The quark – a purple 40mm GnarlyFPV Sub Atomic.
Components:
Build follows the GnarlyFPV Sub Atomic reccomended electronics list, with deviations in bold, below.
- JHEMCU GHF13AIO 16x16 FC & ESC
- BetaFPV 1102 13500kv
- Runcam Nano 4
- TBS Unify 32 Nano VTX
- Frsky XM+ Rx
- 16x16mm VTX / Rx Sled
- Foxeer Micro Lollipop
- 350mah 2 HV lipo
Build Notes:
I wanted to mount the VTX and Rx to a 16x16 combination sled, to save on wiring compelxity and clean up the stack. I needed to swap the stock M2x11mm stack screws for M2x14mm, and then the stack fit happily.
The BetaFPV 1102 13500kV motors were stupid difficult to locate - I kept tabs on a number of sites for a few weeks and was finally able to snag a set. I don't know if the 18000kV variants that are more readily in stock would work, but I'm hearing good things about the T-Motor F1103 10,000kV motors.
To route the Rx antennas I had to remove the stock yellow goo, change the attachment angle, and then add drop of flexible adhesive. I'll probably end up moving the Rx antenna to the arms, but I was out of zip ties.
I flashed the ESCs with 48 KHz JESC and RPM filtering.
The complete build is just shy of 44 grams dry, and 66 grams with a 2S 350 mAh.
Photos
Part List
Show stores (5)
Clean build. If VTX pad shown in diagram is battery voltage, which pad did you use for 5v for vtx and 5v for camera? Double checking to avoid any smoking magic. Avoiding any newb mistakes. Thank you!
Great build! That little sled is fantastic, I might have to pick one of those up. Did you mount the receiver antennas to anything?
yeah the T-Motor F1103 are nice. I've had 3x 10,000kv sets that I've run on 3s with 2.5" props without throttle cut. They are absolute beasts. They have huge bearings for their size motors, bigger than all the 1103 size motors that I know. for this reason they are super smooth BUT they are very heavy, more heavy than the average 1103 and much heavier than the lightest of those, like the skystars 1103 which are power and super light.
Also the F1103 have an issue with the shaft separating from the bells. I have three sets of them bought at various times from different places and four of the motors have developed a loose shaft which is quite sad as they are favourite flying 1103s. I have a feeling there might have been a bad batch or two with bad gluing of the bells
Where yaa gonna put your battery strap? Round' the outside?
I was looking at those extra m3 nuts, but it looks to me (and obviously also to you) like they are necessary currently. I suppose you could put something between the FC and the radio mounting board to prevent shorts and drop the extra spacer nut. It also looks like you have space for the strap under the FC for a bottom mount battery. There is another Sub Atomic that got posted about the same time as yours that has the raidio gear heat shrinked and didn't use the mounting board. I have to say i'm surprised that it's the more space effeciant option, I love that mounting board so much (and it's reccomened for the frame, from the maufacturer, right?)! It's like we're in the negaverse
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If you reduced the stack height by removing the nuts, could you have squeezed your RX into a sled as well? Looking at that part it accepts RX also. That would look super clean.
i looked into how that sled works a little more. you can ignore my question above.