anyway. Then I conformal coated the wires on the top and the exposed parts of the ESC, like the sides of the fets on the bottom side. This was just to easy my worries about landing in wet grass or dewy grass and accidentally killing the ESC. I had to route the XT60 wires off to the side and angle them when I soldered them to keep them out of the way of the Caddx Vista.
• FC:
  As for the FC, I really like how easy it was to setup and use. The plugs make life so easy. I can switch out components easily. The only things I needed to solder on the FC were the power for the receiver (because you can choose to give it either 3.3V or 5V), and the buzzer wires. Everything else was plug and play. Also, all of the plugs (except the FC/ESC connection plug) has a clip on top! No need to worry about those coming out. I then conformal coated the pads on the bottom to prevent any shorts from happening. That's what the stuff on the bottom of the FC is, as seen in a few images. Also, again, fears of landing in wet grass or dewy grass. Probably unnecessary, but it was super easy to do and took only a few minutes, so why not. The conformal coating doesn't get in the way of anything, melts away when you need to solder, soooo ¯_(ツ)_/¯. I did need longer wires to get to the receiver, which I put at the front of the build, so I depinned the connectors and repinned them with longer wires to keep it clean. I repinned the front connector for "NAVI" to only use 5V, GND, TX, and RX, because I'm not planning on putting a GPS on this build. I don't plan on doing anything long range with this one. The connecting wires that came for the plug and play with the DJI Air Unit, I didn't need to switch. They were pretty long, and definitely long enough for how I was routing them around the Caddx Vista, so I just cut, stripped, and soldered.

DJI Unit (VTX/Camera):
I used the Caddx Vista, because it fit's the 20x20 stack mount, and is lighter. For the antenna on the back, I'm using the stock antenna currently. I designed my own print to hold it though, since I couldn't find a good one to do what I wanted on thingiverse. That being, keeping the antenna out a little bit from the quad, since the Vista is pretty far back in the frame. I also zip tied the coax going from the U.Fl to the antenna to a standoff, in hopes of reducing chances at possibly ripping out the U.Fl on the vista. I routed the wires for the Vista under it so that they would be out of the way. I had to elevate the vista to do this, so I used to nuts to space the Vista from the frame on each screw. I used the Nebula Pro camera, because it looks really close to the original DJI camera, and after printing a test model for the DJI camera for planning/test fitting, I found that I would not be able to have a high camera angle (I'm talking like maybe 15-25 degrees max) without using 25mm frame standoffs (the Glide standoffs are 23mm). After watching many reviews online, I decided the Nebula Pro was probably the better option because of how close it looks to the DJI camera. In my opinion, the DJI camera only looks a tad bit sharper than the Nebula Pro. That's all I noticed. So... yea.

Receiver:
Ok, so I guess I have to admit that I'm an R9 user. The receiver I'm using on this build is the R9MX. However, I'm using a Taranis X9 Lite, which is an ACCESS controller, and I'm using the newest (as of the start of 2021) R9M Lite Pro. And I can say that I haven't had any issues with the system at all. Binding? With ACCESS? First try. OTA updates? Works well. Switching to FLEX firmware? Easy (for me at least). F.Port? Done. So far, I have NOT had any problems with range and have not failsafed yet (knock on wood lol) with any of the flying that I have done (at most 1km- nothing super long range). Why not Crossfire? Because the price hadn't dropped yet when I got the system in the middle of last year lol. But it's fiiiine. I may consider flashing ExpressLRS sometime in the future when it's a bit more mature (and actually supports the R9M Lite Pro). I will say though, that I do use the TBS Stock Antenna V2 on my transmitter instead of the Super8, and I have an Immortal T V2 that I will use on the R9MX when I inevitably bust the stock antenna that came with it. Sooooooo ¯_(ツ)_/¯. This has been conformal coated (because why not?) and I have it heat shrinked and held onto a 3D print with Scotch permanent outdoor mounting tape, in addition to a zip tie. This 3D print is a custom one I made, which basically is an elevated platform to mount things onto. It screws into 20x20 mounting bolts, and is held down by nuts and the bolts themselves. It's a little bit elevated so something on the top can be stuck and something on the bottom can be stuck as well. I was going to mount a Flywoo BT-Nano V2 bluetooth module on bottomside of this, but unfortunately, the bluetooth module seems like it doesn't want to communicate with the flight controller. So I had to leave it out of the build...oh well....

Buzzer:
Need to have a buzzer. Super helpful in general! I used the ViFly Finder 2. Best one out there, in my opinion. I Put this up front in a way that it was easy to access the button if needed. Though, I still use the battery plugging in for a few seconds method because I'm lazy lol.

Props:
The props I have liked the most are the HQ V2S props, because they have given the most responsiveness and still have power. Also, they are some of the most efficient that I have tried.