UMMA 95 Ultimate is a next generation and a tribute build to what Ummagawd started. The Og naked gopro 6 drone that opened up numerous creative possibilities to us FPV pilots and also gave manufacturers a concept to start developing fpv frames around the Naked Gopro concepts.

My first ever FPV frame was a 95x v1 by Betafpv and i remember how much fun it was flying around. I later converted it to pusher configuration, 3d printed a x-plate to mount the betafpv naked GoPro 6 and the Battery and had a lot of fun creating professional content.
I was eventually introduced to many other frames due hype on youtube etc, i developed a hunger for making something better and with longer flight times. after a lot of tinkering and shifting my electronics into newer frames, i finally settled for GepRC cinelog 35 (like everyone) and i loved it...
Deep within, i always wished the cinelog 35 was smaller. cl35 being a bigger whoop, its loud, grabs attention of crowd, being heavy - it gets unstable with its own turbulent trust when flying in tiny spaces, I finally decided to make something much smaller.

Here comes the idea when i saw my old 95x v1 frame lying around in a corner. I decided to build the OG naked UMMA 95 with a hero 6. after a few commercial shoots with this setup, i realized what was wrong with this setup and what i was missing.
the major thing that was wrong is the sensor twists the flex cable that mounts on the motherboard 90 degrees and kinda puts stress over the flex making it to fail at one point. (early signs of flex damage are purple/pink artifacts in your video - sudden purple screen / purple lines etc)
Also, the most important thing i was missing was the ability to crop the video in any aspect ratios me or my client needs. Keep in mind, Its not worth using the gopro 9 / 10 for this build due to this very reason.

I then decided to make the Umma 95 a "Ultimate Umma 95" using the Hero 11
before cutting the gopro open to make it naked, update the labs firmware, set the wifi to 2.4ghz, set everything to auto (because you'll most probably use this for indoor outdoor shots), Hypersmooth off, 4k 8:7 50/60 fps or 5k 8:7 25/30fps

Below are the links to items that will work with some modifications

1. the x plate sold by Ummagawd for naked hero 6. the motherboard of 11 will be mounted front side back below this x-plate. you need to keep the two screw holes intact (of the 3d printed lens mount) and cut the 3rd hole (refer the images)
   https://ummagawd.com/products/umma85x-carbon-top-plate?_pos=1&_sid=3912ffc5a&_ss=r

2. you will need assorted screws to mount so im hoping you have them in your spare screws supplies.
   you can order a couple of these
   https://ummagawd.com/products/umma85-umma95-hardware-pack?pr_prod_strat=copurchase&pr_rec_id=ef0479c5c&pr_rec_pid=4785938202718&pr_ref_pid=6555944353886&pr_seq=uniform

3. this is the most important part that will allow you to mount the lens 90 degrees oriented from the motherboard. originally made for hero 8 but the plug etc are common for 9/10/11 and ibelieve for 12 as well.
   https://ummagawd.com/products/futile-innovations-hero-8-90-lens?_pos=3&_sid=3912ffc5a&_ss=r

4. You will also need to fabricate your own button & LED pcb to Turn on and Rec the gopro (i will attach a pcb wiring diagram for 11). you can connect those wires to this pcb or frabricate one yourself
   https://ummagawd.com/products/futile-innovations-external-button?_pos=6&_sid=3912ffc5a&_ss=r

5. the 95x v1 frame. you gotta search where its still in stock.

3D prints required

1. You will need everything from this list Except the lens mounts and the motherboard mount (Print everything in tpu)
   https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4376043
2. You will only need the lens mount from this link by @BlinKFPVOfficial. yo also need to modify it slightly. the rear two legs need to be further moved back 10mm in order to align the lens ribbon cable in line with the 90 degree flex pcb
   https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4501041
3. My custom 3d prints to mount the motherboard on the X-Plate (will update soon)

Build is fairly straight forward and assuming you have the quad ready in pusher config, you can start assembling.
Starting with the motherboard, solder the wires as stated below. to secure the solders, you can protect them with UV solder mask or use a t7000 (black color heat sensitive rubber glue thats used by phone repair guys to stick the screens after repair - this works really well).

Now to mount the 90 degree extension board, it fits like it was suppoed to. to secure it not avoid accidental disconnects, ive anchored it using the wire and solder everything to all ground connections making everything solid. Also, use a 41mm wire as wifi antenna and not the wifi antenna provided on this Extension board (after you anchor this board to ground pads on gopro pcb, the wifi antenna on this extension pcb will also be grounded - if you connect this antenna to gopro motherboard antenna, you may short the wifi chip)

do a dry fit on the x plate and see how much clearance you have to stick the button pcb (best place you can stick the button pcb is over the sd card holder)
you can then cut the wires according to length and stick the button pcb on the sd card holder. route the wires neatly and secure them with t7000.

Now you can move to make the cooling system for gopro. I've used an old fan from zenmuse x3 gimbal. The heatsink is from an assorted pack of heatsinks for Raspberry Pi. One of the heat covers the main processor precisely and can be fixed using the thermal glue. I have covered the top of the heatsink using a masking tape (will explain why in a sec. the fan sits sighty beside this heatsink in a slanted angle and blows air over the silver chip and other black chip. i've also made a cowl around this fan and the only way for the air to escape is thorugh the main heatsink making everything cool. this works wonders and ive tested this setup on my bench with record time of 15mins. After 15 mins, the setup was hot to touch but the camera didnt overheat or switch off automatically after 15 mins (as i stopped the recording considering not anyways wont fly more than 7 mins). I am very proud of this cooling contraption..

Once you have your motherboard ready with Switch Pcb and extension pcb, you can assemble eveything together and you're almost ready to fly. once everything's assembled, do a bench test and make sure everything's working fine.

Now assemble the camera on the 95x frame. Make sure the heat sink dose not rest on the 95x frame and you might need to use 4 spacers in each corner over the dampeners to raise the camera assembly over the drone.

APPRECIATE WHAT YOU'VE BUILT....
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