I've been working on some 3D printed frame designs recently, and this is one I came up with for a 3in toothpick build.

My main goal with this frame was to keep the stack mounting separate from the canopy mounting, while trying to keep the weight reasonable. I also wanted to have a place in the canopy to mount a receiver. Lots of canopies don't have a good spot to mount it.

Even though the frame is printed with CF Nylon, the weight comes in at ~22g with the canopy. I think I could save a few grams by reducing the arm thickness. It's very strong and rigid, and the build is pretty light, so it would probably be fine being thinner.

What I learned along the way: With 3d printed designs, you're not going to get close to the rigidity of frames cut from CF sheets by designing a frame in the same way (flat). You have to make use of the flexibility in vertical space that 3d printing offers. This also allows you to come up with interesting ways to mount components where they can be protected by the frame. The biggest issue here is: If you mount the FC inside the frame like I did, it makes it harder to make a frame that can use FCs where the USB port is on the side, because the frame will often get in the way where you can't use the port while the FC is installed (much like a whoop frame)

Build options:

• 2s 1202/1202.5/1103 ~8000kv (I used 1202.5 8000kv motors which work well. The other sizes should be similar in performance. Might be able to use the more common 1202.5 11000-11500kv motors and set a limit of 70% in betaflight. I haven't tried that yet)
• 2s 1204 /1303/1303.5 ~8000kv (I tried this with pyrodrone 1303.5 8000kv motors. It works, but it has less flight time and is a bit heavier due to the motor size. I liked 1202.5 motors better)
• 3s 1204/1303/1303.5 ~5000kv (for more power/heavier builds. I did not try this, but this is a common setup for more powerful toothpicks)

I wanted a HD toothpick to fly around the back yard. I also wanted low amp draw so I could use two 1s batteries from my whoop which have bt2.0 connectors . So the build I've gone with is 2s, 1202.5 8000kv motors, and using HDZero. I have also flown it with a naked vista using a linear antenna, which added 6g to the build. I don't have the walksnail system, but I did design the canopy so that it should fit it based on measurements I've found. I imagine it would work pretty well on 3s.

Info about the Frame:

• Weight (w/canopy):: 22g
• Mounting hardware: m1.4 screws for canopy and bottom cover. m2 bolts for FC/VTX mounting. m2 bolts for motors
• VTX Compatibility: HDZero Whoop and Whoop Lite, Naked Vista, Analog with 25x25 mounting. (Should accomodate walksnail vtx, but I haven't tested it since I don't have one)
• FC Compatibility: Designed for 12a whoop style FCs with the USB port pointing down. May have trouble plugging into the USB port with ones where it is on the side. It can probably be done if you get a USB cable with an extra long tip.
• The FC sits down inside the frame and is very protected. The VTX mounts above and fits under the canopy.

Info about 2s HDZero build:

• Weight: 66g dry (72g with naked vista using linear antenna)
• Flight time:: I get about 5.5min of flight time just cruising around on two 1s Tattu r-line 500mah lipos. Less if doing acro.
• You can see that my battery lead allows connecting two 1s lipos. This was so I could re-use existing whoop batteries I had. You could solder on an xt30 and use regular 2s or 3s batteries.

Note: I also included a couple photos of a build with the 1303.5 motors and naked vista that I tried just to show how the vista fits. These are the photos with the blue and orange pyrodrone motors

I'm working on a version that should keep the props out of view. I'd also like to make a 4in version.

If anyone is interested in this frame, let me know.