Hi, yes those motors.. it's been a journey for me with that brand. I usually get these for the low price point, but I agree, I've also broken these before. I'll keep you updated how these smaller ones hold up. I already have some 2203.5s in my shopping basket for a freestyle (wide X) version of this frame. I found one on your website, but it's more like a deadcat shape (also more open, not box design, but rather..."hour glass" looking).

The one I really want has no files on thingyverse... it's a Freestyle design. Maybe I'll try remixing something, or check out your discord.

Thanks again, great design, I'll put updates on here, and try to get a video up too.

I do have the 2203.5 on my newly built 6" LongRanger - i'm also curious to see how well they perform over time.
Regarding the design missing on Thingiverse, which one is it? I'll gladly add it then. And indeed: f you're on Discord, just hop on my server, would love to chat! https://discord.gg/4SxWCwxq6t

Yes, those long range projects on your page are pretty cool. I love the forest video of that one (I think the deadcat design).

The one (I call it the hourglass, I think you refer to it as "open box") frame I would like to try next is this one shown here https://www.eyeflydesigns.com/#tubwidex
(tubular wide X..?). It looks symmetrical and perfect for freestyle, not sure about the rigidity, but if it's anything close to the full box design, it'll be great. I think it's either 4 inch, or 6 inch... I'm thinking the 4 inch version might be more fun for freestyle with the lighter motors.

Yes, this version is indeed great for freestyle. The only downside is that it takes a bit longer to build the base frame compared to the TrueX-version i've built after - so in case of damage to the frame switching them out takes a little longer. To further improve on this, i've built the "Wide-X box" series - there you have all your electronics on a standalone cage that you can easily switch over to a new core frame. However i agree that the hourglass-style frame looks nicer :-)

Anyway, for the hourglass "WideX" version i do have a 4", 5", 6" design ready. I've just uploaded the 4" version for you here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6481335

Thank you, I'm looking forward to this one, and as usual --> I'll post the build when it's done

I have a load of LannRC motors, I've never broken one- but I'm not a bando basher, I crash into trees and grass mostly.

not sure why you have to use edgeTX...but I am using a radiomaster boxer as an edgeTX transmitter

I added a complete list of parts at the bottom of the post, hope that helps

my bad i meant expresslrx

like an expresslrs reciever onboard

sorry for the confusion

All i see is the flight controller, motors, and props

my goodness i am blind i found it what is the total price including batteries?

No problem, glad to help

So the price is not super accurate, as deals often fluctuate, but I'll try (I try ordering from stores like Pyrodrone, but often times just find better deals on AliExpress...😐)

• FC/ESC around $50
• Motors ~ $40
• Video transmitter ~ $20
• receiver ~ $10
• camera ~ $15
• frame parts (tubes, glue and plastic) ~ $10

All in all I would say around $150, but somethings to keep in mind are that I like waiting for deals and I often buy in bulk, which can help pushing the price even further. I know the video transmitter for example has gone up in price since I bought this one, but the receivers can be purchased in bulk for as low as ~ $6.-

My current favorite batteries are GNBs...but I did the math the other day and actually found Tattus to be around the same price and sometimes even cheaper. CNHLs are the cheapest and I have some...but they are not my favorite. So batteries are adding another 15 to 20 bucks, depending on how much flight time you're looking for.... honestly I've yet to run down a battery on this rig. So far I get close to ten minutes of flight time with batteries still popping back to 3.6 even 3.8 Volts per cell after unplugging. I'm using 4S around 850mAh

yes, I'll post something, it's just been raining like crazy over here and I also have a dayjob, but if all works out, I should be able to put something up this week

Happy to hear you like it, I'm also working on a freestyle version of similar design. Probably another re-mix of one of Nic's concepts from Eyefly

Hi, no problem. To be honest, I've only been in the hobby since fall last year, so I'm not in any way a "long term authority" on the subject, just an avid builder with a humble background in electrical engineering.

Now with regards to your questions:
I'm not a racer, but from what I've seen on YouTube (Alex Vanover, Min ChanKim and the likes), this build seems to check all the boxes. Let me explain
--> easy to replicate, due to low frame cost - check
--> super stiff and rigid - check
--> very light and responsive - check
--> true X geometry - check
--> also it's analog

I tried this with a 3S and 3 inch props, since I didn't have 5 inch t-mounts when I finished building and it was already so powerful I put an expo on my throttle to be able to sort of "tame" the thrust ratio.

To me it's a pretty good candidate for racing, but again, I'm not an expert.

With regards to 3D prints --> everything is in the description, with the exception of the capacitor protector I re-mixed, and they are all on thingieverse.

For private messaging you are welcome to use rotorbuilds messaging service and if need be we can figure something out in addition.