Nothing like starting the new year with a new setup to fly.
Just an introduction. Will post an indepth evaluation of the frame soon including a video. The Nostal series of frames I am designing is aimed towards micro quad pilots that just want:
- a little more durability especially for crashing on concrete.
- Top-mount battery to avoid damaging the battery (something I noticed with flying toothpicks for a while now is that in a crash, the battery is kinda just exposed).
- a little more weight for freestyle.
I am hoping to achieve BabyApe type of stability with the added durability of double braced arms like the THFS/ HX115 LR/ BabyHawk 2 frames. So far, with 100+ flights and 70% of crashes being concrete collisions, I have not broken anything. I assume that is from my type of flying - which is quite docile - so I will be trying my best to switch to more aggressive flying to give a broader evaluation if this is suitable for its purpose.
I've updated the Nostal v3.2 frame with a few changes in mind:
- Front space to allow a 14mm camera to be mounted on 3D printed brackets that attach to the standoffs. Will have options for a fixed angle (for Caddx Ant Lite) and adjustable camera mounts (for 14mm x 14mm cameras that have mounting holes).
- Longer middle section (specifically on the front) to make space for future mounts for Runcam Thumb Mounts while also holding a 450-550mah battery.
- Thicker frame ( v3.2 had 1.5, current v3.3 frame on hand is 2.7mm thick. Will settle for 2mm for 1s. 2.5mm for 2-3s).
- Different versions available depending on weight limits and durability required by the pilot (Will explain futher on another future article).
Interms of specs, most parts are different from my Nostal v3.2 build (since it is meant for 1s only and V3.3 is for more powerful setups). I am using a NamelessRC AIO 12a board with Bluejay PH90 esc firmware. Yes, it is different from the default firmware because the default firmware made my escs overheat and luckily I found a post (https://github.com/jflight-public/jesc/issues/6) that gave a couple of solutions. It is using Gemfan 3016 and 1103 8000kv HGLRC motors but I believe these are hard to source so probably just stick with any 1202.5/1104/1103/1303 set of motors that are available. I am using a fixed camera mount since I am using a Caddx Ant Lite and I am still using the OVX300 VTX which seems to be working great for 200+ flights. Lastly, I am using BetaFPV 2400RX Lite ELRS Rx with a mini immortal T antenna and a Tattu R-line 550mah 2s battery. I chose a bigger battery for the weight and the 6-7 min flight time is just a bonus to me. It has a 91g AUW with the components mentioned. Configuration and example PIDS are shown in the pictures.
Honestly impressed with how well this thing flies. The PID could use a little more adjusting but I am happy with the way this thing flies as of right now. Tracks well, allows me to fo my type of freestyle which is just simple flips and dives (I'm limited to the space I have - also why I only fly 1-2s).
Will not yet release any files for this as I am already done with v3.4 which has changes that should further the capabilities and durability of the frame. Will CNC and test v3.4 within the month if I feel like its decent enough to release.
Photos
Part List
Show stores (11)
that strap is a cool idea that I will have to steal from you! thanks 😊
how much camera angle can you get on this frame? i would love to build on this frame
When/if you release the files you should also contact cncdrones.com. That seems to be the main place people in the US order "custom" frames from. Great design like all your stuff. and that video on designing double arm frames sounds really interesting as well. and after looking at the frame some more the only change I could think of quickly was maybe making the motor protection spikes a bit wider since they seem to be breaking off fairly quickly. But that may have been your intent and I'm sure you've already considered all this as thorough as you tend to be. thanks again for all your awesome designs. PS did you ever consider a brace between the arms like the betafpv 115 lr? I'm sure if they had it there it was for a good reason.
I live on the other side of the world but I'll make sure these files are available to anyone to modify/cnc and yeah I'll reach out to them for sure.
Thanks! I just noticed that many well performing frames like the AOS, Sonicare, and some EMAX frames do have good frame resonance. I forgot where I heard this but the double arm design "shortens the arm length" (technically one of the 2 is shorter and the other could stay the same) which helps reduce lower frequencies which are harder to filter. Its also really good for resisting torsional/twisting frequencies and have better resistance to breaking in a crash. I have a few designs surrounding that concept and I'll probably release a BabyHawk II - type frame the same time I release the Nostal series.
Good eye! Flying over concrete, I knew that regardless of my arm end geometry, it will slowly chip off. I decided to make this current version have smaller spikes in hopes to later remove them and have replaceable carbon fiber arm ends - like specifically a small (1.5mm to 2.mm) carbon fiber plate that attaches to the motor screws that can be removed once its degraded enough. Not sure why designers haven't tried that but I haven't tested its effects on the motor sharing those same mounting screws - it could very well not be a good idea but I'll have to test it soon. The last version of Nostal actually gives options whether you want 2 spikes (perpendicular to each other) or only 1 spike. And yeah, beefed those up too. Will release files really soon, just gotta finish my first wave of quizzes this term. Thanks again for the kind comments!
I did have those in previous designs (and the last version of the Nostal frame does have those options) but I can't verify as of right now if they have any significant effects. I had some initial assumptions about it but my results weren't consistent.
Interesting design and cool video - once more I realize, I need more training...much more. Maybe I should consider something with 2S, next...
But as a DJI-user, weight will be critical, I guess.
Your BF settings are sick, especially the PIDs!
Thank you! Planning to upload a video on how to design double-braced arm frames (I call it that) cause its a little more involved. That video will also be featuring this frame and changes I want to make.
I'm just used to smaller places cause I only get to fly here at home. Heads from infinity loops did say mastering tighter locations will help you do better in wide open areas.
2s is probably limited to around 100g (I plan to test that by using an old Caddx Turtle V2 thats 10g). If your setup goes above that, perhaps go to 3s?
Thanks! still working on making those PIDs better but for now they're pretty good.
Guides & Reviews
AirbladeUAV has done it again and this time they've brought long range to the 5" class! Based on the popular Transformer Mini, the new Transformer 5" Ultralight adopts a lot of the same design philosophies with larger props and more payload capacity. It can fly upwards of 20 minutes on a 4 cell Li-Ion battery pack and in ideal conditions it's got a range of over 4 to 5 miles. In this guide I'll walk..
Read more
With the release of the DJI FPV Drone cinematic FPV has become a lot more accessible, but you certainly don't want to crash a $750 drone! The QAV-CINE Freybott is a compact, lightweight cinematic FPV drone that can take a hit and keep going. It's a lot safer to fly indoors and around people. With a naked GoPro or the SMO 4k you can capture some great stabilized footage. In this guide I'll show you..
Read more
Frame kinda looks like a BetaFPV HX115 LR frame
most double braced frames do hahaha but I optimized some of the geometry to increase strength
The HX115LR is a 1.5mm bottom plate with 1mm top plate so much lighter and pretty sure the arms are a bit stronger with the extra structure but would not go above 1202.5 on 1.5mm due to in flight flex.
I had a 2mm version milled last year and have run 1103's and now with 1203pro and am still getting zero flex in the frame during flight.
I say all this to say I'd bet you could still save some weight on your frame and not lose any rigidity or strength in the process..
the Carbon Fiber sheets that I use aren't the best - meaning that it has a slightly less carbon content and more resin content which isn't ideal.
Aside from strength and flight flex, you still have to consider frame resonances which is the main issue my suboptimal CF sheets are facing (more resin = less stiff = unwanted vibrations), thus the need to adjust the geometry and thickness. If these suboptimal sheets that I am using works, most likely better CF sheets will work better (that plus I'm sure people can and probably will decide for themselves how thick they want the CF sheet to be)
that being said, I did have a version of this frame with arms that is closer to a square cross-section instead of the usual rectangular one which I found performed better at a lower total weight