AOS LR5 - Freestyle/long range V2
By Vincent12FPV on Dec 07, 2022
After a first build a bit heavy for that frame, here is my second version of the build. I only changed the motors and the Stack to a AIO but it is now perfect !
Now there is still enough punch for freestyle and there is a much better autonomy ! I can easily fly freestyle for 4min with a 4s 1300mAh and do a 15minutes cruising with a 4000mAh Li-Ion batterie.
I also updated the bottom plate that I've made by hand to a CNC machined one ! It looks so much better !
Photos
Part List
Show stores (8)Guides & Reviews
AirbladeUAV has done it again and this time they've brought long range to the 5" class! Based on the popular Transformer Mini, the new Transformer 5" Ultralight adopts a lot of the same design philosophies with larger props and more payload capacity. It can fly upwards of 20 minutes on a 4 cell Li-Ion battery pack and in ideal conditions it's got a range of over 4 to 5 miles. In this guide I'll walk..
Read more
With the release of the DJI FPV Drone cinematic FPV has become a lot more accessible, but you certainly don't want to crash a $750 drone! The QAV-CINE Freybott is a compact, lightweight cinematic FPV drone that can take a hit and keep going. It's a lot safer to fly indoors and around people. With a naked GoPro or the SMO 4k you can capture some great stabilized footage. In this guide I'll show you..
Read more
Nice Build!! By any chance do you have a CAD file for the bottom plate. I just broke mine and you have a great idea about in creating that part. I was thinking about making one too. Thanks!
Hi yes, you can find it here : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5915068
Thanks you very much!!!! I am going to 3D print one in the meantime and get it cut in Carbon Fiber later.
I would strongly encourage you to not try it with plastic... this part doesn't take some mechanical stress 😬 it will probably fly very poorly with a plastic version.
I totally agree with you but believe it or not the 3D printed part I used is a lot stiffer than the 1.5mm carbon fiber plate with countersunk screws. This is only temporary until I get one cut with 2.5mm carbon fiber. I did a test flight today and it performed perfectly. It did so well that I replaced all the bottom plates with a 3D printed version that is 3mm thick because I was also able tighten the screws more than I could with the carbon fiber plates. Lesson learned, DO NOT use countersink 1.5mm carbon fiber. You are better of using button head screws instead. I did all this last night, so I did not have the pleasure of using the bottom plate that you designed. Once again, thank you very much for sharing!
your build look super clean ! I use my design to get the battery under the drone that why i stick to countersink screw 😉