2.5" Tadpole

By Chevro on Oct 30, 2021

4  105  3

I'm new to the hobby and was getting tired of toothpick style frames with expensive and fragile aio boards that burn up easily and were hard to mount aftermarket vtxs and receivers to. I had pretty good luck with my larva X and got 50+ flights out of it, after my third aio board, one warranteed and one purchased. I decided to upgrade after breaking a lot of stuff. I liked the way the larva x flew but it was a little light and was hard to fly under stuff. I wanted a stack setup, with separate boards that you can replace inexpensively. I also wanted to use the same spare parts I had for my larva x. Thats when I found the tadpole frame. It looked a little heavier and provided much more protection and room for mounting electronics. My favorite type of flying is a combination of flow, cinematic and freestyle flying so I wanted stable electronic with a capacitor, a good vtx and antenna, a strong and light frame able to take some crashes, while still being light and agile enough for acrobatic stunts.

I used all off the shelf components and I planned on reusing some spare parts from the larva x, but I ended up only using the propellers, lol. I do have a complete set of larva x motors and a camera as spares though. I redrilled the 16x16 stack holes so they were centered in the frame because the motor wires were too short to reach the rear motor plugs. I also needed to carve away the top plate a little bit so the rear stack bolts can protrude into the area where the top plate was. I didnt want to grind down my bolts, and this seems like it might provide an added benefit of not letting the bolts rack too far forward or backwards in a crash. The 16v 470 capacitor is soldered on the esc at the battery leads and is nestled in between the top plate cutout so it is prevented from moving around too much. I've crashed it about 4 times in mild crashes and no damage so far other than chewed up props. The antenna mount is pretty slick too. My antenna had a very slender wire so I put about 4 or 5 layers of shrink wrap around the wire. When you bolt the top plate on, it pretty firmly grips the wire and holds the antenna in place pretty well. For the 2.4G ELRS antenna I used two zip ties, one sticks the antenna away from the quad a bit, and the other zip tie hooks in little notches on the antenna and around the other zip tie. The ELRS reviever is shrink wrapped and zip tied to the bottom plate behind the stack.

I've been flying a lot with this setup, the 2 blade props have a lower pitch than most of the 3 blade props out there so they are more forgiving to throttle inputs making it easier to fly in tight spaces, and it still has pretty good punch when you need it. I have a bunch of mismatched 3s packs, 2 homemade from 300mah gnb , a 3s made from 3 nanohawk batteries, and an rdq lihv 380 mah, an apex 520 lipo, and gnb lihv 600 and 660 batteries. The 520 and 660 mah weigh 49 grams and are too big for sure, it flys but hovering is around %50-60 throttle. With the 44 gram 600 mah it flys ok with but a little heavy and the flight time is almost 10 minutes of full throttle punching acro flying. With the homemade 300mah 3s I'm getting 3 to 4 minutes of flight time and the 380 mah is closer to 4:30. The GNB lihv 44 gram 600 mah is cool because it weighs about he same as the 42 gram GNB LIHV 450 and 520 mah batteries, so why not fly it? I think the 26 gram 380 mah battery is the one that provides the best performance flying while also providing 4+ minutes of flight time.

Just under 70 grams without battery, under 96 grams with 3s 380 mah battery and under 114 grams with 3s GNB 600 lihv battery.


Part List


Armattan Tadpole 65mm/2.5" Frame (25 builds)

Flight Controller

iFlight SucceX Micro F4 V1.5 Flight Controller - (MPU6000,M3) (3 builds)


iFlight SucceX Micro 15A 2-4S 4-in-1 ESC Dshot600 (M3) - 16x16mm


4 x LIL-FLOATERS 1103 8000kv (4 builds)


HQ Prop Durable Prop T65MM (5CW+5CCW)-Poly Carbonate (31 builds)

FPV Camera

RunCam Racer Nano 2 V2 (2.1mm)

FPV Transmitter

iFlight SucceX Micro Force 5.8GHz 300mW VTX Adjustable (2 builds)


VAS Minion Pro Antenna LHCP 5.8GHz (U.FL)


BetaFPV ELRS Nano Receiver - 2.4GHz (7 builds)


Gaoneng GNB 3S 11.4V HV 520mah LiPo Battery 80C XT30 LiHV (13 builds)


RDQ Series 11.4V 3S 380mAh 60C LiHV Micro Battery - XT30


Jumper T-Lite JP4-in-1 Multi Protocol Open TX 2.4GHz RC Transmitter w/ Hall Gimbals (14 builds)


Skyzone Cobra X V2 Diversity 5.8GHz FPV Goggles w/ 60 FPS DVR (4 builds)


Armattan Tadpole Top Plate Adhesive Foam

Misc Parts

TBS Micro Strap (180 x 13 mm) 4pcs (2 builds)

Radio Module

Happymodel 2.4g ExpressLRS ELRS TX module ES24TX-Lite for T-lite (2 builds)

Battery Charger

iSDT D1 AC 100W DC 250W 1-6S Dual Mode Smart Charger

Soldering Iron

30 Watt Lightweight Soldering Iron (2 builds)
See Site


TBS Sexy Driver Kit (3 builds)
Show stores (4)


Sign in to comment

dyadya   22 days ago  

Hi, I have the same build

But can't connect ELRS

How did you connect it to this controller?

Chevro   10 days ago 

Sorry for the late reply,

I wired the receiver to the flight controller as if it were a crossfire receiver. You need ELRS configurator, and to flash the tx module in the radio and the receiver to the same version of elrs, I think 2.0 now. In ELRS configurator, you can set a password, make sure you set this the same on the tx and rx. As far as i know as long as you have the same version firmware on tx and rx, and the same password, tx and rx bind automatically on powerup. Just make sure you power on the transmitter first, because my particular receiver goes into wifi mode really fast. Hopefully this helps you if you haven't figured it out yet.

dyadya   16 hours ago 

Thank you! Got it.

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