I thought this build would go a lot faster than normal as the FC is an AIO with ESC, but this by far took the longest. There is very little room to build in this, it also arrived without the countersunk screws so i had to purchase some of my own, despite the order page saying the countersunk screws would be included in my batch, the battery pad is also cut mirrored which was also supposed to be fixed.
I gave up trying to plan how to build it the tidiest i could and just went ahead just to see how it would go trying to fit the receiver, turns out that wasnt really an issue as there is more than enough room for it with with battery strap i used (Diatone's 1.0x11.5cm), i heatshrank it with the heatshrink supplied with the vtx as the heat shrink i normally have is oddly thick. the tbs nano32 was a different story with the antenna however, once i had it all ready to see how it would fit i had to put a little pressure on the top plate to close it. The positive is the battery strap doesnt move easily and the way i mounted it the slight pressure isnt on the FC as its on the stack screw and nut instead.
I wasnt sure which camera i was going to use between the Runcam 2 nano and the gnarlyfpv recommended nano 4, but the nano 2 just about fit so i went with it. I should have thought about the battery lead placement a little more as being top mounted if i dont route the lead over the battery (instead of along side it as i planned) i can see the battery lead in the top of the FPV feed. I include pics of how i planned to route it but then changed to remove the battery leads from view. and also added a pic of the long r-line S2 550mAh, which i expected to see the end of the battery in the camera view but didnt, and again had to run the battery lead across the top otherwise the lead would have been in view for this battery too.
Odd thing with the motors though. 2 of the motors have 24awg wire and the other 2 have 26awg wire. the odd thing is the insulation is very thick compared to others so the total diameter of the 26awg on these is as thick as the 24awg like on other motors like the T-Motor F1103
Weight According to my cheap digital scale:
Dry Weight: 52.2 grams
Flight Weight: 82.5 grams (w/ 2S 450mAh Battery)
Flight Weight: 84.5 grams (w/ 2S R-Line 550mAh Battery)
Motor Test:
First Flight (Tattu 2S 450mAh) /w Runcam 3 Audio
Tattu 2S R-Line 550mAh /w Runcam 3 Audio
how did you fix the no gyro/acc issue? im having the same problem with the same AIO and cant arm the quad. Thanks
You listed 3s 550 in the build - did you run it on a 3s?
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how did you fix the no gyro/acc issue? im having the same problem with the same AIO and cant arm the quad. Thanks
I still get the issue intermittently but when i couldn't get it to initialise at all, i dipped a flux paste brush into Isopropyl alcohol (isopropanol) and vigurously cleaned all over the board, after i did it it started working again, but every now and again it does it, and i power cycle and it works again. May have just been a fluke but its always a good idea to give a board a good cleaning if having any issues. I once had a GT-M2.5 that i was repairing previously and had some odd video noise i couldnt get rid of, i cleaned everything with the same method and cleaned up the video perfectly. These are what i use: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32336236308.html?spm You could probably shop around on there for the cheapest price though. Here's a search: https://www.aliexpress.com/premium/Solder-Flux-Paste-Brush.html?d=y&origin=y&catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20210514093027&SearchText=Solder%20Flux%20Paste%20Brush
thanks heaps will give it a go! nice build I'm pretty much doing the same build the mamba 1103 12000kv
sure, let me know if it helps, at least ill know if it was a fluke or not thanks
No unfortunately it didnt work. Looks like a faulty board. Thanks for your help though.
Well thats a shame, I suppose since its faulty you might as well de-solder everything and plug it in to betaflight as just the board on its own and see what happens, or have you even soldered anything yet?
Yeah i have de-soldered the RX and VTX, still same issue. I even de-soldered the motors and still the same problem. Hoping supplier can offer replacement or refund
supplier ended up giving me a replacement.
Thats good, i purchased mine on aliexpress from a seller called Sparkhobby Store and they wouldnt even reply to me. Couldnt open a dispute as i had it over 2 weeks before the rest of the components came so i could actually build and notice the problem