65mm Racing Whoop

By Freshbread on Jan 30, 2024

3  0  0

It's January 2024. The current meta for 65mm whoop racing is to get super lightweight builds. My last build I posted here was 2 years ago and they weighed in around 20-21 grams. This new build comes in at 17.84g which is around 15% decrease in weight. You can get lighter if you disregard the LED harness (around 17.5g), but what's the fun in that?

Camera mount I'm using was designed by brighFive, but is almost identical to the Orangestuff mount. Alternatively, you can use the TinyWhoop Pound Mount but it will weigh 0.5g more. I've also noticed the Happymodel Cross F4 board is discontinued, so maybe wait to see what new products they release.

I used the onboard blackbox to get the best tune/filters for this whoop using the instructional videos from Chris Rosser and Basement Tuning using PID Toolbox.

Note for motors: I've been running the webleedfpv Slashers (24,500kv) but they slip motor shafts very quickly, so I do not recommend those.

Step 1: Quality control check the flight controller. Plug into Betaflight and verify the accelerometer, gyro, and escs are functioning correctly.
Step 2: Remove motor plugs on board and motors, and solder BT2.0 pigtail.
Step 3: Update ELRS firmware. May require version flash to 2.5.2 first, then the latest 3.x.x
Step 4: Apply Bluejay esc firmware via esc-configurator website. I recommend version 0.16 48khz, which is found on their github page.
Step 5: Solder LED harness to the underside of the flight controller.
Step 6: Solder OVX300 to the FC, and use double sided 3m mounting tape to place vtx on the underside of the FC, then solder camera to the top pads.
Step 7: Update OVX300 to latest openvtx firmware via website, then copy/paste vtx table into Betaflight.
Step 8: Apply all necessary Betaflight settings (i.e. bidirectional dshot, ELRS 500hz preset, rates, etc.)
Step 9: Build the whoop and enjoy. Since the USB on this FC will stick down into battery tray, you will have to cut 2 FC gummies in half and place those onto the frame standoffs first before placing the FC onto the frame





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