AOS 3.5 V5 6S

By RedFrog on Mar 23, 2024

3  0  3

My first build :)

I really enjoyed the building process - so much so I just ordered a 5" frame to have a go at the supposed best in class size wise

I only flew tiny whoops till now and also loads of sim time so was looking for my next step up - I got hold of a T-Motor AIO and 6S 1604 motors on offer so decided to have a go at building my first drone - using nothing else but the brand new AOS 3.5 V5 frame.

Original plan was to go for a Walksnail Avatar Pro VTX - but when all put together with the TPU parts that came witht the frame I got to 194g so a rethink was needed as I want to be able to keep it as a sub250 to sometimes fly in urban parks.

Decided to go for a Nano v3 instead to shave nearly 15g (also allows to get rid of a BEC as the T-motor AIO only offers 3.3V & 5V)
Also found out that you do not need per say the 'heavy' tpu mounts for the antennas so followed the advice and tied them to the arms

Next assembly I realised the nano v3 vtx is using M3 for the 20x20 mounts - so frame would need drilling in quite a few places to accomodate...
Also center of gravity was always too far back once the battery was on - and this meant ditching the xt30 holder to move the battery forward. I was already kind of committed to the xt30 holder as used to support the capacitor assembly so decision needed...

Last ditch at reviewing other mounting options and realised that by putting the vtx at the bottom of the stack using the 25.5x25.5 mounts - with some nylock golden nuts and then the AIO on gromets on top would just fit and still provide plenty of aiflow (gap is 6-8mm). Just needs adding a TPU 'strap shield' attached to the stand offs to allow to all fit nicely using the 20mm stack screws. Putting it all in the middle helps with weight as shorter motor cables and also move the center of gravity towards the front.

Now the weight is down to 164.3g without battery - or just over 250g with a 550MaH Tattu battery (the smallest 6s I have)

I want to add a skid plate and some arm protectors so sub250 would mean a 450mAh battery (just ordered a couple)

With those extra TPU bits on and a 650mAh battery - the drone is 283.4g and now nicely balanced -- this will likely be my go to config when I fly out of town.

Shout out to Joshua Bardwell, Oscar Liang and Chris Rosser for infectiously sharing their passion - I feel I am embarquing on a very special journey :)

Also Lee (3daqua on ebay UK) - ready to 3d print anything - very good quality / price / turnaround

Will post flight times with the different battery config as soon as the British weather calms down a bit -- for now, back to practising with my suddenly very boring whoop ;)



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BigDan1190   10 days ago  

Hi, please can I ask why you chose to put the VTX on the bottom rather than the FC? Usually FC is mounted first and VTX on top. Cheers, Dan

RedFrog   10 days ago 

Hi, if you put the FC at the bottom you have no way to secure the stack screws against the frame to stop vibrations as you are tightening against the grommets of the FC and there is no space for another set of nuts with the 20mm stack screws - and not much space left anyway when you add the strap in. The case of the VTX is a hard shell so I could tighten against that and then have solid stack screws with the FC's grommets working as expected on top.

BigDan1190   8 days ago 

Ok thank you. My build is going to be analogue for now and then upgrade to the V3 nano in a month or 2 so I wanted to know if i needed to leave slack for the cables or not incase the FC needed to go on top. Cheers for your quick answer.

RedFrog   10 days ago  

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